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'V" Block screws

This is a discussion on 'V" Block screws within the Ruger 10/22 Rimfire forums, part of the Rifle & Shotgun Forum category; How do you get a torque wrench on these bolts? There isn't enough clearance between the screws and barrel to get my 1/4" wrench itn ...


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Old September 25th, 2008, 05:04 PM   #1
 
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Question 'V" Block screws

How do you get a torque wrench on these bolts? There isn't enough clearance between the screws and barrel to get my 1/4" wrench itn there to use it? I give, what am I missing here?? Holeshot 308



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Old September 26th, 2008, 06:01 AM   #2
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You could use an extension, but that kinda defeats the use of the Torque wrench due to "flex" I guess. I snug up my V-Block screws, but don't really worry about torqueing them, just get them good and snug.

JMO though,

JJ
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Old October 5th, 2008, 06:12 PM   #3
 
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Cool Snap-On solution

Snap-On online has a 1/4"drive x 5/32" hex-ball socket for around $16.00 shipped. Heard that this works great on the "V" block screws. Holeshot 308
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Old October 22nd, 2008, 04:31 AM   #4
 
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What is the torque on the v-block screws???
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Old October 22nd, 2008, 03:27 PM   #5
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Factory spec is 28 inch pounds.
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Old November 16th, 2008, 11:03 AM   #6
 
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I always just turned until my wrist snapped. Just kidding, an old jet mechanic saying as we were supposed to torque every nut and bolt int he engine. It would have taken twice as many mechanic's if we had to torque every clamp nut & bolt.
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Old November 16th, 2008, 12:46 PM   #7
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Just a few words of caution about torquing "V" block screws. 28 inch pounds isn't a lot of torque. The threaded section is the receiver, which is the serial numbered part and can not be replaced. It is made out of an aluminum alloy ... quite soft. Over torquing causes several problems. First, if you take your barrel off and re-torque it too many times or over torque it, you will strip the receiver threads. Aluminum doesn't deal with torque very well. Next is barrel droop. If you over torque, you can pull the barrel down so much that it will stretch the top section where the barrel slides in. Barrel droop will make the 10/22 have feeding and extraction problems because the bolt is no longer "square" with the barrel. Additionally, the scope mount for a 10/22 is on the receiver. If the barrel droops much, you may not have enough vertical turret screw adjustment to zero the gun.

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Old November 17th, 2008, 09:33 AM   #8
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And over-torquing can snap the v-block's in half too.

JJ
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Old November 25th, 2008, 04:41 PM   #9
 
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Quote:
Snap-On online has a 1/4"drive x 5/32" hex-ball socket for around $16.00 shipped. Heard that this works great on the "V" block screws.
That would work to tighten the screws but the angle would throw off the torque reading. If you want to be exact and have a trigger pull gage you can use it with a normal allen wrench. Put the short arm in the screw and pull against the long end with the guage. Divide 28 by how many inches out on the allen wrench you hook the gage. That number is how many pounds you should stop pulling at. For instance, an allen wrench with a 4 inch long side could be pulled to 7 pounds.
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Old November 25th, 2008, 06:47 PM   #10
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BigCountry, I've been using your technique for many years only I use a calibrated spring tension tester instead of a trigger pull gauge. My 5/32" Allen wrench has a ball tip on the long end where the ball tip groove is 4" from the center of the working end. The groove makes a perfect place to hook the spring tension tester. I never thought of using a trigger pull gauge but it should work just as well. Even a cheap Zebco spring fish scale will be close enough.

You're absolutely right about the torque wrench. Any change from a 90 deg angle will corrupt the measurement ... it will always read higher than actual torque so you wouldn't be tightening the screws quite enough .... but then absolute perfection isn't really necessary. The most important issue is to NOT over torque the screws.
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Old April 20th, 2009, 06:21 AM   #11
 
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Bump on this thread... USEFUL INFO for those who reinstall or replace their barrels!
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Old April 22nd, 2009, 08:47 PM   #12
 
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Brilliant solution!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigCountry View Post
That would work to tighten the screws but the angle would throw off the torque reading. If you want to be exact and have a trigger pull gage you can use it with a normal allen wrench. Put the short arm in the screw and pull against the long end with the guage. Divide 28 by how many inches out on the allen wrench you hook the gage. That number is how many pounds you should stop pulling at. For instance, an allen wrench with a 4 inch long side could be pulled to 7 pounds.

Hi Big,

You and Iowegan enlightened me! Yesterday, I ordered the Lyman electronic trigger pull gauge, and today picked up a set of ball hex wrenches. I was fretting over how the heck I can get a torque wrench square on those stupid screws.... you two guys have shown that "chewing on the bone will get you to the marrow."

It's a "perfect" solution: a spring gauge, ball hex wrench (using the ball end as the catch for the gauge) and a bit of basic math.... DONE DEAL!
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