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Resizing 357 Revolver Brass

This is a discussion on Resizing 357 Revolver Brass within the Reloading forums, part of the Firearm Forum category; Originally Posted by ozo " Uniform flash holes can help make powder ignite more uniformly"--iowegan IF it can improve ignition ANY percentage......why wouldn't you ??? ...


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Old August 18th, 2012, 06:23 AM   #16
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozo View Post
" Uniform flash holes can help make powder ignite more uniformly"--iowegan

IF it can improve ignition ANY percentage......why wouldn't you ???
You dont spend enough time on case prep?

If youre shooting from benchrest and trying to get the tightest group possible, go ahead, but for most of us, practice and learning a better technique is whats going to help us when it comes to handgun accuracy. I know uniforming flash holes is going to make no difference with my 2in SP101. Its similar to measuring powder by hand, I'm sure it could increase accuracy in handguns, but you wont see a difference in most cases and just adds on more time.



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Old August 18th, 2012, 06:33 AM   #17
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozo View Post
" it really has nothing to do with sizing brass"--iowegan

Didn't say it did.

" Uniform flash holes can help make powder ignite more uniformly"--iowegan

IF it can improve ignition ANY percentage......why wouldn't you ???
For me, the answer is the same as why I dont clean primer pockets (in handgun loads). From my response in the primer pockets thread that is open currently:

"I do not load for big game hunting or SD/HD, and with my loading process (indexing turret), cleaning pockets (or uniforming flash holes) is a significant factor in production rates. If I literally had nothing else to do I might consider it, but at this point in my life any time I save reloading is time I can spend shooting or cleaning my guns.

Additional trigger time with a clean weapon is going to improve my shooting much more than having shiny primer pockets (or uniform flash holes) will. "
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Old August 18th, 2012, 06:36 AM   #18
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Yeah, you're right. Why waste the time.
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Old August 18th, 2012, 06:41 AM   #19
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Maybe I am missing something.....I am old
I only uniform the flashhole ONCE, on new brass.....
it has never slowed down any production rates on my Dillon....
Hmmmm.....
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Old August 18th, 2012, 06:46 AM   #20
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozo View Post
Maybe I am missing something.....I am old
I only uniform the flashhole ONCE, on new brass.....
it has never slowed down any production rates on my Dillon....
Hmmmm.....
I do not use new handgun brass. Once-fired or range brass only.

Sure, for new brass, no reason not to.
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Old August 18th, 2012, 07:02 AM   #21
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryLP View Post
Why should I resize GP-100 reloads? The rounds are going to be fired (no max loads) in the same revolver, so why exercise the brass unnecessarily?
Sizing works the brass to the extent necessary, but not overly so...Case mouth belling is the one operation that can be over done and if over done will create a situation of unnecessarily exercising the brass.
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Old August 18th, 2012, 09:18 AM   #22
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowegan View Post
tglazie, No problem ... it's all related to the OPs question in one way or another.

The 50 fps max velocity spread assumes a muzzle velocity of 1000 fps ... so 5% would be a better way to express it. The "50 fps rule" originated from quality factory ammo, which is loaded to this standard. Some of the cheap crap ammo has a hard time getting under 100 fps spreads. Here's the breakdown .... match grade ammo should have a max spread of 2.5% or less and should be capable of sub-inch groups @ 25 yards. Field grade or self defense ammo should be 5% or better on max spreads and capable of 2.5" groups @ 25 yds, whereas "plinker grade" ammo can be as high as 10% spreads and group size would be 5" or better.

Max velocity spreads are a good indicator of accuracy potential in handguns but do not always ring true, meaning ..... just because the loads chronograph really tight, it doesn't always mean the load will be accurate. On the other hand, I've never seen match grade ammo shoot mouse ear groups when velocity spreads were much over 2.5%. As we all know, reloaders have different accuracy standards. Some are very happy to hear a bang and see a hole appear somewhere in a man-sized silhouette. Bullseye shooters are the most picky where ammo and the gun must be capable of sub-inch groups at 25 yards, in fact most bullseye guys demand 1/2" or better @ 25 yds. It takes a good gun and very good ammo to do this, not to mention shooting skills.

Rifles are expected to be way more accurate than handguns so generally "MOA" is used to judge accuracy. If you were to chronograph a rifle and ammo capable of 1 MOA groups, you would find max velocity spreads will be quite tight ... typically 2~3% max spreads. It is not unusual to see match grade bench rest rifles shoot groups under .5" at 200 yards (1/4 MOA) but to do this, you need a really good rifle and match grade ammo.

