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Solvent Leaking Out of LCR 9mm Where Tip of Barrel Meets Frame

This is a discussion on Solvent Leaking Out of LCR 9mm Where Tip of Barrel Meets Frame within the Ruger Double Action forums, part of the Pistol & Revolver Forum category; I know...this sounds strange but when I clean my LCR 9mm, it takes about a week for solvent NOT to appear around the front of ...


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Old May 8th, 2015, 05:53 PM   #1
 
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Solvent Oozing Out of LCR 9mm Where Tip of Barrel Meets Frame

I know...this sounds strange but when I clean my LCR 9mm, it takes about a week for solvent NOT to appear around the front of the barrel. I will wipe it off twice daily but it still takes a week for the solvent to stop oozing. The solvent is not coming from the inside of the barrel but from where the tip of the barrel meets the frame. See photo and look at the dark shiny area at the tip. After cleaning my firearms (for the last 50 years), I thoroughly wipe them off.

I sent the LCR back to Ruger because it was wildly inaccurate at 15 feet - I would have been better off just throwing the revolver itself at the target. Perfect now after repair. Ruger also replaced the barrel. In addition, I complained about the creeping out of the solvent. Unfortunately, when I received the 9mm back, it was still oozing.

So I sent it back again and received a very nice phone call from a team leader saying that this was normal. He explained that since the barrel is screwed in, there is enough of a gap for solvent to enter and then come out.

I must admit this is new to me. Anyone else here experience the same thing? Just curious. This does not happen with my LCR 38 for, as the team leader further explained, the 38 barrel is inserted into an aluminum frame. As the metal is softer than the steel frame of the 9mm, the 38 has a tighter fit and solvent cannot enter.

Oh well, it shoots great and I really enjoy it!

BTW, the photo shows how I normally store it in the safe with the barrel at about 45 up. I also tried placing the barrel down at 45 and got the same pattern of solvent. Be aware I do NOT immerse the entire LCR in solvent - just the normal wet patch and a bore brush.

UPDATE: Thanks to homesteader for the semantic help. The original use of 'leak' could be construed as glop pouring or dripping out. 'Ooze' and 'creep' much better. My original post has been changed accordingly.
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File Type: jpg Ruger LCR 9mm mine Solvent2.jpg (341.1 KB, 117 views)




Last edited by sunnysw; May 9th, 2015 at 09:56 AM.
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Old May 8th, 2015, 06:20 PM   #2
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Very interesting.
No such problem with my LCR9 or LCR357.
I get a little moisture outside the fire control housing for a few days after cleaning, but I use plenty of Hoppe's #9 in that area and blow it out with compressed air.
I just wipe away the moisture with a tissue and it is not a problem.
The only issue I've had with my LCR9 is the cylinder release button screw backing out.
I put a drop of blue Loctite on the threads and tightened it with the correct allen wrench head.
No more problem.
I have had 7 crimp jumps with LAX reloads, but that is not a problem with the revolver.
I have 1600+ rounds through my LCR9.

......and I love bragging about it......
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Old May 8th, 2015, 06:36 PM   #3
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunnysw View Post
I know...this sounds strange but when I clean my LCR 9mm, it takes about a week for solvent NOT to appear around the front of the barrel. I will wipe it off twice daily but it still takes a week for the solvent to stop leaking. The solvent is not coming from the inside of the barrel but from where the tip of the barrel meets the frame. See photo and look at the dark shiny area at the tip. After cleaning my firearms (for the last 50 years), I thoroughly wipe them off.

I sent the LCR back to Ruger because it was wildly inaccurate at 15 feet - I would have been better off just throwing the revolver itself at the target. Perfect now after repair. Ruger also replaced the barrel. In addition, I complained about the leakage. Unfortunately, when I received the 9mm back, it was still leaking.

So I sent it back again and received a very nice phone call from a team leader saying that the leakage was normal. He explained that since the barrel is screwed in, there is enough of a gap for solvent to enter and then leak out.

I must admit this is new to me. Anyone else here experience the same leakage? Just curious. This does not happen with my LCR 38 for, as the team leader further explained, the 38 barrel is inserted into an aluminum frame. As the metal is softer than the steel frame of the 9mm, the 38 has a tighter fit and solvent cannot enter.

Oh well, it shoots great and I really enjoy it!
.
Boy that's a strange one.... Try less solvent and/or an air compressor. Wow.
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Old May 8th, 2015, 08:55 PM   #4
 
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Does the leaking fluid evaporate like most solvents would or does it remain "wet" like oil? If it's oil, I'd suggest warming the barrel with either a robust range visit or a controlled application of heat, possibly a heat gun, and see if you can wick the oil or grease out of the barrel assembly.

Most solvents I've used will evaporate, but can dilute grease and oils that can ooze out of seams. Some solvents are fine oils that won't evaporate and will creep (i.e. Kroil). If you eliminate the "oozing" oil and use a solvent that evaporates your issue will likey be eliminated. Just like a drop on the garage floor, it only takes a tiny amount of oil to make a mess.

Good luck.
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Old May 8th, 2015, 10:40 PM   #5
 
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Thank you (seriously) for describing my observation better than I did: 'creep' is a more accurate term than 'leaking'. The barrel tip area does not evaporate by itself - it remains 'wet'. I just keep wiping it off twice a day for a week until it stops as I stated in the original post.

When cleaning, I use Hoppes#9 first with a patch, then Remington Bright Bore with a bore brush and finishing with Rem Oil (drying the barrel each time with a clean patch). The Rem Oil is used sparingly but the solvents are tough to control.

