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Most common 10-22 mods

This is a discussion on Most common 10-22 mods within the Ruger 10/22 Rimfire forums, part of the Rifle & Shotgun Forum category; I have read over and over that 10-22's while of higher build quality than Marlin 60's, are not as accurate out of the box. Apparently, ...


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Old July 7th, 2012, 06:26 AM   #1
 
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Most common 10-22 mods

I have read over and over that 10-22's while of higher build quality than Marlin 60's, are not as accurate out of the box. Apparently, to make it more accurate, one must purchase a number of after market parts for it.

Well, I have no plans to modify mine, but I am wondering- just what are the most common modifications that folks do in the name of greater accuracy?



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Old July 7th, 2012, 06:31 AM   #2
 
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they are perfect the way they are but an extended mag release is great. BX-25 mags are extremely dependable. thats all i have dont to mine. BSA Sweet 22 scopes
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Old July 7th, 2012, 09:01 AM   #3
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ditto1958 View Post
I have read over and over that 10-22's while of higher build quality than Marlin 60's, are not as accurate out of the box.
Not sure that's entirely correct.

Both will more than likely require some testing ammo to shoot their best. 10/22's are modified more often, mostly because there's a pile of aftermarket replacements for every screw, spring, you name it.

Most guys with a mind to tinker will swap a barrel as a first operation, and replace the stock. Trigger parts are likely next, and can make a big difference.

Stock 10/22's can shoot extremely well with the right ammo. Mine will turn in 3/4" for 10 shots with a couple types, 4"+ with some bulk stuff.
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Old July 7th, 2012, 10:22 AM   #4
 
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Yeah, TMan51, mine will too as long as it's not me shooting it..............lol. It's really new and I haven't had a chance to sight it in although it did pretty well first time at the range.
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Old July 7th, 2012, 12:49 PM   #5
 
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Quote:
I have read over and over that 10-22's while of higher build quality than Marlin 60's, are not as accurate out of the box.
I hear that all the time but that has not been my experience.
Both my 10/22's are absolutely stock and are very accurate. One was built in 1984 and one was built in 2012. Try sighting in with a variety of ammo. Don't make any decisions till you have at least a brick of ammo through it. The new ones come with an extended mag release. If there is a weak point it is the amount of force required to release the trigger. However, neither of mine are so bad that they would need to be replaced immediately. The older one has worn in to the point where I can live with it.


Here is my old one; five shots at 50 yards


The old one; five shots at 25 yards with the stock iron sights.


Here is my new one; five shots at 25 yards. Haven't taken the time to go to 50 with it yet.




Keep in mind that this is with run of the mill ammo. There is plenty of ammo out there that will give better results (especially at longer distances) if your gun likes it.

Last edited by xl_target; July 7th, 2012 at 01:00 PM. Reason: adding photos
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Old July 7th, 2012, 04:01 PM   #6
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ditto1958 View Post
I have read over and over that 10-22's while of higher build quality than Marlin 60's, are not as accurate out of the box. Apparently, to make it more accurate, one must purchase a number of after market parts for it.

Well, I have no plans to modify mine, but I am wondering- just what are the most common modifications that folks do in the name of greater accuracy?

I replaced the factory hammer/spring with the VQ Target hammer/spring...night and day difference on trigger pull...doesn't affect the accuracy of the gun itself...but it definitely made it much, much, much easier for me to squeeze off a shot without pulling it off aim...If I was going to do one thing and one thing only to a 10/22 that would be it...

Next for me...I had tons of jams until I replaced the extractor with with a sharp claw...

While I was at it I removed the paint from the inside of the receiver and sanded down the bumpy surface of the casting were the bolt rides...

Used a lot of Dri-Lube on the bolt, trigger, receiver, charging handle/rod etc...

Also took out the bolt release and modified it myself to be able to charge from open bolt without fiddling with the latch...works like a normal auto-loader now which is a very minor thing to fix but makes a huge difference to me...

Mine was produced before they came from factory with extended mag release...this is a must have...period...

