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M77 trigger

This is a discussion on M77 trigger within the Ruger Bolt Action forums, part of the Rifle & Shotgun Forum category; Hi all. I'm new here and have come to ask the experienced. I am looking at a new M77 II Compact in .243. This will ...


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Old November 22nd, 2006, 09:33 AM   #1
 
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M77 trigger

Hi all. I'm new here and have come to ask the experienced. I am looking at a new M77 II Compact in .243. This will be my first Ruger bolt action. My main concern is the trigger. I don't imagine they are adjustable like the Rem 700 but can they be overhauled to alter pull weight, creep, take-up etc. or is it more reasonable to put in a more custom drop-in trigger? If so what are some suggestions. I don't need a real expensive super tuned benchrest trigger just something to get it around 3 to 3.5 lbs & clean up some of the roughness.

On a side note I noticed on the forum menu there is a catagory for pistols, auto loaders, bolt actions etc. but no board for single shots (#1s, #3s). Am I missing something?

Charlie.



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Old November 22nd, 2006, 11:01 AM   #2
 
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Hey there Charlie... I just purchased a M77R MarkII... I wondered, the same as you... "Can the "non-adjustable" trigger be adjusted...

Here are some things I've found...
http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/ruger77trigger.html
http://www.centerfirecentral.com/77trigger.html

I ended up taking the trigger apart and polished the trigger to sear surface at a 45 degree bevel, as per the later article, and also polished theload bearing surface on the top of the sear. Because this is a hunting rifle, I left the sear depth alone...

The result was 9-8 factory pull to 3-4 pound trigger pull...
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Old November 22nd, 2006, 01:27 PM   #3
 
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Brownells sells a spring that will reduce pull weight, or you can buy an aftermarket trigger such as Timney. The spring is only $3.50, and with a little polishing, as Mr. Nettles mentions above, it will work wonders. A whole lot cheaper than the Timney, but you can adjust the Timney down to as low as you want.
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Old November 22nd, 2006, 04:03 PM   #4
 
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I was curious about the single-shots also...I posted something under "gun stories", I believe...regarding the No.1...
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Old November 22nd, 2006, 06:55 PM   #5
 
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Put your request in the "Suggestions" and I am sure Keith will create one for you guys!
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Old December 5th, 2006, 07:30 PM   #6
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Here's a portion of an email I sent to RNettles:

There are a few "enhancements" I usually do on 77s. First is the trigger. They are the easiest gun on the market to do a nice trigger job without spending big bucks for parts. If you look at the Brownell's schematic http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sch...K+II+Standard+ find part # 48 (sear pivot pin). All you have to do is remove the stock, push this pin out, and remove the sear spring (part# 63). The sear (part # 74) will drop out. Use a muslin buffer with some 550 grit compound and polish the sear step until it looks like chrome. Replace the sear and install a new sear spring with less tension than the factory spring. If you don't have spare springs in your junk box, just order a new factory spring, cut off 2-3 coils and stretch it back to factory length. That's it! Your trigger will be much lighter and very crisp. Trigger pull can be adjusted by installing different tension springs. The system is very safe and stable down to about 2.5 lbs (too light for hunting but nice for the bench). I like to set them at about 3.5 lbs (factory is usually well over 5 lbs and not very crisp).

The next enhancement is floating the barrel. On most guns, this can be an expensive and non-reversible procedure but on a 77, it is very easy, cheap, and totally reversible. Floating the barrel usually tightens groups and makes the gun less fussy with different loads. Here's what you do: Find a common hardware store washer with a hole diameter where the rear stock screw will fit nicely. File the washer down to .020" thickness. Find another piece of flat steel (another washer will do just fine) that is .020" thick and about the same width as the inside slot in the stock right in front of the front stock screw. Place the rear screw through the washer located between the stock and action. Place the front shim on the inside flat area of the stock, just in front of the front stock screw then torque down the stock screws. Note: in a 77, tight stock screws are essential with or without barrel floating. This procedure will "lift" the barrel and action about .020" higher. This is enough to allow a business card to slide between the stock and barrel from the chamber forward, yet not affect function or cosmetics. The barrel is now "floated" and will not touch the stock. If you don't like it, all you have to do is remove the spacers.
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Old December 7th, 2006, 06:59 PM   #7
 
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Well I dove into my M77R MarkII again tonight. I did a little more trigger work, polished the sear step and the trigger step lightly. I left the factory sear sping in and I'll be ordering a lighter one. I also free floated the barrel, as Iowegan suggested, using washers. This is just a test to see if "free float" will improve accuracy. If accuracy worsens, the "free float" is completely reversible. I'll be testing this Sunday and range report to follow...
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Old December 10th, 2006, 03:35 PM   #8
 
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I went to the range today... testing floated barrel vs foreend pressure... using Federal Power-Shok .270 Win 130 grain Soft Points, 3 shot groups with an 85 yard walk to and from the target for barrel cool down.