So what determines how well ammo will group in a handgun? Obviously it starts with the gun itself ... and not all guns are created equally. As for the ammo, the single most important issue for consistent results is neck tension. See, I told you it was all related! Consistent neck tension depends on a properly sized case plus the the brass at the case mouth must be uniform thickness and hardness. As a case is fired and reloaded multiple times, irregularities in the brass will cause the neck to develop thin areas and will get harder with each reload, eventually resulting in splits. To get consistent bullet-to-case neck tension capable of match grade standards, about 3 to 4 times loaded is max, plus the cases need to be from the same batch. After 3-4 times loaded, max velocity spreads will increase because the thinner areas in the mouth do not apply uniform neck tension and crimp from cartridge to cartridge. This will have a dramatic affect on how the powder is ignited and in turn, a change in muzzle velocity. Many people will load cases until they split ... which is fine for plinker loads. If you want to achieve "match grade" with any ammo, your loading techniques must be as perfect as possible. This includes weighing each charge of powder to the precise weight, +or- 1%. Same goes for bullet weight +or- 1%. So for a 5 gr load of powder under a 158 gr bullet, the powder drop should be accurate to 1/2 of a tenth grain (.05 gr) and the bullet should weigh between 156.4 and159.5, which is pretty easy to achieve. Most reloading scales are not capable of accuracy better than .1 grain so it may be very difficult to achieve match grade powder drop standards. The good news is .... bullets usually weigh pretty darn close to advertised weight so the accumulated error rate between the powder and bullet is not mission impossible.

Last but not least is bullet seating depth. The faster the powder's burn rate, the more critical seating depth becomes. With fast burning Bullseye, just a few thousandths variation in seating depth can change chamber pressure by 1000 psi, which in turn changes velocity considerably. Slow burning magnum powders, such as H-110/W-296, are much more forgiving because the bulk of the burn takes place after the bullet exits the case. Besides, in handgun length barrels, H-110 / W-296 never gets a complete burn so it is almost "self regulating". That also means the powder charge weight is not critical. It is not unusual for 357 or 44 Mags loaded with these powders to produce max velocity spreads under 20 fp and astounding accuracy, even with less than stellar reloading techniques.
I'm new to reloading ... little over a year. This is fantastic information.
Thanks
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Old August 18th, 2012, 12:32 PM   #23
 
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Some fellers "neck size" their revolver brass. They size the case enough to get the proper neck tension, but leave the rest of the body of the case closer to cylinder size. The idea is to keep the cartridge centered in the cylinder and doing so keep the bullet lined up with the barrel better, less deformation of the bullet as it enters the barrel and thus improving accuracy. IMO, only, we are talking about revolvers here not bench rest rifles, and some "accuracy improving" ideas are just wasted effort, ie; uniformed flash holes. I would bet if you took 100 cases and uniformed the flash hole and 100 cases left as is (no appearant burrs on the hole), with all else being the same, any improvement would not be noticable at all...
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Old August 18th, 2012, 12:58 PM   #24
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ozo, You may have noticed ... I didn't say it was a bad procedure to uniform flash holes. My point was ... uniforming flash holes had no bearing on the OP's question about sizing brass. Now that it has been included in this thread, I'll give you my opinion.

Reloading .... everyone has their own priorities and opinions but as long as the ammo meets your needs, there's really no reason to waste time doing something that makes almost no difference, unless you are loading match grade ammo.

My priorities when reloading are: safety first then do everything necessary to produce ammo accurate enough to meet my needs. I also take pride in my ammo so I spend time tumbling the cases until they sparkle. If I load ammo for bullseye competition, you can bet I will do every trick in the book to make the loads as accurate as possible, even though it takes a long time and yes, this would include uniforming flash holes. If I load for routine target practice, I'm not going to waste my time cleaning primer pockets, uniforming flash holes, weighing each powder charge, weighing each bullet, etc. In fact when I crank out a batch of ammo on my Dillon RL550, it always meets or exceeds the 50 fps rule and is plenty accurate in all my guns.