$50 for the hammer and spring, $12 for the extractor and some time and tinkering made the gun 10 times more fun to shoot than ever before...

Put Williams peep sights on it...higher than factory sight line makes it easier to get sight picture...rear sight blade no longer blocks view of everything below point of aim...about doubles the sight radius with a fiber optic front sight (also known as "fire sight")...bright and can be in the brightest sunlight with black target you loose the front post with factory sight...with this one it puts the super bright red dot right on any background light or dark...shows up extremely well even on the red printed targets...great out to 50 yards...with removable aperture I can do alright (not great) at 100 yards...so I would say way, way, way better than stock...and pretty darned good out to 50 yards...personally, I need a scope to be very good past 50 yards but don't really like scopes much...

Been looking at barrels recently...started out wanting to to with a factory 16.5" barrel to make it shorter/lighter...it will take 3 ounces off the total weight...not a huge amount but when you add 3 ounces to the end of a long barrel you get the leverage multiplier effect...so removing 3 ounces off the end of the rifle makes it noticeably lighter...not sure about the accuracy of a 16.5" factory barrel vs a 18.5" factory barrel...hard to believe there would be much...and the factory barrel is dove-tailed for any open sight post you want to put on...so I am still considering that...

Didn't want to make the gun a lot heavier with a bull barrel...but recently I see that two manufacturers make 16" aluminum bull barrels that weight less than 16 ounces...my current factory barrel is 28oz...the factory compact 16" barrel is 25oz... these are target barrels with match grade chambers and supposed to be extremely accurate compared to factory chambered/tapered barrels...the whistle pig barrel is 2.5 inches shorter and barely more than half the weight...

Definitely considering this option very strongly...I am sure it will be more accurate and with the weight reduction I might no mind the scope so much...

As for your question regarding accuracy alone...having a barrel that shoots more expensive match grade ammo with tighter groups at longer ranges won't do much for you without a scope...I am considering it more for the weight than increased accuracy since I will most likely do 90% of my shooting with open sights at 50yrds or less with mini-mags...

One thing that the barrel/scope combo opens up for me tho is silhouette shooting competition...used to do that with high-power back in the day...no longer can do that...a light weight 22 with a scope and affordable ammo changes everything...

I already know I can't hit many 1/5 scale rams at 100 yrs off hand with open sights and a factory barrel regardless of ammo...

Everything I have read about the Whistle Pig and Tacsol aluminum barrels so far is very positive...the only complaint I recall coming across is that they are so light some people can't steady their aim...but I think those are bench rest shooters...

Bench rest shooting is good for adjusting your sights and comparing ammo/parts whatever...as for a hobby...way to boring for me...rather walk around shooting at twigs on the ground or something than punching paper...silhouettes are fun because the are hard to hit and fall down when you hit them...lol...

So I would say what mods people do is based on as many different reasons as there are people doing them...

Tons of people are tactical-crazy because they think it looks cool...others do it because they are into run-n-gun competition...others have to have the finest of everything...some of them are works of art...some are accurate as a laser beam...

I am back into shooting again for fun for the first time in ages and it's because I had a real nice 10/22 that is affordable to modify and shoot...

Mag capacity at 10 rounds is fine for hunting but for plinking and fun shooting you just gotta have a 25 rounder... my TI 25 round mag is a great mod if you consider it a mod...

I didn't mention stocks specifically...but if the stock doesn't fit you well it won't be accurate...I love my walnut sporter stock...compared to MOST hunter-style stocks on other rifles I have ever had/shot/held/seen the sporter stock is superior fit for me...and is very nice for bench rest with sand bags...very pretty too...however, shooting off hand the right thumb-hole stock is much better for comfortable aiming off-hand...

