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Ejection Problem

This is a discussion on Ejection Problem within the Ruger 10/22 Rimfire forums, part of the Rifle & Shotgun Forum category; I know it is common for 10/22's to have ejection problems but what is the best fix? with poor ammo i tend to have a ...


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Old April 7th, 2009, 08:58 AM   #1
 
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Ejection Problem

I know it is common for 10/22's to have ejection problems but what is the best fix? with poor ammo i tend to have a failure to eject every 5-7 rounds. I found some ammo she likes but i still tend to jam about every 20 rounds. cleaning is not an issue as i have cleaned it thoroughly and I am starting to get frustrated.



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Old April 7th, 2009, 09:19 AM   #2
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trptplyr17, After you get 10 posts, check out the MK Series IBOK in the Library. This very issue is detailed. The best "fix" is to replace the extractor with a Power Custom extractor ($11), Brownell P/N 713-000-067. See: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...00-067&s=48185
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Old April 7th, 2009, 09:19 AM   #3
 
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trptplyr17, is your 10/22 problem a failure to eject or failure to extract? If the extractor in the bolt head is failing to extract the spent shell from the chamber, or losing the shell before it strikes the ejector, the fix normally just requires reshaping the extractor hook. There are also several good aftermarket extractors that come with the reshaped hook but it is easy to modify your extractor if you have the pattern. When you get to 10 legitimate posts on this site, you will gain access to the library, which contains several "how to" guides (IBOK's) authored by a retired gunsmith who goes by Iowegan on this forum site. His 10/22 IBOK provides the pattern for reshaping your extractor. Good luck and good day/JimH
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Old April 7th, 2009, 09:24 AM   #4
 
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The case is not left in the chamber. It usually gets caught when the bolt closes at the end of the cycle. Someone once told me that sometimes the bolt can cause to much friction when it blows back and this results in not having enough energy to fully extract the case. Is there any legitimacy to this?
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Old April 7th, 2009, 09:38 AM   #5
 
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trptplyr17, I'd replace the extractor as Iowegan recommended in his post and check the other main points he covers in his IBOK while you're in there. I'd be surprised if this doesn't fix it. Good luck and good day/JimH
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Old April 8th, 2009, 06:17 AM   #6
 
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Thanks guys, I just downloaded IBOK's for 10/22, MK, GP, and SP and I cant wait to get some time to try my hand at your recommendations. I just need to get a few tools first.

Iowegan, Is there material in the MK IBOK that relates to the 10/22?
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Old April 8th, 2009, 11:01 AM   #7
 
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I was just about to purchase the extractor and noticed it comes in titanium and A-2 steel. they are the same price so I was wondering if there was any functional difference in the 2?
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Old April 8th, 2009, 04:46 PM   #8
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trptplyr17 View Post
I was just about to purchase the extractor and noticed it comes in titanium and A-2 steel. they are the same price so I was wondering if there was any functional difference in the 2?
trptplyr17, there should be little functional difference. Both are made by Power Custom to apparently the same dimensions. Titanium will be silver colored and A-2 will be black. I expect the Titanium version would be a bit slicker than the A-2 but either should work fine. Good luck and good day/JimH
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Old April 8th, 2009, 06:38 PM   #9
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trptplyr17, Iowegan, Is there material in the MK IBOK that relates to the 10/22? Oops! Brain cells gone bad. I meant the 10/22 of course .... however, now that you mention it, both the 10/22 and MK Series pistols use the same exact extractor and have the exact same issues. The factory extractor is a stamped part that is often mis-shaped. The Power Custom extractors are machined and are shaped slightly different ... resulting in much better extraction with all brands of ammo.
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Old April 9th, 2009, 06:18 AM   #10
 
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I've put a few thousand rounds through my 10/22 and have never had a problem with the extractor. However, I just bought a new hammer from cheapgunparts and got one of the packages with a new extractor. Just seemed like a good idea. It was much easier to replace than I thought it was going to be.

Btw, I love the new hammer, trigger pull=MUCH better!
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Old April 10th, 2009, 07:37 AM   #11
 
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I'm feeling your guys pain.

