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10/22 trigger job

This is a discussion on 10/22 trigger job within the Ruger 10/22 Rimfire forums, part of the Rifle & Shotgun Forum category; Took my new 10/22 out and got the scope close enough to hit the target. But the trigger was very stiff & rough. I polished ...


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Old December 5th, 2012, 06:07 PM   #1
 
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10/22 trigger job

Took my new 10/22 out and got the scope close enough to hit the target. But the trigger was very stiff & rough.
I polished both sear contact surfaces mirror bright (and the re-set surfaces too, while I was at it). I shortened and lightened the trigger return spring. All told, I reduced trigger pull by nearly half, it feels like. But the trigger pull is still really heavy for good accuracy.
The kids can learn on this trigger, but I eventually want it to be accurate. So I guess I need to get a whole new trigger assembly? Or is there something cheaper I can do?



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Old December 5th, 2012, 06:48 PM   #2
 
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Ruger 10/22 "trigger job" kit

Never used one myself, but I hear good things
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Old December 6th, 2012, 11:57 AM   #3
 
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Re: 10/22 trigger job

You've done some great work so far on your trigger assembly.

Now to lighten up your trigger pull, buy the drop in Volquartsen hammer ( ONLY the hammer ).

You'll get a "break the glass" 2.5# trigger pull. I have three of my 10/22's setup this way for benchrest shooting.

Here you go: Volquartsen Target Hammer Bushings Ruger 10/22

TK
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Old December 6th, 2012, 12:47 PM   #4
 
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What you want is what determines what you need. I've gone routes with the simple hammer change, both PC and VQ, whole DIY kits, rebuilds from the guys that specialize in it to full assemblies. Unless you're going full top-level stuff for the rest of the gun, a whole assembly will be a waste of money for you. My preferred route now is the Kidd trigger kit. I prefer this one over the rebuilds I've gotten and actually over the full VQ assembly. It's that good.
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Old December 6th, 2012, 04:48 PM   #5
 
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Thanks to the 3 of you for your good perspectives. All very helpful.
I'm researching all of them in a few minutes.
We don't want a full-on bench rest target gun. Well, we would like that, but it's too much $$$.
Now to look into what you folks have suggested...
Angky.
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Old December 7th, 2012, 07:51 AM   #6
 
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You might consider this PC kit and drill/tap your factory trigger for post travel stop...

Power Custom Pre-Travel Adjustable Hammer Sear Ruger 10/22

I have that sear, the VQ hammer/spring and did my own trigger stop with a 4mm x 8mm set screw...works great...

The Kidd kit with a new trigger w/ stop was the awesome deal to get when it was only $90 it would be a no brainer to spend the extra $20 but now they are $110 and so while they might well be the 'best' $40 less this PC package is a very good option...

Just going by what others say regarding the Kidd being the 'best' I am not saying it is not worth $110 and based on what others say if I were starting from scratch I would buy the $110 Kidd over the equivalent Power Custom for the same money just to find out if there is any difference...

I have yet to see anyone who had both give any details about the how/why the Kidd is better than the PC... so while I am not saying it isn't I am a tad bit skeptical regarding any differences...

Kidd has a testimonial on their website saying their sear/hammer/trigger kit has a no-creep trigger pull as crisp as a S&W Revolver in S/A...I am skeptical and want to know what S&W revolver that person has because I have a model 19-4 never modified that is the only one I can reference to and I cannot ever see any 10/22 trigger group with just the sear/hammer replaced being anywhere near that good...but if it is...I am missing out...

Don't underestimate the value of limiting the travel...

Buying just a target hammer/spring is okay but if you do that it will be much better if you drill/tap the trigger for stop screw and the pre-travel adjustment is very good thing imo...

I did them one at time...did the hammer/spring first...then tapped my trigger...then got the pc adjst sear...

If I had to pick two out of three... I would take the harder pull with factory hammer and the adjt sear with slop and over travel kept to a minimum...especially with children at the trigger...especially with a hunter-style stock that is harder to get a firm grip on with a good solid aim... and reach the trigger... and get a firm pull/hold/release all at the same time...takes larger hands, longer fingers, more discipline and practice...and therefore I say the travel stop matters...and I would be extra cautious with children at the trigger with a target hammer installed...

If you go back a page or three on this forum you will see several people with modified triggers...including the Kidd kit... coming on a saying there guns are malfunctioning and going full auto...

Reality is they are just UN-intended bump fires due to light trigger pull...I am convinced now even more than before based on my recent experience with a diy slide/bump-fire stock on my 10/22...

The over travel stop will help eliminate that possibility with a lighter pull...even tho one might think the opposite to be true if one did not spend time with it...

The travel stop for me on the 10/22 is a no-brainer and must have...if I was going to do the three cheapest and most highly effective things to one out the box it would be the sharp claw extractor, bolt release, travel stop...