What I have found ... thanks to the Internet and many misinformed reloaders, some people spend a lot of time doing things that aren't really value added and don't spend enough time on things that really do matter. A perfect example is keeping the bullet seater die clean when loading lead bullets. I wonder how many people actually do this? As lead shavings and bullet lube build up on the seater stem, it will make bullets seat deeper. I want my first round to be seated to exactly the same depth as my last round, and yes, it does make a difference in accuracy. This is one of the best features of Dillon dies ... you can remove the seater stem, clean it, and replace it ... all in a few seconds without changing the seating depth adjustment. I do this often when working with lead bullets ... every 10 rounds or so, depending on how cruddy the seater stem gets. I always trim my cases to a uniform length to get the most uniform crimp possible. Another issue ... selecting the best burn rate powder for your particular load. I see a lot of members here on the forum that use the same powder for virtually all their loads. Nothing wrong with that if the loads meet your expectations; however, there's a reason why powder manufacturers make so many different burn rate powders ... each having their own applications. I always like to match burn rates as best I can for the load I'm producing. I've found having 5 different burn rate powders for handgun loads will meet just about all reloading needs from light target loads to magnums in all calibers.

My last comments .... I am not a one man research lab. I do conduct tests on my ammo but I don't have the resources available like the big ammo manufacturers. When ammo manufacturers do their thing, they find the optimum bullet weights, powder burn rates, and velocities that produce the desired power levels at the best accuracy. I try to learn from their tests and load to factory specs. Because I have multiple guns in each caliber, I don't waste my time working up loads for a specific gun and having to keep track of what ammo goes in what gun ... rather I use the "factory ammo concept" and make ammo that works well in all my guns ... however maybe not the optimum accuracy in any one gun but it always exceeds factory ammo accuracy.

I guess my point is ... spend time on the things that really matter. If you load all ammo to match grade standards, then uniforming flash holes is worth doing.
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Old August 19th, 2012, 08:32 AM   #25
 
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I use a Lee small base die and have found it improves consistency. I assume cases made wider than the standard size would be less consistant.
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Old August 19th, 2012, 11:09 AM   #26
 
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I reload 357 with a Lee handpress and carbide dies. I just clean the flash hole and primer pocket. Don't thimk I've ever resized a primer pocket. I'm slow but that's ok I go from fired brass to loaded rounds at about 50-75 hr.
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Old August 19th, 2012, 06:31 PM   #27
 
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When it comes to straightwalled revolver cases I tend to keep an eye on the case length...I find a uniform case length helps me turn out a better reload. A uniform case length keeps the belling and crimping operation even and consistent throught a batch of brass...
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Old August 19th, 2012, 07:31 PM   #28
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mikld, I tried "neck sizing" straight wall case revolver ammo many years ago and found there was absolutely no difference in accuracy than with full length sized cases. All revolvers have an internal "forcing cone" (AKA cylinder throat) where the chamber reduces from case diameter to bullet diameter. Example: a 38 Special case is .380" and bullet diameter is .357/.358" so the internal forcing cone throttles down about .022". This internal forcing cone does a good job of keeping the bullet lined up. That's also why shorter 38 Specials will shoot accurately in a longer 357 Mag chamber.

Seneca, I totally agree with your posts ... good examples of reloading techniques that are value added. When I get a batch of cases, the first thing I do is run them through the vibratory case cleaner. After they are clean and shiny, I inspect all cases for defects and cull out the bad ones. Next I size and deprime all the cases and inspect them again. All cases are then trimmed to the same uniform length as my other brass in the same caliber. After these cases are reloaded, fired, and sized again, they will maintain a uniform length until they are no longer serviceable. Uniform case length is essential for consistent crimps ... be it revolver cases with a roll crimp or semi-auto cases with a taper crimp.

Most reloaders bell their case mouths too much. All you need is enough bell where bullets will seat without shaving. This will not only extend the life of the brass, it will also maintain more uniform neck tension and crimp, which in turn lowers max velocity spreads and improves accuracy.

Along this same line, I always separate bullet seating and crimping in two different operations. With my Dillon RL550, it's done automatically but when I load on my Rockchucker single stage, I will seat all the bullets in my batch then go back and crimp all of them. Takes more time but the final product is much better.
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Old August 20th, 2012, 11:02 AM   #29
 
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Iowegan..
Thank you...
I read through your post and it's like you are looking over my shoulder...I was checking off the steps in my procedure as I read through it...excellent post!
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Old August 20th, 2012, 12:35 PM   #30
 
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Quote:
The "50 fps rule" originated from quality factory ammo, which is loaded to this standard.
I didn't know that.... I just was using 50fps as 'my' rule of thumb (seemed reasonable) when testing revolver loads no matter the velocity.... Which incidentally is usually in the 900-1200fps range .... Thanks for the 'history' lesson.
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