Ruger Forum

ZommyGun · September 18th, 2012, 10:34 AM

Quote:

There's a member of our local forum carolinashootersclub.com who uses a similar setup to mine, but....

He uses the full length factory Ruger 10/22 rail, which has both the weaver and 3/8" dovetail option for mounting. He puts the red dot forward on the rail, mounts a front Ruger tech sights front sight and a rear tech sight unit made for the Marlin 60 (made for the 3/8" rimfire dovetail in other words).

It achieves the same result as above. For those concerned with mount strength that is another option.....

The trade off is that your rear sight is clamped to a rail now instead of being screwed to the receiver directly.

Thank you...just so you know I am not concerned with a red dot at this time...I am still considering an NDS-26 later...

I know the Bushnell will work if I want it to with the a1 and if I know what that height is I can easily tell if the Bushnell will work with my current rear sight...

Very curious tho to know what the precise front post height is with the a1 aperture...look forward to those calipers showing their face...if you want to find them fast...just accuse the wife of taking them and she'll go find them for you to prove you wrong...

I make my own front sights from scratch...the ones I am using now are makeshift prototype...once I am locked in on a permanent choice of options I will make a billet one piece front slip on...

I think the rail you are referring to is actually a Weaver TO-9 rail which I have and use in same fashion you describe...not the factory one but maybe I am not completely following you...

I currently use the Williams -54 on a TO-9 rail...it matches up to a 1" (more like .980") above center of bore post with the peep centered in it's elevation range...

My reasons for wanting my iron sights and scope to co witness are different than you guys but the methods are similar...

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westgl · September 19th, 2012, 12:53 PM

What I did was cut my Picatini Rail to suit the Mount length needed to mount the Bushnell Red Dot on the front Receiver Mount location. So that the iron sights co-witness through the Red Dot.

Then the other half of the picatini Rail would be mounted to the lower area in front of the Vertical fore Grip, that is right in front of my vertical grip so that I can mount a tactical light to the rail.

westgl · September 19th, 2012, 01:05 PM

hey ZommyGun,

Lets hear your reasoning behind co-witnessing the sights together.

I'll tell ya mine.

I want the benefit of the Red Dot when i want it. But If I have a electronic &/or battery Failure, I want to peal the Red Dot off FAAASST, so that I can shoot Iron sights

To be truthful the Red Dot may or may Not find its way back on this rifle after initial testing is complete.

My RedDots may just purch on different rifles, right now one of my Reddots is one a AR15, I may try one on my 22/45 LITE, but i would rather shoot it with iron sights.

The Batteries last a lot longer on Iron Sights and never go dead at the wrong time.

The RedDot batteries dont last very long, even just turned off sitting. I would rather be really proficient with GREAT Mechanical Iron Sights.

ZommyGun · September 20th, 2012, 08:35 AM

Yeah I read your reasons and posted mine earlier in the thread too...

I want my finished cheek rest to put my eye level at precisely the same point for both scope and my custom made iron...well...actually aluminum

sights...if they are not exactly the same then the cheek rest will be too low or too high for one or the other...I want perfection too...just a different definition of what perfection is...I would not want a Red Dot or a scope on my 10/22 if it were going to be used as a battle rifle...also don't need a scope out to about 50 yards...past that my eyes just don't focus that well anymore...

Very glad it all came together for you...sorry I wasn't any help...however, lots of people read the threads...if I were wanting that set up specifically and didn't have anything yet I would certainly get the NDS-26 and the Bushnell Red Dot...nothing to do but screw them on...rock solid one piece mount made for exactly that purpose...

westgl · September 20th, 2012, 12:06 PM

Hey ZommyGun,

Sounds like a Great bug out gun you have there. You & I have the same goals, I know what you mean about having the right eye height when you have a proper Cheek weld, that & the eye to depth of sight, from eye to rear sight to front sight & to target is also important, and adjusting cheek weld fore or aft to get it right.

I went with the Tech Sights only because i had researched them, and that they had changeable apertures, and i kinda liked that, if nothing else, they were adjustable, to get a Good eye depth of field & range with the Target.

