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changing barrels

This is a discussion on changing barrels within the Ruger 10/22 Rimfire forums, part of the Rifle & Shotgun Forum category; If one buys an after market 10/22 barrel from a vendor, such as Middway or green mountain, Kidd or wherever. Will it require gunsmith services ...


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Old August 9th, 2010, 02:56 PM   #1
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changing barrels

If one buys an after market 10/22 barrel from a vendor, such as Middway or green mountain, Kidd or wherever. Will it require gunsmith services to install the barrel.?
Or will it be machined with the correct headspacing?



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Old August 9th, 2010, 03:05 PM   #2
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It shouldn't require any gunsmithing. The most common 'issue' that often occurs when putting in an aftermarket barrel is that trying to put the end of the barrel into the receiver is often very, very tight. This is usually due to the coating on the outside of the receiver. This can often be relieved by lightly sanding the shank at the end of the barrel a little at a time and using light oil until the barrel can be pushed in by hand but yet remain 'snug'.

Last edited by Ascii; August 9th, 2010 at 05:36 PM.
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Old August 9th, 2010, 03:29 PM   #3
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuvel View Post
If one buys an after market 10/22 barrel from a vendor, such as Middway or green mountain, Kidd or wherever. Will it require gunsmith services to install the barrel.?
Or will it be machined with the correct headspacing?
Headspace is pretty much determined by your bolt face, the countersink for the casing determines it. Your bolt face should contact the face of the barrel.
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Old August 9th, 2010, 04:00 PM   #4
 
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WHOA! Don't sand the receiver hole! You want a tight fit and sanding the receiver could very well ruin that for a later barrel swap. You want to sand the shank of the barrel not the receiver. Most will have a slightly larger shank for just such a tight fit and not necessarily the coating. A little emery cloth used equally around the shank and then a very slight amount of oil.

Last edited by BlkHawk73; August 9th, 2010 at 05:02 PM.
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Old August 9th, 2010, 05:00 PM   #5
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlkHawk73 View Post
WHOA! Don't sand the receiver hole! You want a tight fit and sanding the receiver could very well ruin that for a later barrel swap. You want to sand the shank of the barrel not the receiver. Most will have a slightly larger shank for just such a tight fit and not necessarily the coating. A little emery cloth used equally around the shank and then a very slight amount of oil.
+1
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Old August 9th, 2010, 05:27 PM   #6
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlkHawk73 View Post
WHOA! Don't sand the receiver hole! You want a tight fit and sanding the receiver could very well ruin that for a later barrel swap. You want to sand the shank of the barrel not the receiver. Most will have a slightly larger shank for just such a tight fit and not necessarily the coating. A little emery cloth used equally around the shank and then a very slight amount of oil.

Kano Aero-Kroil is your friend for tight installs. We use it for gears and sheaves at work, it is phenomenal stuff.
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Old August 9th, 2010, 05:29 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlkHawk73 View Post
WHOA! Don't sand the receiver hole! You want a tight fit and sanding the receiver could very well ruin that for a later barrel swap. You want to sand the shank of the barrel not the receiver. Most will have a slightly larger shank for just such a tight fit and not necessarily the coating. A little emery cloth used equally around the shank and then a very slight amount of oil.
+1 Dunce Cap for me, thanks for catching my mistake. Why did I say receiver hole, I didn't even do that. You're right, sand the barrel shank.
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Old August 9th, 2010, 05:31 PM   #8
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Put the barrel in the freezer for a few hours. Once its cooled, put the receiver in the over at around 250 degrees for 20 minutes. The frozen barrel should slide right into the warm receiver.
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Old August 9th, 2010, 11:15 PM   #9
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMD
Put the barrel in the freezer for a few hours. Once its cooled, put the receiver in the over at around 250 degrees for 20 minutes. The frozen barrel should slide right into the warm receiver.
That may work for an install, but how would it ever come back out if you wanted to change it again?
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Old August 10th, 2010, 12:41 AM   #10
 
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Yeah, I don't think you want to shrink fit the two together.
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Old August 10th, 2010, 12:53 AM   #11
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Thanks a lot folks. I guess where the barrel meets the receiver, the barrel manufacturer would have to leave a little stock to account for tolerances in the receiver and lock,.

Thanks again.

Last edited by shuvel; August 10th, 2010 at 12:56 AM.
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Old August 10th, 2010, 04:43 AM   #12
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That may work for an install, but how would it ever come back out if you wanted to change it again?
A wood dowel and a mallet. Taps out fairly easy even with a tight fit.
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Old August 11th, 2010, 01:03 PM   #13
 
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To remove the barrel if tight, simply heat the receiver with a heat gun. The aluminum will expand more than the steel as it has a higher expansion rate than the steel.
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Old August 11th, 2010, 01:30 PM   #14
 
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penetration oil, a brand new allen wrench, a propper padded vise a very short cheater bar and MUCHO Patience!
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