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Bedding a stock with JB weld?

This is a discussion on Bedding a stock with JB weld? within the Rifles forums, part of the Rifle & Shotgun Forum category; Hey guys, looking for some advice on improving the accuracy out of my Savage model 111 in 30-06. It's a non accu-trigger, non accu-stock model ...


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Old April 3rd, 2014, 12:03 PM   #1
 
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Bedding a stock with JB weld?

Hey guys, looking for some advice on improving the accuracy out of my Savage model 111 in 30-06. It's a non accu-trigger, non accu-stock model savage with a standard barrel tapper. The stock is a piece of junk and has way too much flex at the forend. the trigger is set to break around 70 pound's...I mean 7 pounds, I have been looking at replacement parts such as a rifle basix trigger and a boyd's laminate stock. It's a hunting rifle so I don't by any means expect leaser beam accuracy after these upgrades but would like to shrink my groups down a tad. I live on the small island of Canada so trying to find parts is a real pleasure! I was looking into bedding the new stock with JB weld, because I can't find any bedding compound locally, or American companies that are willing to ship. What I am wondering is after applying the compound will it bond properly to the laminate stock? Has anyone used this product to bed there action before? In theory it seems like a good idea....any input will be great!

Thanks!



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Old April 3rd, 2014, 12:53 PM   #2
 
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Stock Bedding & Adhesives | Stock Work & Finishing at Brownells
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Old April 3rd, 2014, 01:49 PM   #3
 
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jb weld

J B Weld can be used to bed a stock. I've used JB before but never to bed a stock. There are some good videos on YouTube on stock bedding. I suggest you look them over.
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Old April 4th, 2014, 05:37 AM   #4
 
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Do you hand load ? That may be all it will take is finding a load the rifle likes........
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Old April 4th, 2014, 06:43 AM   #5
 
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I've used JB Weld to bed the front action block and tang and on Ruger M77 MkII synthetic stocks and it worked great. JB Weld has a ridiculously low cure shrinkage rate, and expansion rate in temperture extremes is also extremely low. Youtube is a great resource for the specifics, but when doing mine I used plasticene clay as a dam to keep the epoxy in the area I wanted it, and was sure to really dig into the polymer of the stock with my grinder so the JB Weld could 'bite' into the surface and create a strong mechanical lock. Also, be sure to degrease thoroughly with acetone, ethanol/methanol/alcohol isn't recommended. I used auto wax as a mold release for the action.

For real accuracy gains, I recommend handloading as well. your Savage probably has a 1 in 10" twist, which will stabilize heavier bullets well. Depending what you're hunting, I've had good luck with fire-formed cases, a Lee neck sizing die, and the Lee crimper. Load-wise, I've had success with H4350 and 165 grain Hornady SST bullets, IMR 4064 and 150 grain Hornady SST bullets, and excellent accuracy from IMR 4831, magnum primers, and 220 grain Hornady roundnose bullets. Good luck, and tell us how you do!
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Old April 4th, 2014, 08:17 AM   #6
 
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Thanks guys! As of now I do not hand load, but have been saving all the brass I have ever shot from the rifle which is around 300 rounds. It is something I really want to take up in the near future. With the cost of ammo running as high as it is, it will be well worth my free time to do so. Thanks Northbranch for the load diagnostic, and the insight on your experience with JB weld.


Quote:
Originally Posted by drt4lfe View Post
Do you hand load ? That may be all it will take is finding a load the rifle likes........
I have tried shooting a wide array of factory rounds through the rifle, from my testing I found 150 gr Winchester power point seems to settle in the best, which is funny because I shot 180 gr hornady sst superformance and I patterned around a 5 inch group at 200 yards from a bench, in ideal shooting conditions. Not really an ideal group!


This will be the first time attempting rifle bedding, so I will be sure to keep you guys posted on the progress!


Thanks again guys!
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Old April 4th, 2014, 09:08 AM   #7
 
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Sure just be darn sure you have a good release agent on the action or you will never get it apart again! A good friend of mine made this mistake with accuglass.
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Old April 9th, 2014, 10:49 PM   #8
 
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On the cheap plastic stocks (Remington) my fave material was Dexter Hysol aluminum filled Epoxy Patch (had it at work).

For wood I used Microbed (no longer made).

Have used JB Weld to fill/stiffen the hollows of a few synthetic stocks. Auto parts store carries bigger tube sets for around $16.....called "professional size". Same stuff, just more of it.
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Old April 10th, 2014, 03:20 AM   #9
 
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JB Weld should help and something else to try if you want, is aluminum pillars, you can make your own from bar stock and a drill press. I'm sure you'll free float the barrel and make sure your barrel crown is good. A couple other things to look up that you can do at home is making sure the barrel and action are true, is the bolt square to the receiver? Brownell's has lapping and truing tools to true up your action and barrel to bore axis. Your barrels like a bell, it rings when its shot so you want it to vibrate freely. Freshening up your crown never hurts. You can do all of it at home with basic tools that Midway and Brownell's sell and they even have video's to show you how.

Last edited by weldermyass; April 10th, 2014 at 03:23 AM.
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