I know there has been a lot of talk and threads on the new poly trigger housings on the 10-22's.
If you like the metal housing, I'll give you a reason to like it more.
If you like the Poly housing, this may or may not change your mind.
If you don't care, this post may or may not matter to you.
I just bought a new 10-22 to do some accuracy experiments on. It has the Poly housing.
Myself, I really liked the metal housing and was very disappointed (Peed off) when Ruger changed it.
I would have bought a used rifle, but it was important to me to have a new rifle for my experiments.
I ordered a new metal trigger housing from Power Custom for $25.00. (you can get the metal housing, metal trigger and mag release for $35.00.)
I measured the inside of the new poly trigger housing. It varied as much as .004" in width inside the housing.
The new metal housing I got was painted inside and out. I took a medium stone and smoothed the inside of the housing. I just smoothed the paint and did not get to bare metal. It ended up as smooth as a baby's butt.
The metal housing only varied 1/2 of one thousanth of an inch (.0005") on the inside of the housing. Pretty darn good.
Here is the problem. If you want the best possible trigger job without spending the money for a Jard or other custom trigger group, the metal trigger housing is going to give you the best and longest lasting trigger.
I measured the inside of the poly housing where the striker pin was and it measured .5075" wide. I then measured the inside of the housing where the sear/trigger hole was and it measured .5105" wide. That is a difference of .003".
When doing a trigger job, you want the ledge/notch of the striker to match up in the same place with the edge of the sear every time.
With .003" difference, the two surfaces can mate in different places every time the gun is cocked. It can also cam at angles.
Both are not condusive to a top quality trigger pull and can increase wear of the two surfaces.
It will let the trigger pull change a very small amount each time you pull the trigger.
True, you could put shims in to make up the difference, but which side do you put them on.
The poly housing is slightly squeezed when put in the top of the receiver and it can change a little every time it's taken out or put back in.
You may think that I'm being a little anal, but as a retired gunsmith, who always had a micrometer within arms reach and checked everything, it's really not.
It's the attention to the small details that make the most accurite, longest lasting weapons with the most repeatable trigger.
I have used shims on the inside of the metal housing, but I knew that the inside dimentions were not going to change.
A cast housing that is machined will always be more consistant than an injected poly piece, especially one as large as the 10-22 trigger group.
Bottom line. if you want the best trigger that will keep a good trigger for the longest time before it needs touching up, the metal housing is hands down the way to go.
If you are going to change out the poly housing, you will need the old style striker and the two bushings that fit in the sides of the striker. You will have to find a old style striker.
The striker in the poly housing does not have the bushings (it's wider) and looks like a really rough cast piece. The metal is cast, not machined like the striker in the old model so I would think it not hold as good of a trigger job and not wear as long as the old striker.
The old one; really good quality machined metal.(I'm 90 % sure it was a cast piece that was in the poly housing, it hit the garbage can as soon as it came out of the housing).
Please don't make this a which is better post, we have had enough of them.
I posted this for info purposes for those who want the best possible trigger in a stock trigger housing.
I'm a retired gunsmith and have done a lot of 10-22 triggers, so I do know what I am talking about.
I now sometimes help out Scott at S&S Sporting. If you want a really good trigger in your 10-22, contact Scott @ 208-313-1570.
He can change out the poly trigger group far cheaper than buying a Jard,
You will need to send the poly group as some of the parts will be needed from it. He can just do a trigger job on the poly housing if your money is tight.
The only improvement Ruger could sight with the Poly group was that the trigger guard would not break as easy if the rifle was dropped. I think we all know the real reason. They saved about 75 cents per rifle.
Best Regards, John K
If you like the metal housing, I'll give you a reason to like it more.
If you like the Poly housing, this may or may not change your mind.
If you don't care, this post may or may not matter to you.
I just bought a new 10-22 to do some accuracy experiments on. It has the Poly housing.
Myself, I really liked the metal housing and was very disappointed (Peed off) when Ruger changed it.
I would have bought a used rifle, but it was important to me to have a new rifle for my experiments.
I ordered a new metal trigger housing from Power Custom for $25.00. (you can get the metal housing, metal trigger and mag release for $35.00.)
I measured the inside of the new poly trigger housing. It varied as much as .004" in width inside the housing.
The new metal housing I got was painted inside and out. I took a medium stone and smoothed the inside of the housing. I just smoothed the paint and did not get to bare metal. It ended up as smooth as a baby's butt.
The metal housing only varied 1/2 of one thousanth of an inch (.0005") on the inside of the housing. Pretty darn good.
Here is the problem. If you want the best possible trigger job without spending the money for a Jard or other custom trigger group, the metal trigger housing is going to give you the best and longest lasting trigger.
I measured the inside of the poly housing where the striker pin was and it measured .5075" wide. I then measured the inside of the housing where the sear/trigger hole was and it measured .5105" wide. That is a difference of .003".
When doing a trigger job, you want the ledge/notch of the striker to match up in the same place with the edge of the sear every time.
With .003" difference, the two surfaces can mate in different places every time the gun is cocked. It can also cam at angles.
Both are not condusive to a top quality trigger pull and can increase wear of the two surfaces.
It will let the trigger pull change a very small amount each time you pull the trigger.
True, you could put shims in to make up the difference, but which side do you put them on.
The poly housing is slightly squeezed when put in the top of the receiver and it can change a little every time it's taken out or put back in.
You may think that I'm being a little anal, but as a retired gunsmith, who always had a micrometer within arms reach and checked everything, it's really not.
It's the attention to the small details that make the most accurite, longest lasting weapons with the most repeatable trigger.
I have used shims on the inside of the metal housing, but I knew that the inside dimentions were not going to change.
A cast housing that is machined will always be more consistant than an injected poly piece, especially one as large as the 10-22 trigger group.
Bottom line. if you want the best trigger that will keep a good trigger for the longest time before it needs touching up, the metal housing is hands down the way to go.
If you are going to change out the poly housing, you will need the old style striker and the two bushings that fit in the sides of the striker. You will have to find a old style striker.
The striker in the poly housing does not have the bushings (it's wider) and looks like a really rough cast piece. The metal is cast, not machined like the striker in the old model so I would think it not hold as good of a trigger job and not wear as long as the old striker.
The old one; really good quality machined metal.(I'm 90 % sure it was a cast piece that was in the poly housing, it hit the garbage can as soon as it came out of the housing).
Please don't make this a which is better post, we have had enough of them.
I posted this for info purposes for those who want the best possible trigger in a stock trigger housing.
I'm a retired gunsmith and have done a lot of 10-22 triggers, so I do know what I am talking about.
I now sometimes help out Scott at S&S Sporting. If you want a really good trigger in your 10-22, contact Scott @ 208-313-1570.
He can change out the poly trigger group far cheaper than buying a Jard,
You will need to send the poly group as some of the parts will be needed from it. He can just do a trigger job on the poly housing if your money is tight.
The only improvement Ruger could sight with the Poly group was that the trigger guard would not break as easy if the rifle was dropped. I think we all know the real reason. They saved about 75 cents per rifle.
Best Regards, John K