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416 Ruger accuracy

This is a discussion on 416 Ruger accuracy within the Ruger Bolt Action forums, part of the Rifle & Shotgun Forum category; Has anyone had iisues with the 416 spraying rounds all over the place? By spraying, I mean 6-8 inch groups at 100 yards. The sope ...


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Old May 4th, 2017, 04:12 PM   #1
 
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416 Ruger accuracy

Has anyone had iisues with the 416 spraying rounds all over the place? By spraying, I mean 6-8 inch groups at 100 yards. The sope rings are torqued to 30 in # per instructions and I was shooting a 400 Hornady solid at about 2250 FPS. The chrono showed a SD of 17 FPS so I doubt it was the load. Has anyone removed the pressure point that Ruger puts near the end of the barrel? My other Rugers shoot wonderfully with it in place but I'm at a loss. It has a Zeiss Conquest I've had for years on it. Thanks.



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Old May 4th, 2017, 05:29 PM   #2
 
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Without trying to say anything about your shooting, have you ever shot anything with that heavy a recoil. You may be flinching if you have never shot anything heavier than say a 30-06
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Old May 4th, 2017, 06:15 PM   #3
 
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I shoot big bores and when I do load work up I use a lead sled. I shoot a 45-70 with a 350 gr at 2150 in a 7.5 pound rifle. I don't think it's that. I'm not too recoil sensitive.
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Old May 5th, 2017, 04:35 AM   #4
 
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416

Quote:
Originally Posted by avmatters View Post
I shoot big bores and when I do load work up I use a lead sled. I shoot a 45-70 with a 350 gr at 2150 in a 7.5 pound rifle. I don't think it's that. I'm not too recoil sensitive.
I put my question gingerly as I did not mean an insult I just asked a question that I thought may help. Good luck with the rifle.
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Old May 5th, 2017, 07:20 AM   #5
 
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Understood. I was just trying to inform. Iv'e shot scopes apart before but I don't think that's the issue with this one. I suspect the factory pressure point on the forearm but wondered if anyone else had an issue with it. Thanks.
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Old May 6th, 2017, 01:10 AM   #6
 
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Hi all ..I have a Ruger guide gun in 416 Ruger with the factory open sights using both the 400 hornady solids and the same in round soft nose cartridges I can hit a roughly 4" inch steel gong on our hunting camp range at 100 meters 3 shots in a row.
I am not sure what model rifle you have. The guide gun isn't a very heavy for a rifle this size calibre and I have often wondered how accuracy would go if you spent a few hours plinking at the range with one once the barrel heated up. I rarely ever fire more than 4 shots out of it in days hunting.
I have never used mine with a scope and hunt with it open sights so I don't really have any advise other than try it with the iron sights off your sled and see what it does. At least it ticks that off your list of possible problems.
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Old May 6th, 2017, 04:01 AM   #7
 
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Update. The 23" is free floated from the factory. It is rather tight on one side so I'll sand that area. I'm also going to free float the magazine and give it another try after a good cleaning. I'm also going to re-torque the actin screws per Ruger.
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Old May 6th, 2017, 08:11 AM   #8
 
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Check the crown on the barrel for damage or burrs. I have seen two rugers with bad crowns from the factory. Let us know what works!
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Old May 6th, 2017, 12:51 PM   #9
 
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I pulled it apart today, checked torque on rings. All good. I did find very slopppy inletting and pressure on left side of the barrel. I removed the wood where it was touching. Torqued action per Ruger. Back to the range.
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Old May 6th, 2017, 07:03 PM   #10
 
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Hopefully that sorts the problem out for you. Have you shot it standing? or just off a bench?
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Old May 6th, 2017, 07:45 PM   #11
 
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LAst time I had an issue with a rifle that would put a couple in the bull, then throw one, couple more in the bull, then throw one.

It was the scope. Changed that out, and cured it.

Good luck.
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Old May 10th, 2017, 08:14 AM   #12
 
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Hopefully that fixes your problem, but I have found that when you get a 416 you NEED heavy scope rings that sit low and have at LEAST 3 screws in the rings to hold them together! The recoil can be pretty amazing even with a brake on the barrel. I shot a 416RemMag for years and it was super accurate from a rest at 100yds...groups were 1 MOA or less. Currently I have a Ruger Guide Gun in 375Ruger and the bullets touch at 100yds. Have you checked to see if your scope is being pinched? There are kits that allow you to check if the rings are straight, this was a subtle issue I found with my Remington 700, sometimes you can alleviate that by swapping the rings around, forward to back and reversing them around.
Basically, lots of scope variables yet to test if the bedding clean-up doesn't fix it!
Here is my Ruger Guide gun with a Leupold 4-12x40 oh, and I had to order rings! The standard rings supplied with the gun would NOT keep me on target. Screws were tight, but the scope would actually work it's way back in the scope rings!!! Took a while to figure out what was happening! It was subtle and didn't notice the scope was creeping back till it actually hit the rise where you adjust the power!!
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Old May 10th, 2017, 08:22 AM   #13
 
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Thanks, I checked that. I put on a set of Alaskan Arms quick detach rings/bases to start with friction tape. I checked the torque again. They build those rings for this application. I can't swap the rings as Rugers have two different height rings front and back. It has a Zeiss on it and they stated that they are good through 50 BMG so I'm hoping it is the stock. I'm going to shoot irons at 50 yards to check.

I "think" it was barrel heating so I'll shoot three and wait. I did have a .35 Whelen shoot a scope apart recently so I put a Leica on it and problem solved. I had a scope die on a little 6mm but that was because it was old and cheap.
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Old May 11th, 2017, 12:55 AM   #14
 
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I had a look at the Alaskan Arms web site. Without starting an argument I honestly don't think they are going to be up to par for your .416. The installation video shows the "fiction" paper to "grip "your scope under heavy recoil might be your problem you might as well grease the scope tube cross your fingers and hope for the best. My understanding is that the rings and the scope are machined to very close tolerances and rely on bare metal inside the rings making contact with only the thinnest layer of paint or coating that colours the scope tube to the point that it to will mark the finish and grip the tube under even compression. I always bed scope rings with a slightly under diameter machined rod and very fine emery paper to get that very even finish right through the both sets of rings. While .416 is not the heaviest calibre it still gives a good recoil it will be working on the weakest link in your set up which I honestly feel is that tape and the machined inside diameter of the rings matched to your scope tube.. anyway just my thoughts..
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Old May 11th, 2017, 07:58 AM   #15
 
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I've used friction paper for years. Some do, some don't. I had to use it with an 1895 Marlin firing heavy 45-70 loads to hold the scope with Warne rings. It just kept sliding back. The Alaskan Arms mounts were highly spoken of on a couple of Africa hunting forums so I'm giving them a try. I need to be able to detach the scope and go iron if needed. I checked torque and they're fine. The scope is tight and hasn't moved rearward. The crown looks OK so once I've shot iron, I'll isolate to scope.
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