My first ever 10/22 is slowly turning into a jam-a-matic.
I'm not complaining though. I long ago lost track of how many bricks have gone through it. It's still more accurate than my newer 10/22's and I'm not about to retire it. Probably just needs a few new action parts to freshen it up.
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Old April 10th, 2009, 08:31 PM   #12
 
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yeah its really a shame to have such good gun have such a frustrating problem. but hopefully it wil soon be solved!
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Old April 11th, 2009, 06:44 AM   #13
 
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I just need a little time to sort it out. Lastnight I checked the extracter and found that the hook extends to far forward and is not doing a good job of hold the brass against the bolt face till ejection.
I've got a torch and some Kasenite so I just need to heat it, shorten it and re-harden it with Kasenite.
We'll see if that helps.
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Old April 11th, 2009, 07:13 AM   #14
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There seems to be some confusion about extraction in a 10/22 (same goes for a MK Series pistol). The only time an extractor in a blow back semi-auto 22 actually extracts a round is when you manually pull the operating handle back. In a gas operated semi-auto like a Mini-14 or AR-15, the gas piston pushes the bolt back and the extractor actually pulls the spent case from the chamber. When a round is fired in a 10/22 (or MK series pistol), the internal pressure blows both the case and the bolt back so there's really no such thing as a "failure to extract" because pressure will always push the case out of the chamber (assuming good ammo). The extractor in a 10/22 or MK series pistol should really be called a "holder" because that's it's real job ... to hold the case against the bolt face until the bolt is driven back far enough where the case head strikes the ejector and flings it out the ejection port.

The problem with extractors is they may be mishaped from the factory or they get dull from shooting 1000's of rounds. A bad extractor will let go of the case before it strikes the ejector, resulting in a failure to eject. This will leave the spent case in the receiver and cause a jam. Any time you see a spent case in the receiver, a dull or misshaped extractor is to blame. Magazines can compound the issue because they may interfere with the spent case and cause it to break loose from the extractor. If you have a nice sharp extractor that holds the case rim solid, a factory magazine will seldom cause problems. Accumulated powder crud in the bolt can also cause ejection problems.

A failure to feed is when the fresh cartridge doesn't get chambered properly. This could be caused by the magazine or a cruddy bolt face. It can also be "barrel droop" from over tightened "V" block screws. Extractors are also used to hold the case in position when feeding so a faulty extractor may cause feeding problems too. In MK series pistols, the lips on the magazine often have very sharp under edges that will increase friction so much that it may cause feeding problems. Aftermarket hi-cap magazines are a common source of feeding problems as are tight chambers in match grade barrels, especially with cheaper bulk pack ammo.

The last issue is ammo. Standard 10/22s and MK Series pistols should feed and extract any long rifle ammo. If your gun is "fussy" with certain brands, chances are your extractor is to blame. Some bulk pack ammo is notorious for the "bang ... pop" syndrome where the powder charge is so irregular you can actually hear a difference in the report. A light powder charge may not develop enough thrust to push the bolt all the way back. This can cause both feeding and ejection problems that are not the gun's fault. This is very common with Remington Golden Bullet bulk pack ammo and occasionally with Federal bulk pack ammo. All bulk pack ammo have occasional duds where the round fails to fire. This is caused in the manufacturing process where the priming compound is not distributed in the entire rim, leaving voids. Usually you can rotate the dud cartridge 90 degrees, rechamber it, and it will fire. Ammo that comes in 50 or 100 round packs are a better grade and seldom cause problems.

I hope this helps clear up "extractor" issues. Keep in mind, extractors do wear out and are often defective in new guns. The best "fix" is to replace the factory extractor with a Power Custom extractor that is a machined part, not a stamped part. They work much better with all brands of ammo, last much longer, and are the best $11 you will ever spend. See: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...AW%20EXTRACTOR
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Old April 11th, 2009, 09:58 AM   #15
 
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Iowegan,

Very nice write up. No doubt you’ve dealt with this problem more than a few times.
In my case the empties are blowing themselves out of the chamber quite nicely but apparently the extractor is not doing a good job of holding the spent brass against the face of the bolt and they end up stove piping. The extractor I have in there now is either a power custom or Volquartsen, I don’t recall which. It’s got a good sharp hook but I think the problem is that the opening of the hook extends to far forward and is not holding the rim of the brass against the bolt face. I’ve got a stock Ruger extracter that I’ll try shortening. And see if that helps.
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