tglazie

Hi all,

Sorry for the long winded post, but I am stepping into to new reloading territory and I very much want to hit the ground running with the .45 as well as I did at the beginning of the year with my other calibers, thanks in no small part to the great advice I received on this forum ((Lost Sheep and Iowegan in particular, with many others helping considerably)


A little background before the question-

My LGS finally got a big batch of SR1911s in and, expectedly, it only took me 2 days to break down and get one. Honestly, how can a true gun nut resist the chance to own such an amazing piece of engineering and history (and performance).

I currently load for these handguns: .380, 9mm, and .38/.357 (no hot magnum loads) and one rifle, .32 Special. The 3 powders I stock are HP38(W231), VV N320, and H4895. Primers are Federal. Equipment is a Lee Cast Turret using the Autodisk Pro powder measure. I have ordered the Lee Deluxe carbide 4 die set for .45 Auto (including the FCD, which I typically use as the 4th station, with separate seating and crimping operations). I use the Lee 4 die carbide setup for all my handgun cartridges (including .380, I ordered the FCD separately). I use once fired or range brass exclusively, except for my rifle, which I purchased new brass for (I also purchased new .357mag brass but havent loaded true magnum rounds yet). My handgun loads are primarily low to mid-range and the purpose is for target shooting. For my defensive guns (.380/9mm) I have loads that approximate my SD/HD factory ammo POI but for revolver I concern myself only with range accuracy. This will be the primary purpose of my SR1911 reloading as well. I desire the most accurate rounds possible, even if that means low and slow with little practical SD/HD application.

Ideally, and I guess this is where my question comes in finally, I would like to learn how to load a .45 Auto equivalent of the classic .38 Special 148gr HBWC over 2.7gr of Bullseye (or in my case, 3.0gr HP38). If possible, I would like to do it using either HP38 or VV N320, but thats not a requirement, just a preference. To explain why this is a preference, in my state if you live in a multi-family dwelling you are restricted to 2lbs of powder and 1K primers per fire code. I have an outbuilding where I can safely and securely keep the rest of my stock (which is where my excess powders and primers are kept), but if I were to add a 3rd handgun powder it would mean more runninn back and forth to the outbuilding. This doesnt mean I wont use a 3rd handgun powder if that is what I should be doing, it just means if there is an excellent option available using HP38/N320 powder I would prefer it.

I use hardcast (reloadsnmore.com) and plated (berrys) bullets for my other handguns and would be happy to use the same for the .45 but if there is something better I am all ears.

thoughts? opinions? any feedback is appreciated. I am very much looking forward to finding a good, clean accurate load for this gun that I can keep at or under $7-$8/box.

thanks in advance.

Spike12

I will offer this:

Try to use the W231 vs. the Bullseye. Both are good powders but I'm leaving Bullseye because it burns so dirty. My three .45ACP guns are coal black inside after only 2 mags with it.

Since you moving from .38/357 cases to a pistol round, remember that you round headspace on the case mouth not the cases base. So don't over crimp the bullets into the cases. The case mouths need to be sharp and well defined.

Your COL lengths will become much more important for the same reasons.

Your SR1911 should swallow just about any bullet type. My SA 1911 and Sig P220 eat anything. My Para SlimHawg (3" barrel) won't feed JHPs that are too flat on the sides. CorBon or Horniday XTPs won't work for that reason, for example. FMJ ball works just fine but any JHP has to have a well rounded cross section.

The "Most Accurate" can only be determined between you and you gun. Not all guns are alike thus there isn't one load that works for all.

I don't think it's realistic to expect a load for .38 is going to work well in .45acp. The pressures and power are pretty different. The bullet may come out but don't forget you now have to have enough recoil to operate the slide's cycling.

Before you shoot the SR make sure you take it down and clean it first. Also try to use a good quality ammo the first times out because most/all pistols should NOT be judged until they've had a chance to set-in a little. Too many people buy the gun, buy the cheapest ammo they can, don't clean the gun, go to the range have problems and scream that their new gun is junk and send it back.

GunLover

The W231 (same as HP38) should work well for you. I have used it in .380, 9mm, 38 spcl and .40 cal and it worked well for me. When I started loading for .357 sig I had to get a different powder and chose Longshot. It also works well in .45 acp and is a slower burning powder than W231 (but you'll use a little more) and has better felt recoil to me (not as snappy) and doesn't hurt my hand as much (I have arthritis) and at the same time it can deliver greater velocity than W231. I'd try the W231 since you have it. Hodgdons web site has loading data you can use. Longshot also makes a nice load in .357 mag and is becoming my favorite powder. I've only had my SR1911 for about a month now and it's a sweet shooting gun. Now I know why everyone likes them so much. YMMV

Iowegan

Your HP-38 powder will work fine with the classic 200 gr SWC target load. You can load as light as 4.5 gr but the best accuracy is with 5.0 gr. This load should run right at 800 fps. There is one slight modification you must make ... Ruger SR 1911s come with a pretty stiff recoil spring intended for full power factory ammo up to +P ammo. You will need to change the recoil spring to 14 lbs, otherwise the gun won't cycle. Recoil springs are available from Brownell's or Midway for about 6 bucks.

