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This is a discussion on Gunsite Scout Rifle within the Ruger Bolt Action forums, part of the Rifle & Shotgun Forum category; I just purchased one of these in .308. I have not fired it yet, but have a few questions for those of you with experience ...


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Old December 9th, 2016, 05:18 AM   #1
 
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Gunsite Scout Rifle

I just purchased one of these in .308. I have not fired it yet, but have a few questions for those of you with experience with this firearm.

When I cycle the bolt, it seems to very easy to cause it to bind. When the bolt is to the rear, if I do not push it back into place exactly straight, it binds and does not move. Any upward, downward, left or right movement causes it to stick. I have never had this problem with any other bolt action rifles that I own (this is my first Ruger Bolt Action). Slow deliberate action on my part alleviates this problem, but in the field, when trying to cycle another round quickly, I could see this being a problem. The bolt has a lot of play in the receiver when at its rear most position.

When using the iron sights (sighting in), for me anyway, the rear aperture all but disappears. In other words, it does not seem bold enough. Maybe it is just me, but I am used to the AR-15's rear aperture. Anyone know if any aftermarket iron ghost ring sites for this rifle?

Thanks for any suggestions!



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Old December 9th, 2016, 03:20 PM   #2
 
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Rickrat,

I have the Gunsite Scout 308 also and have had the same problem with the bolt action.
If I cycle the bolt slow & deliberately I usually have no problems. The action has been getting better the more I use it. Have found that lubricating the bolt and all surfaces that it slides on will improve the cycling of the bolt. I use Pro Lube a synthetic grease or Lubriplate a white grease military grade. I have the 18" SS Barrel and am very happy with the accuracy of how it shoots. I have only shot about 50 rounds out of mine in the 3 years since I bought it.

Glenn
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Old December 9th, 2016, 05:00 PM   #3
 
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I have several Gunsite Scouts. Some bind more than others. The internals of the Rugers are much rougher than say a Winchester 70 or a Tikka. I have found that Extreme Weapons Lube grease helps. I have wondered what GALT would do since the bolt is Stainless. One of the GSRs went back to Ruger. They replaced the Mauser style claw with a bit different design. It was much improved.
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Old December 9th, 2016, 05:29 PM   #4
 
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I like peep sights because with bad eyesight like mine it is the only irons I can use and the ring should disappear.
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Old December 9th, 2016, 05:46 PM   #5
 
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My GSR has been flawless. They DO get better with age.....
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Old December 9th, 2016, 05:49 PM   #6
 
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The rear ring disappearing is what is taking some getting used too. I don't get the visual confirmation that the front post is centered correctly.
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Old December 9th, 2016, 07:41 PM   #7
 
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@Cptpoly

You're right I shot a bunch of USGI 7.62 through one of them and it tightened up the groups. I think Ruger barrels start off a bit more rough than others. They need breaking in.
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Old December 11th, 2016, 05:45 AM   #8
 
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The trick to it is to put a slight amount of downward pressure on the bolt handle as youre closing it. Not too much but just a slight amount. Try it and youll see what i mean.
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Old December 11th, 2016, 12:09 PM   #9
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I polished the bolt on mine and ran it a lot. It can be run pretty fast. I heard that the earlier rifles were sloppier and they tightened clearances in later runs.
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Old January 12th, 2017, 10:49 AM   #10
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSR Fan View Post
I think Ruger barrels start off a bit more rough than others. They need breaking in.
I have several Rugers, they all came home rough, with the exception of my M77 Predator.

For the first few trips to the range, clean the bore to the steel with JB Bore Paste or similar. It only takes about 100 rounds over five sessions.
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Old January 15th, 2017, 05:52 AM   #11
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heartbreaker View Post
I polished the bolt on mine and ran it a lot. It can be run pretty fast. I heard that the earlier rifles were sloppier and they tightened clearances in later runs.
Yes, the OP's GSR is probably one of the earlier ones. The first one I had not long after they came out had a binding bolt as well.
When retracted, you could move the bolt sideways a good inch. It was getting better with use and liberal lube, but I did a move to a different place, and sold some things, the GSR being one of them.
Supposedly, Ruger listened to complaints, and I'm sure were tired of getting them back to "remedy" for the customer. So they changed the stainless specs on the bolt, and tightened up the bolt raceway tolerance.
The later ones are reported to be better, and the one I now have cycles smoothly, for a Ruger anyway.
You do have to remember, when working the action to smartly run the bolt to the rear if you want the empty to eject clear. If you baby it while pulling the bolt back, the spent brass will be laying there, loose from the bolt head, but on top on the next loaded round, so you have to tilt the gun to the side and flick off the offending empty so you can feed the next round.
I never have that problem with my M700 or Savage, but have to remind myself when going back to shooting the GSR that the bolt needs to be run hard for positive ejection. The ad copy for the GSR on Ruger's website says: "Non rotating Mauser type control round feed is the most positive case extraction system ever invented, and features a fixed blade type ejector that positively ejects the empty cases as the bolt is moved fully rearward".
Ruger¬ģ Gunsite Scout Rifle * Bolt-Action Rifle Models
Well, all bolt actions require that you move the bolt fully rearward, but on the GSR (the two I've had anyway) you really need to get some excess velocity so you fully run all the way back, almost like a little snap at the end.
Is guess that was a good thing, when I was working up loads, that I could open the bolt gentler and pick the brass off the top of the magazine to put back in the ammo container.
And yes I save all my brass, even when working the bolt fast when shooting steel, and if I can find them, when hunting. I bought 500 rounds of new Lake City .308 brass, ( sold as Federal American Eagle 7.62 x 51 unprimed brass) and mostly load the 168 grain Hornady A-Max for my general purpose load.
These short, medium weight, good hammer forged barrels on the GSR can produce some really great groups with the right loads.
I sure enjoy my GSR.

Last edited by sandog; January 15th, 2017 at 05:58 AM.
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Old February 14th, 2017, 05:53 PM   #12
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gkayea View Post
Rickrat,

I have the Gunsite Scout 308 also and have had the same problem with the bolt action.
If I cycle the bolt slow & deliberately I usually have no problems. The action has been getting better the more I use it. Have found that lubricating the bolt and all surfaces that it slides on will improve the cycling of the bolt. I use Pro Lube a synthetic grease or Lubriplate a white grease military grade. I have the 18" SS Barrel and am very happy with the accuracy of how it shoots. I have only shot about 50 rounds out of mine in the 3 years since I bought it.

Glenn
Thank you for this post. Great advice!

Your suggestion of lithium grease seems to have helped resolve a binding issue described by the OP.


Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk
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Old February 15th, 2017, 10:19 AM   #13
 
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Mine's an early example: a 2010 production and it is smooth as a any bolt gun I've ever worked. I put a little grease in the thing just to see if it could be smoother. It is a little. I can cycle the bolt as slow or fast as I'd like and it just goes. Great rifle.
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