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Glass bedding plastic stocks

This is a discussion on Glass bedding plastic stocks within the Ruger Bolt Action forums, part of the Rifle & Shotgun Forum category; Does anyone have experience glass bedding molded plastic stocks? I bought a Howa mini action .223. The factory stock is pillar bedded, but there is ...


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Old January 7th, 2017, 03:06 AM   #1
 
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Glass bedding plastic stocks

Does anyone have experience glass bedding molded plastic stocks?
I bought a Howa mini action .223. The factory stock is pillar bedded, but there is enough slop side to side that depending on where things are when the screws are tightened, the barrel can contact the stock.
I would like to eliminate the movement.

I'm concerned with adhesion of the bedding compound to the plastic, as well as how much work will be involved with stiffening up the fore end.
I'll be using a Harris bi-pod, and the plastic is rather twisty.

My other option is just to chuck the plastic and buy a Boyd's wood stock, bed it, and be done with it.

Right now the rifle w/o scope weighs 6 lbs, which is nice for a walking varminter.
Thoughts?

Bill



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Old January 7th, 2017, 08:40 AM   #2
 
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I have a couple of bolt-action rifles with molded plastic stocks. I've experienced the same issues of sloppy fit and flex with them. At least the one you have has pillars. Getting the bedding compound to adhere, difficulty of stiffening, and dissimimar properties of the hard epoxy and soft polymer are all reasons I haven't tried it. I accept their limitations and hope the price of better aftermarket stocks becomes more affordable. I know my Rem 700 SPS Varmint .223 would benefit greatly from being bedded into a stiff, stable stock. I'm interested in your results if you experiment. Good luck!
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Old January 7th, 2017, 12:02 PM   #3
 
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I bought an American Predator and reinforced the stock with two part epoxy, filling in all the cavities and then buffing out around the blocks. I was concerned about heating the stock too much with the exothermic reaction of the epoxy so I made a wooden frame to hold the stock straight before I applied the epoxy. The stock is rigid and I only gained a pound. Since then I have seen posts where others have routed a channel and added an aluminum strut under the epoxy etc. I am a bench rest shooter, so different application than you, but this gun is now a sub moa shooter on a Harris bipod. The stock does not touch the barrel. My best results so far are .6 moa at 200 with my 6.5 C.
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Old January 7th, 2017, 08:49 PM   #4
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danad View Post
I bought an American Predator and reinforced the stock with two part epoxy, filling in all the cavities and then buffing out around the blocks. I was concerned about heating the stock too much with the exothermic reaction of the epoxy so I made a wooden frame to hold the stock straight before I applied the epoxy. The stock is rigid and I only gained a pound. Since then I have seen posts where others have routed a channel and added an aluminum strut under the epoxy etc. I am a bench rest shooter, so different application than you, but this gun is now a sub moa shooter on a Harris bipod. The stock does not touch the barrel. My best results so far are .6 moa at 200 with my 6.5 C.
I'm assuming that you roughed up the plastic before applying the epoxy, yes?
Any problems with adhesion?
Did the stock actually heat up during the cure?
Was your wood frame necessary?
Your results sound promising.
My factory stock doesn't look bad and is actually stiffer than many plastic stocks I've seen, so I wouldn't mind putting a little work into it.
I was thinking of filling the forend with fiberglass reinforced body putty.

A Boyds stock will run me around $150, which isn't too bad, but it will need to be bedded too.

Thanks, Bill
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Old January 8th, 2017, 12:31 PM   #5
 
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I did rough up the honeycomb on the bottom of the stock a little and then washed it with dishwasher detergent to remove any of the oily shipping residue. The stock REALLY heated up when I put the epoxy mix into the honeycomb, hot enough that I put cotton gloves on to handle it. I think the wood frame was necessary but it was not elaborate by any means. Couple of pieces of plywood down the sides with clamps, another on the bottom and a block in the front with a slight taper to match the stock taper. I just finished a reno on my kitchen so I had leftovers.... lol. I am really pleased with the results, the stock is very stiff now. I can only attest to the success of the Ruger stock though. It was extremely flexible and was touching the barrel on one side out of the box. It definitely banged on the barrel when I was using the bipod, especially with 140's and a hot load.
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Old January 11th, 2017, 05:31 PM   #6
 
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I was looking on Brownells site, and I found the instructions on using their Acraglass product. Acraglas Gel | World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS

After reading the tips on plastic stocks, I'm a little more confident.

While on the site I started looking at a billet aluminum chassis system. It's big bucks, but I think it's worth looking into.

If I get one I'll post a photo.

Bill
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Old January 14th, 2017, 03:49 PM   #7
 
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I liked the look of the chassis system. I think it will be an improvement over the plastic stock for my application. No glass bedding necessary.
The same type of stock is available for quite a few rifle actions, including Ruger.
Now all I need is some decent weather to try it out.
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Old January 18th, 2017, 02:27 PM   #8
 
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NICE! Good looking setup! Let us know how it works.
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