Last edited by ZommyGun; December 7th, 2012 at 07:55 AM.
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Old December 7th, 2012, 05:01 PM   #7
 
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Thanks, Zommygun, for your details.
I got the sharp claw extractor and the bolt release (which I'm a bit frustrated with since it gets in the way for cleaning the barrel).
Travel stop is something I didn't consider. I'll look into that.
The Kidd devices sure do look tempting, but too much $$$--at least for now.
I was looking pretty closely at that PC adjustable sear, but didn't know what it was all about.
The hammer-- I think the only way to get a good clean break is to use heat-treated steel. The OE part looks like it is a sintered device, and I can't get a crisp clean edge on it without tiny particles breaking out. So if the aftermarket parts are also sintered, then I might not gain anything.
Thoughts?
Angky.
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Old December 7th, 2012, 05:19 PM   #8
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angky View Post
Thanks, Zommygun, for your details.
I got the sharp claw extractor and the bolt release (which I'm a bit frustrated with since it gets in the way for cleaning the barrel).
Travel stop is something I didn't consider. I'll look into that.
The Kidd devices sure do look tempting, but too much $$$--at least for now.
I was looking pretty closely at that PC adjustable sear, but didn't know what it was all about.
The hammer-- I think the only way to get a good clean break is to use heat-treated steel. The OE part looks like it is a sintered device, and I can't get a crisp clean edge on it without tiny particles breaking out. So if the aftermarket parts are also sintered, then I might not gain anything.
Thoughts?
Angky.
Yes the Kidd things are a little pricey but they are first class machined products. No castings.
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Old December 7th, 2012, 06:51 PM   #9
 
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10 22 trigger

I have been working on our 10 22's (we have 4) and here is what I found. By stoning the original hammer and sear, polishing the trigger return pin and clipping a couple of coils, I can get a pretty nice 3 pound trigger. With the PC kit with adjustable sear, I end up with right around 2 1/2 to 3 pounds, very smooth. With the Volquartsen target hammer and all the springs that it comes with, combined with the PC competition sear, I am getting between 1 and 1 1/2 pounds! This combo is as smooth as glass. I have over travel screws in all of them which really makes a difference. I am going to play around with the PC adjustable sear and the Volquartsen hammer to eliminate the creep. I have a Kidd trigger kit with the different springs on order that was supposed to be here today, but it got hung up in shipping so I guess that will be next weeks project. These are FUN guns to play around with.
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Old December 7th, 2012, 07:29 PM   #10
 
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This may be a noob question, but why not drill & tap the trigger guard and mount a stop/screw in it (rather than the trigger itself)?

Last edited by SouthSideScubaSteve; December 8th, 2012 at 08:11 AM. Reason: auto-complete that I can't figure out how to turn off...
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Old December 7th, 2012, 08:43 PM   #11
 
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10 22 trigger

I like my overtravel screws in the trigger. On the older trigger groups the trigger is aluminum so this is easy.
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Old December 8th, 2012, 11:05 AM   #12
 
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trigger

Check out BrimstoneGunsmithing $35-$110
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Old December 8th, 2012, 02:49 PM   #13
 
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Angky, the Kidd trigger job kit for $105 is the best of the best if you have a poly trigger housing and want to get under 2# with zero creep or take up. His kit is so good its worth it if you have to buy just a poly housing to use it.
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Old December 9th, 2012, 03:20 PM   #14
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlkHawk73 View Post
What you want is what determines what you need. I've gone routes with the simple hammer change, both PC and VQ, whole DIY kits, rebuilds from the guys that specialize in it to full assemblies. Unless you're going full top-level stuff for the rest of the gun, a whole assembly will be a waste of money for you. My preferred route now is the Kidd trigger kit. I prefer this one over the rebuilds I've gotten and actually over the full VQ assembly. It's that good.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowa Fox View Post
Angky, the Kidd trigger job kit for $105 is the best of the best if you have a poly trigger housing and want to get under 2# with zero creep or take up. His kit is so good its worth it if you have to buy just a poly housing to use it.
I keep reading this about Kidd. Sure does sound appealing.
I got a real good deal on the gun (new), but it still came up around 2 C notes. That's all the money I got for this gun for a little while--although I might be able to bargain something under $50 from the wife. So I guess I'm gonna try some of the other suggestions until I can get enough saved for the Kidd.
It's almost frustrating, seeing something so good that you can't have--if it wasn't so much fun to have something to look forward to while we're messing around "makin' it better." (A quote I learned from the wife--who uses it mockingly and says she learned it from me!!!)
I'm going to try some shimming and trigger stops--like I learned about from this thread. I'll let you guys know what I find out.

Oh! Almost forgot!
Iowa,The poly housing is better than the aluminum??? I'd athought the metal housing is better.
Angky.
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Old December 9th, 2012, 03:34 PM   #15
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angky View Post
I keep reading this about Kidd. Sure does sound appealing.
I got a real good deal on the gun (new), but it still came up around 2 C notes. That's all the money I got for this gun for a little while--although I might be able to bargain something under $50 from the wife. So I guess I'm gonna try some of the other suggestions until I can get enough saved for the Kidd.
It's almost frustrating, seeing something so good that you can't have--if it wasn't so much fun to have something to look forward to while we're messing around "makin' it better." (A quote I learned from the wife--who uses it mockingly and says she learned it from me!!!)
I'm going to try some shimming and trigger stops--like I learned about from this thread. I'll let you guys know what I find out.

Oh! Almost forgot!
Iowa,The poly housing is better than the aluminum??? I'd athought the metal housing is better.
Angky.

Most favor the alloy housing just because that what as originally used until just a couple years ago. I believe it's more not being able to accept change than anything. The polymer ones are manufactured to tighter tolerances - hence the Kidd kit may not work in the alloy ones with looser tolerances. Just a matter of personal taste.
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