For most 10/22's the sporter stock would be considered a mod or upgrade and IMO is much better and nice than the other stocks the factory offers...except the Talo...which is just a fancier checking and decorated version of the sporter stock...and they are both available on ebay as new take offs...so that could be a nice mod depending on what someone has and what they like...
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Old July 7th, 2012, 04:11 PM   #7
 
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no mods on mine (beyond having fun with new mags, etc). just got it a month or so ago (in full disclosure, this is my first firearm, so doubtless there are many more experienced folks here to chime in, but i thought i'd put my two cents in, for what they're worth. having said that, i bought a cheap bushnell scope, and i've had major trouble sighting it in (mostly due to ring mounts that didn't snug down right, and my own inexpertise), but having said that, when i was trying to sight in at 50 yards, and was down and left, i obviously went up and right and was pretty much in the 9s and 10s on my targets, with no groupings being more than an inch or so wide, and again, that's with a seriously messed up scope mount. not saying i have mad skills here or anything, just saying i suspect there isn't a collossal difference. just my hunch, but...
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Old July 7th, 2012, 04:37 PM   #8
 
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Ammo is the main test you will make for ANY rimfire..Then I would change the trigger, I changed over a 7722 without changing barrel.. It is a tack driver I thin trigger jobs are a must do Just my opinion..your MMV

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Old July 7th, 2012, 04:38 PM   #9
 
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Yes you are correct a cheap scope is not going to hold zero or last as long a high quality one...good scopes work great...but they add weight...cost a lot...imo take longer to bring on point...always seem to need attention...have to be handled with extra care...other than that...no problems...lol...

The grouping of the rounds being tight at a given distance when the variation is NOT due to the person pulling the trigger is what determines how accurate the gun itself is with a given ammo...everything else is relative that...typically this 10/22 from the factory will do well at 50 yrds...and at 50 yrds you can still see your target with pin-point accuracy with open sights...so if it is comfortable and the trigger is smooth...and you aren't trying to shoot the wings of a fly at 100yrds imo they are fine...but with a few cheap mods they are a lot nicer to own/shoot imo...
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Old July 8th, 2012, 02:52 AM   #10
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZommyGun View Post
Yes you are correct a cheap scope is not going to hold zero or last as long a high quality one...good scopes work great...but they add weight...cost a lot...imo take longer to bring on point...always seem to need attention...have to be handled with extra care...other than that...no problems...lol...
I scoped my 10/22 and my 77/22 VBZ with 2X-7X Nikon Prostaff scopes, specifically the slug gun models. On sale for $149 at the time. I've had zero problems with either, adjustments are precise and predictable, and 7X will get 99% of the accuracy you can achieve with the .22LR over the range it's effective, even shooting prairie dogs.

Triggers drew a lot of comments, and they do make a lot of difference for precision shooting. Try looking at a target while dry firing from a stable rest. The amount of effort you put into the pull affects how much the rifle moves when the sear breaks. The 10/22 with the synthetic stock is pretty light, and is a good example of the effect. My 77/22 is a tank of a rimfire rifle, and weighs more than my Whelen elk rifle. I swapped the sear for a Rifle Basix, and installed a lighter spring from Wolf. Let off is about 2.5lbs. If I take the time to sort Winchester or Federal by weight and rim thickness, it will keep 10 shots under 1/2" every time from a bench @ 50yds. The 10/22 is headed for a Green Mountain 0.920 fluted bull barrel and Hogue stock, and I'm hoping it shoots as well as the 77/22 when I'm done.
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Old July 8th, 2012, 04:00 AM   #11
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while on the discussion of scopes, I had a +$400 Hawke Sidewinder 30 (lifetime warranty)on my 10/22 which didn't last long before the windage adjustment quit. Since I bought it on the internet Hawke won't even accept emails or talk to me without an original receipt.
I put a 4-16 Centerpoint ($67.00)from Walmart on it. I have been using it over a year and I like it so much I now have one for each of my pellet rifles, My Henry Lever, and when I get another 22 rifle it will have one. I bought a Mueller, I still have it, but optics are not that great (for my eyes)
Most folks at the range I shoot, their 10/22's have every part changed except the receiver housing. I've put a revolution stock on mine and I am using a modified Hornet trigger. It shoots good enough for me.
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Old July 8th, 2012, 06:41 AM   #12
 
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Are factory walnut sporter stocks out there for sale? Can I get one for a reasonable price? Or would I be better off just buying the whole gun?
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