What is creeping out is probably a mixture of the solvents with a touch of the Rem Oil although I suspect the Bright Bore is the real culprit. It has never been a problem with any of my firearms until the LCR 9mm. Just a silly cosmetic quirk.

Thanks for the reply!

Last edited by sunnysw; May 8th, 2015 at 10:45 PM.
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Old May 9th, 2015, 06:43 AM   #6
 
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You may be dealing with remnants of lubricant Ruger used to assemble the "shroud" to the barrel, so it could take a while to disperse. Not harmful but annoying I agree.
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Old May 9th, 2015, 07:02 AM   #7
 
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I, too, live in the southwest and have found that since our humidity rate is so low that using any kind of oil in the barrel is not needed. I've been doing it that way now for years and have NEVER experienced any kind of rust. Try skipping the oil in the barrel and see if that helps the situation any.

BTW, I stopped using oil in my barrels on the advice of a custom rifle builder and his team of F-Class shooters. These guys use rifles to shoot in 1,000 yard competitions that typically cost anywhere from $3k to $7k so I felt comfortable in taking their advice. No one would take any unnecessary risks with rifles that cost so much.
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Old May 9th, 2015, 07:12 AM   #8
 
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Use a good bit less lube.
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Old May 9th, 2015, 07:30 AM   #9
 
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Maybe I'm not treating them right, but when I clean my LCRs all I do is run a mop with a little Remoil on it through the barrel.

Then put some Remoil on a big patch (for shotgun cleaning) and wipe down the frame around the cylinder and then the ends of the cylinder and finally wipe the end of the muzzle.

Most of the time, this seems like enough. Only if I see lead deposits in the barrel, or serious fouling in the cylinder do I break out the Hoppes 9 and the bore brush.

I just spray the Remoil from an aerosol can onto the mop and the patch -- I don't saturate them with oil, just lightly spayed.

Finally I wipe down of the whole gun with a silicon cloth.

Never is there enough oil or Hoppes to fill the barrel-frame gap or anything like that.

I use the same method on my S&W 642 which has a delicate finish that can be damaged by powder solvents like Hoppes.

My thought is you maybe are using too much solvent and too much oil.
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Old May 9th, 2015, 07:59 AM   #10
 
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I use the following on my field shotguns, sporting shotguns, rifles and handguns:

1- Hoppes # 9
2- CLP
3- Tetra Grease
4- Rem-Oil

The only time that use oil is for my field shotguns when I know they are going to get wet and they do. I place a light coat on the outside of the barrel and block. The grease I use on the pivot points of my SXS and O/U shotguns.

Try using Hoppes # 9 to clean that run a patch of CLP down the barrel using a jag.

I store my firearms in a safe that has a golden rod and a desiccant can. No moisture in that safe. I do wipe down my bedside Beretta 92 with a silicone rag every few days.

Good luck!
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Old May 9th, 2015, 08:20 AM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by bwinters View Post
Use a good bit less lube.
That would be my suggestion too. My LCR is really not hard to clean. Are you shooting lead bullets and getting a lot of fouling or something? Or are you just using all those solvents and lubes because that's just how your are used to cleaning things? If it's just out of habit, changing that would seem the easiest fix.
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Old May 9th, 2015, 10:18 AM   #12
 
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Thanks everyone for the comments!

I had a feeling that when posting this, it would start a dialogue on proper firearm cleaning. Aurora40 is correct that after a while, the personal method of how to clean becomes a habit. I have a routine for each class of firearm I own which works for me. It is just for the LCR 9mm that this oozing has occurred so I will see what changes I can make. In the end, it is just annoying and not that big of a deal. I was just curious if this happens to anyone else.

I must reiterate that that when I finish cleaning, all solvent/oil is thoroughly dried off. No oil in barrel and no 'anything' left 'anywhere' that could affect the primers. Being in the southwest, humidity is low and my safe has desiccant regularly checked, so over-oiling is never needed or done.

But I really enjoy comments from others on cleaning techniques as well as watching youtube and factory videos on methods used. Never too old to learn.

BTW - no lead bullets - just copper jacketed.

Last edited by sunnysw; May 9th, 2015 at 10:21 AM.
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Old May 9th, 2015, 12:45 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by Spike12 View Post
Boy that's a strange one.... Try less solvent and/or an air compressor. Wow.
If you don't have an air compressor use a can of compressed air, aka key board cleaner.
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Old March 15th, 2017, 05:21 PM   #14
 
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Originally Posted by aurora40 View Post
...are you just using all those solvents and lubes because that's just how your are used to cleaning things? If it's just out of habit, changing that would seem the easiest fix.
OP Update: I have refrained from firing my LCR 9mm that often because of the oozing problem. I took the LCR9mm to the range yesterday (feeling guilty as my prior range date for this firearm was 7/5/16) but changed my cleaning chemicals that I now use for all my firearms. I currently use MPro7 for cleaning and BoreTech C4 Carbon Remover for tough deposits. No more Hoppe's 9 and no more Rem Bright Bore. The smell of the Hoppe's was too much for me after all these years.

Guess what? No more oozing! Dry as can be! What a pleasure...

Last edited by sunnysw; March 16th, 2017 at 07:56 AM.
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Old March 15th, 2017, 05:54 PM   #15
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Glad you figured it out.

I never noticed that on the wifes LCR. And Im mostly the feller that cleans it.
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