I know what you are talking about as far as eye sight, and seeing clearly further out.
I could not see very far very clearly before, someone where i shoot recommended for me to get some eye drops, and that i probably had dry eyes and that my sight would improve and so would my shooting i tried it and wow what a difference, guess i just had dry eyes.

I usually put in a couple of eye drops about a half hour before i go to the range and it really has helped, I have been using "Systane" eye drops Long Lasting they work really well, i get them at the local grocery store

ZommyGun · September 21st, 2012, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by westgl

Hey ZommyGun,

Sounds like a Great SHTF weapon you have there. You & I have the same goals, I know what you mean about having the right eye height when you have a proper Cheek weld, that & the eye to depth of sight, from eye to rear sight to front sight & to target is also important, and adjusting cheek weld fore or aft to get it right.

I went with the Tech Sights only because i had researched them, and that they had changeable apertures, and i kinda liked that, if nothing else, they were adjustable, to get a Good eye depth of field & range with the Target.

I know what you are talking about as far as eye sight, and seeing clearly further out.
I could not see very far very clearly before, someone where i shoot recommended for me to get some eye drops, and that i probably had dry eyes and that my sight would improve and so would my shooting i tried it and wow what a difference, guess i just had dry eyes.

I usually put in a couple of eye drops about a half hour before i go to the range and it really has helped, I have been using "Systane" eye drops Long Lasting they work really well, i get them at the local grocery store

Here is what I am currently up to...

Low_Lower_Lowest

Yes and No on the same goals... Yes it has to be a certain way and as close to perfect for me as I can get without going nuts on $$$...

However shtf or tactical is not my primary concern...I would run right past that 22 to get something else in an emergency...

I have limited use of left arm...want to use it in SB Silhouette...which requires a scope...but also want handy-dandy cheap to shoot fun gun for blasting a lot of rounds at pop cans etc...extremely light weight...excellent balance...ergonomic as possible...and I am not a scope person...just now truly learning how to set one up and use it the correct way...

So currently my 28mm scope eye-level is approximately 1/16" higher than my peep sight in the picture in this thread...the scope comes on/off really fast and so does the rear sight that I swap it with...

This is do-able and if this set up winds up being the lowest I can mount the 28mm scope then I will redo the rear peep and front post to match...then finish out the cheek rest sculpting...

However...I am still attempting to get the lowest possible scope mount first and THEN finish out the iron (actually aluminum) sights and cheek rest...

The NRA match rules have limits on how high the cheek rest can be...additionally...my stock has the most heel drop of any on the market I am aware of...which means I can go the opposite route of most SB silhouette shooters who raise the scope and cheek rest as high as possible to compensate for lack of heel drop...which is also limited by match rules...but mine is at the max limit for heel drop INSTEAD of max limit for scope height...

IMO...which is the only one that counts for me...

the max heel drop and lowest possible scope mount with matching iron sights is the optimal result...

Most competitors would not consider only a 7x28mm scope either...however...I rather have less power and a whole lot less weight and a whole lot lower eye-level relative to the center of the bore with head erect and tight cheek rest any day...so having tried it both ways...I KNOW for a fact which is best for me and why...although you would not believe how many people try to convince me I don't...LOL...

I agree with you the tech sights are great option for run/gun/tactical with a factory stock if not using a scope or red dot...and TS and Nodak are quite similar overall with the Nodak having to clear advantages for me...an integrated peep/rail molded to fit the receiver and slip-on front post for bull barrel... and as I stated previously I had considered putting a TS200 rear aperture on the NDS-26...however, I think...not sure...the taller TS200 would interfere with a big scope...although I am sure there are tall enough rings...but again that causes problems...

I have also concluded that for anything beyond 50 yards I really do need a scope...and since the use within 50 yards is just fun shooting at cans etc and the need for accuracy is a lot less that the elevation adjustment of the TS200 is simply of no use to me...

Now that would have been for using a 6-24x44mm AO/TT scope for SBS...which may happen someday...but not anytime soon...but if that day comes I will want to know in advance what the front post height will be with that rear aperture...that being the TS100...I would be curious to know what you measure on yours...especially if you wind up zeroing at 50 yards with the rear elevation set to minimum and use the front post adjustment to get zero...that is how I would do mine if I had what you have but I am not trying to tell you what to do...

Later,
ZG