Looking for recommendation for barrelThis is a discussion on Looking for recommendation for barrel within the Ruger 10/22 Rimfire forums, part of the Rifle & Shotgun Forum category; I am looking for the best bang for the buck for a .920" Fluted, Bull Barrel, Stainless 20" for my 10/22. Any suggestions? Not looking ...  |
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October 17th, 2011, 04:25 PM
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#1 |
Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 13
| Looking for recommendation for barrel
I am looking for the best bang for the buck for a .920" Fluted, Bull Barrel, Stainless 20" for my 10/22. Any suggestions? Not looking to break the bank, but to do want it to be a tack driver.
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October 17th, 2011, 05:23 PM
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#2 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Maine
Posts: 4,408
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Originally Posted by fearme4ever I am looking for the best bang for the buck for a .920" Fluted, Bull Barrel, Stainless 20" for my 10/22. Any suggestions? Not looking to break the bank, but to do want it to be a tack driver. | Well, hopefully you do understand there's a lot to a "tack driver" than just the barrel. It's a full package and a full package doesn't come cheap and if you're really serious about wanting a "tack driver", compromising for the best bang for the buck is kinda not the method to adhere to. Now for a GOOD informal target gun, there's routes to take that won't break the bank yet still provide performance that will surely make most folks quite satisfied.
Now since you're asking specifically for a stainless, 20" fluted .920 profile barrel and you mentioned "bang for buck", I gotta suggest a Green Mt. There's certainly better but also many worse. I wouldn't call them match grade but at appropriate distances, set up properly, could drive a tack or two.
If it's performance you're striving for, since you posted you "want it be a tack driver" consider concentrating more on that aspect than the visual.
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October 17th, 2011, 06:26 PM
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#3 |
Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 13
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Stainless is because I live in Portland, Oregon, and fluted is because I want it to disappiate<SP> heat. Not worried about the looks, just dont want it to rust, is why I choice Stainless. I have done the trigger job, and have it down to about 5 pounds right now, with the trigger ad sear polished. Bolt release mod completed. Bore Punch hole waiting for drill press to become available. Bolt polished and cambered. Bolt Carrier polished. Scope mounted. 12 years in Marine Corps, got the breathing, aim, sight picture, and trigger control down. Completely understand "tack driver" is not just a barrel. Can currently put 25 rounds in less than a quarter sized hole, at 25, but want a better barrel. Thank you for the choice of Green Mountain.
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October 17th, 2011, 06:33 PM
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#4 |
Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: No. California
Posts: 78
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Chased the idea over the past 30 years owning numerous 10-22's
Ended up with what personally is felt as the ideal LIGHT WEIGHT sporting 22 RF tack driver.
Hogue overmold stock in .920" channel
Butler creek Carbon over Stainless barrel
SWEET !! trigger block work having a 2# pull and zero creep.
Receiver/bolt and entire action honed and polished where the wear points have shown up after 1000's of rounds done over years of ownership ... It is for a rim fire far short of my Winchester 52. but for a semi auto field gun stupid accurate.
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October 17th, 2011, 08:11 PM
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#5 |
Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 13
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Thanks for the insight. Building this one for girlfriend and want her to be able to try and out shoot me. Shooting well gives her confidence, in her shooting abilities.
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October 18th, 2011, 12:47 PM
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#6 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Maine
Posts: 4,408
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stainless for rust: ok, but a blued obe will last just as well if it's cared for too.
flutes for heat disipation: hmmm...just how fast ya gonna be shooting to have to worry about heat being enough to be a performance issue?
Get a GOOD barrel and that group can be done out at 75 yds or even 100 with the right ammo. yeah, don;t forget it's also not just grab brand A and expect it to be the one. Likely gonna take trying a bunch of different types to see what your particualr barrel shoots best. "Tack driver" can certainly mean GOOD ammo, aka, the pricier stuff)
Now as this os for the g/f, you are letting HER decide on the components. and the whole visual aspect right? After all, it will be hers.
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October 18th, 2011, 02:56 PM
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#7 |
Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 13
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Thanks BlackHawk. After I get the barrel, I am going to have to put quite a few rounds through it to find the right ammo for the setup.
As far as letting her decide on components, she gets no choice. Her requirements were "I want to be able to outshoot you." So, with that said, I have to give her the best stuff I can afford at the time. Then I will build mine, to a comperable level and see what we can do. I also got lucky, in that she doesnt care what things look like, if they perform. She did pick me......<L>
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October 18th, 2011, 03:23 PM
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#8 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Maine
Posts: 4,408
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Well ok...  Thais being the case, why not save a bit more, get a bit more AND make it look nice to boot. Check out Whistle Pig. They'll be lighter in weight, shoot better and look REALLY good. This is your g/f remember, don't skimp. |
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October 18th, 2011, 03:46 PM
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#9 |
Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 13
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Thanks for the information. Never heard of them before and they are local, only 25 miles form my house. Not sure about aluminum barrels with steel liners though?
Dissimilar metal corrosion? Wear on the liner? Will the liner move in the aluminum housing?
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October 18th, 2011, 04:48 PM
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#10 |
Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Maine
Posts: 4,408
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They've and others have been doing it for quite some time now and I've never heard even a peep of any issues with the different materials or the liner. I have 3 currently and will surely get more in due time. Accurate? Oh Yeah!  Louis is a great to deal with too. Not all finished available at all times (anodizing done somewhere else locally I believe) but lead times aren't bad at all. They have a darn god rep over on RFC too.
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