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Glass Bedding a Model 77

24K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  RobK 
#1 ·
Thinking of replacing the factory synthetic stock with a wood stock. I have heard that the Model 77 is hard to glass bed. Can anyone share some tricks or tips with me on this. Share any experiences or results.....
 
#3 ·
KRL1968,

I would not agree that the RUGER 77 is hard to glass bed!!!!!!!!!!!!

Have been there and done that a number of times and it is not any harder then any other rifle.

As per pressure under the barrel, I take the position that I want consistancy and that comes from having nothing in contact with my barrel.

Yes, I realize that some rifles may shoot better with some pressure, but any wood to barrel contact with normal production wood stocks is asking for problems in the field.

Just an Ol'Coot's opinion, but I have seen the problem and in a hunting situation, it is nothing I want even a remote possibility of happening!

All my hunting rifles, even my RUGER #1s with the two piece stocks have their barrels floated.

In fact, the only rifle I have which is not floated is my Clark Custom RUGER 77/22. I don't rely on it to take eating type game, and it shoots so very well as it came from Clark that I have never taken it apart.

I have also seen a hunting rifle's groups cut in half by floating. So pay your money and take you choice.

Glass bed BEFORE you float as it helps keep the action in the proper position during bedding.

Bed and then float.

Before glassing, Drill your action screw holes out a large as possible without the hole showing on the outside of the metal/wood, then after the glass has cured, drill the glas out enough to prevent any stock screw to stock contact.

Properly done, this provides "piller" bedding on the glass columns.

One thing, no matter what you are glasing, have your ducks in a row before you ever mix the resin!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I like to have a good stack of "T.P." pieces off the roll and waiting for all the little cleaning jobs that will be needed during the glassing operation.

Keep the glass out of your checkering!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Make sure every thing is properly coated with release agent!!!!!!!

Take anything off of the action that glass may flow into/under/behind. It will if it can, and it is the real pits to get it out if it happens.

After applying the release agent, I still give my action screws a light coating of grease and then fill the screw hole in the action with grease to prevent any glass from getting into the hole/action when everything is put together.

Take some black electrial tape and put at least one layer on the front surface of the recoil lug, BEFORE applying the release agent.

Like the action screws, you do not want the finished bedding job to have contact between the front of the lug and the stock..

Allow the glass to cure over night, and be prepared to fight the action out of the stock the first time.

The combination of the very tight fit and the electal tape will make it hard to seperate that first time.

You should have no problems removing the actions screws if you follow the above directions, but if so. apply a bit of heat to the screw head.

I have also heard that putting the entire gun in a freezer for awhile helps in getting it appart the first time.

Haven't been there and done that.

To bad you don't live close by, be glad to help you with the project if you did.

Keep em coming!

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot
 
#4 ·
Ok Guys,
I have not taken my M77 MKII 30-06 apart yet. I plan to glass bed the action and float the barrell. I need to understand a few more items.

Recoil lug: The last post said there should be no contact in the front of the recoil lug. Did you mean the bottow?

Glass Bedding: Is the purpose of this to achive the tightes fit fron stock to action as possible? What is the theroy behind it?

Thank you
 
#5 ·
Jerrodlk,

Sorry, I gave incomplete info in that post.

Both the bottom and the front of the recoil lug should be free of contact with the stock after the bedding is complete.

Same thing with the action screws.

This has always worked out well for me, so I have had no reason to doubt or test other methods.

The common wisdom indicates that the single most important items in bedding is no twist or stress in the action when tightened into place, and the sidgle most important bedding issue is the contact of the back of the recoil lug and the action imeadiately behind the lug.

So, the reason for no contact at the bottom or front of the lug, and no side to side contact with the action screw is to prevent introducing any stress.

Before you do the glasbedding, loosen the rear action screw while watching for movement in the action as the screw comes loose.

If that happens, the stock has shifted/warped over time or was not correctly inletted to begin with. Probably the first.

If you have that movement, you could simply NOT tighten down the rear screw to the point where the action/stock springs while glassing.

However, this MAY NOT be good as the metal may then be above the surrounding wood when put together.

Better would be to add enough shimming material on the flat behind the recoil lug, to where the action/stock does not spring/move as the screws are tightened.

I like to remove a fair amount of wood behind the recoil lug before glassing, leaving enough - undisturbed - wood on both sides of the stock and under the behind the lug flat for the action to set on during the glassing.

I also like to honey comb that area with holes and in that way increasing the strength of the area.

That is probably over kill, as the Acraglas, properly mixed and installed is really strong!!!!!!!!!!!

I personally do not like the Acraglas gel and for that reason use the liquid even though it is harder to work with.

If you'll re-read my other post, you can also see some of my other cautions.

Just make sure to have your ducks in a row, BEFORE ever mixing the resin!

The Acra gla is great stuff, but it can be the real, to the max, pits if you let it get away from you, get on stuff, harded before your ready etc.

Oh and P.S. do not, and I say again, do not work with the resin over mama's carpet. Really, :eek: REALLY bad idea :eek: !

Keep em coming!

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot
 
#6 · (Edited)
My 300 Win Mag has a synthetic stock. The stock was sanded along the barrel area until a folded dollar bill could slide the entire length of the barrel. The mounting lug was set into glass completely surrounding it. That is all I did.
The photo is from the 100 yard range, shooting 173 gr FMJ with 73 gr of H4831
If I could stop my heart, I could tighten the group!
 
#7 ·
Varney,

In spite of the instructions given in my Hawkeye instruction manual, I also floated my rifle. I have not however, glass bedded it.

It shoots flat out great and the barrel seem to be a fast one.

Have seen a touch over 3300fps with a 165gr Nosler Partition and WELL under an inch.

Great barrel!

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot
 
#8 ·
I am not sure the glass bedding does anything as I did I all at the same time.
The guns are good, so I think it comes down to how you load your ammo and how well you shoot. I have used this rifle to shoot 1 gallon milk jugs at 800 measured yards
Once you figure out the hold over you can do it over and over, if there is no wind!
 
#9 ·
Varney,

There are times when glas bedding is the "cat's meow"

Once had a Rem. 700 where the action & barrel set out of line with the stock.

Shimmed the barrel to make sure it was lined up, glass bedded the action and once that was cured, floated the barrel channel.

Everything was then lined up as it should be and should have been from the start.

When I bed an action, I like to use the glas to "piller bed" the action during the process.

Hard to know if each of these "touches" make all that much difference when they are done all at once, but they have never shown any sign of causing problems as the end result was always positive.

CDOC
 
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