With the barrel free floated, from recoil lug to muzzel, my groups opened up to 3" to 4" @ 85 yards... After a quick trip home, removed the shims(washers), and back to the range... groups settled back to 3/4" to 1 1/2"... Good enough for me! It may shoot tighter with a higher grade bullet, ballistic tipped, but I am working on a budget here, and $25 for 20 bullets will have to wait.

As a side note, I went with a buddy to his 40 acre property to put out some nuts and corn chips for the deer. We set a empty box on the ground and drove the truck about 250 yards across the feild. I shot once at the box while resting on the side bed of the the truck. We went back to get the box... and there it was... 1/2" right and 2 1/4" low! I am impressed with my new M77R MarkII's accuracy, good enough for a 250 yard deer hunting shot.
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Old December 10th, 2006, 04:28 PM   #9
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RNettles, Sorry about the disappointing results with the FF barrel. Your gun was already very accurate so I had my doubts about improvement. Many of the 77s shoot considerably tighter groups with this technique.
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Old December 10th, 2006, 05:01 PM   #10
 
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Iowegan

RNettles, Sorry about the disappointing results with the FF barrel. Your gun was already very accurate so I had my doubts about improvement. Many of the 77s shoot considerably tighter groups with this technique.
Don't be... It was a great suggestion, and I had nothing to loose and everything to gain! I proved to me that my rifle requires some foreend pressure to begin to group well... As soon as I can get some ballistic tips, I bet it will drop to 1/2" groups. These Soft Points have a blunt nose and aren't aero dynamic at all. But they are cheap!
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Old December 13th, 2006, 11:30 AM   #11
 
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Last night I read an post on the net about the the "middle" screw on the M77... They said not to "honk down" that screw, it messes with the groups... Well I got to thinking and it sure does make sense... so I took the stock off and put the stock back on using the following tightening sequence:
  • Started, but not tighten the recoil lug screw...
  • Started, but not tighten the rear trigger guard screw...
  • Torqued the recoil lug screw to about 35 ftpnds...
  • Held the trigger guard to the rear and tightened the rear trigger guard screw to about 35 ftpnds...
  • Then I started the "middle" screw with Loc-Tite "blue" thread locker, and stopped just as it bottomed into the trigger guard...

It seems that if that middle screw is too tight it puts too much downward pressure on the receiver-barrel interface and induces a "stress" curve or bow into a barrel that has foreend pressure applied... Makes sense, yes? So I am going to give it a try and will post my findings here...
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Old April 10th, 2007, 02:14 PM   #12
 
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I put Timney triggers in all my Ruger MKII's and have never looked back.
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Old May 6th, 2007, 04:54 AM   #13
 
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by fudd

Hi all. I'm new here and have come to ask the experienced. I am looking at a new M77 II Compact in .243. This will be my first Ruger bolt action. My main concern is the trigger. I don't imagine they are adjustable like the Rem 700 but can they be overhauled to alter pull weight, creep, take-up etc. or is it more reasonable to put in a more custom drop-in trigger? If so what are some suggestions. I don't need a real expensive super tuned benchrest trigger just something to get it around 3 to 3.5 lbs & clean up some of the roughness.
Charlie.
If this is a new gun it should have the new LC6 trigger. I have the new compact in 7mm08 and the trigger is sweet. Just over 3# and breaks like glass.[^]
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Old May 6th, 2007, 03:05 PM   #14
 
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I also put Timney triggers into my 77's. I however haven't gotten one of the new LC6 triggers.
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Old May 8th, 2007, 03:53 PM   #15
 
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Thanks Iowegan and Rnettles. I am going to do the suggestions to my ruger m77 tomorrow. I love this gun, but I haven't gotten any better than two inch groups @ 100 yards so far. Hopefully with a better trigger and ff barrel it will get better.
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