If you don't want to change springs, the factory equivalent load is a 230 gr round nose bullet with 5.6 gr of HP-38 or 5.9 gr of Unique. These are very manageable loads and are also very accurate. Personally, I like the 230 gr RN best. They tend to cycle very well in all 1911s. Some guns are a bit fussy with SWCs and may not feed well.

Both the 200 gr SWC and the 230 gr RN are available in plated or standard lead.

tglazie

Excellent info all, thanks. reloadsnmore has the 200gr LSWC and 230gr LRN for 10 and 11 cents respectively. I will get some of each and a recoil spring for the 200gr.

One last question before I get started- is it necessary or advisable to fire a certain number of FMJ through the gun before switching the lead? I had not heard of this before reading it somewhere last night. Something to do with preventing leading. Any truth to it, or is that just one more forum fable?

Thanks again

CdnInAz

hmm, I had no problem with 200 gr using the stock spring. Have logged 8663 SWC and RN, most of those at major PF. I got curious a few months ago and worked down some loads toward minor PF - SR1911 started to fail cycling just below 140 PF. So I have a nice light load with the 200 gr.

Anyway, not to argue, but worth trying 200 gr with stock spring, especially if want to also carry it with full power factory HP loads.

tglazie

Oh for sure Cdn. I will be trying it in both configurations. I am a tinkerer, so having a lighter spring on hand isnt a bad thing. I only have 3 other handguns but many springs and spare parts on hand for each. I get as much fun out of the tuning as the shooting and loading. I am guessing the SR1911 wont require much tuning but we will see.

brimic

W-231 and 200 gr SWCs is my favorite combination.
I use 200 gr SWCs dropped from a lee mould using straight W/Ws.

brimic

I've head that too, but mostly ignored it.
Its very important to get all of the copper out of the barrel before switching to lead though.

forty5

HP-38/231 and the 200 gr Lead SWC are a classic target load. Look up the data on Hodgdon Powder web site. Start with start load and work your way up in small increments until you hit the sweet spot for you gun.

tglazie

This is perfect. I was really hoping that I could find a "classic" .45 load along the same line as the .38 Special 148gr wadcutter load, and not only does it seem like I have (200gr LSWC), I can use a powder I already use to do it. It looks like I will be switching from 1lbs cans to 8lbs kegs of HP38 next time if all goes well.

I am starting to think the $700 I spent on the gun was worth it

Thanks again all.

Iowegan

CdnInAz, My SR-1911 came with an 18 lb recoil spring and absolutely would not cycle the 220 gr target loads .... a jam on every shot. I installed a 16 lb spring, which is standard for a 1911 and the target loads would cycle most of the time ... jam every 10 rounds or so. With a 14 lb spring, it cycled perfect. BTW, a 14 lb spring is recommended for this load.

Rumor has it that Ruger changed to 16 lb recoil springs a few months after they were introduced ... don't know if this is true but it might explain why your gun cycles these loads and mine doesn't. My SR was made in the initial batch, just before they were released. Also, recoil springs get weaker with use so yours may be well under 16 lbs by now. My SR hasn't been fired much ... maybe 500 rounds at most.

stargeezer

4.9gr. of 231 is my target load behind Berry`s 230gr. I plan to use the same load with lead 230gr. I just cast. I have 2500 rounds through it now and have noticed the spring is weaker, but its still working. I plan to order a replacement this week - most likely a Wilson since I use a lot of their stuff in other 1911s.

Samuel

I use 5.1 gr of HP-38 behind a 230 gr montana gold FMJ/JHP for my 1911s.4.7 gr of the same powder and bullet for all of my other .45s.

BrianL

I use Titegroup for both .45 ACP & .38 Special/.357. Its a nice fast, clean burning powder, I have used several different loads, depending on what pistol it's intended for; I use a 2.8 gr load with a 130 gr Bear Creek bullet for my 1970 vintage Model 15; a few more grains (3.2) for my Model 66. The .45 gets a 4.7 gr under 205 gr Bear Creek bullet to make power factor in IDPA, but I can go all the way down to 3.5+ and still cycle the slide.