Temmi

I don't crimp any Bolt action round...

I do my ARs (15s and 10s)

Snake

GunBlue

Invest in a Lee Factory Crimp Die and follow instructions to apply a very light crimp for a bolt gun. Lee's crimp is unlike any other die. That is, it uses a collet to squeeze from the side, independent of the case length and does not exert downward pressure on the case mouth that can bulge a case. It will crimp without need for a cannelure on the bullet, too.

I've been using them for several years now in rifles and handguns, and they work very nicely.

Rodfac

No...in a word. Rod

Iowegan

There are two different concepts for 223 Rems ... one for semi-autos and one for bolt guns or other locked breach rifles (ie break barrels). For ARs, Mini-14s, and other semi-autos, you should use bullets with a cannelure and apply a modest crimp. This prevents the bullet from pushing in during feeding and pulling out (like a kinetic bullet puller) when the bolt slams shut.

For bolt guns, you should use bullets without a cannelure and do not apply a crimp. Anytime you crimp a bullet without a cannelure, no matter what brand of crimp die you use, you will distort the bullet. This will result in something less than optimum accuracy.

I load my 223s on a Dillon RL550 and use the best dies available ... Redding. I have a Redding crimp die mounted in the 4th station but I back it out several turns when I load non-cannelure bullets. Occasionally I'll shoot 55 gr FMJs with crimped cannelure bullets in my Remington 700 bolt gun. They have decent accuracy but nothing to compare with my 55 gr (non-cannelure, non-crimped) Hornady V-Max or Nosler Ballistic Tip bullets that shoot some mighty fine groups. I use the crimped FMJs in my Mini-14 .... not nearly as accurate as my Rem 700, but it shoots better with the crimped FMJs than with non-cannelure bullets.

In actual tests using Nosler Ballistic Tip 55 gr bullets (no cannelure) in my Rem 700, I found a light crimp opened the groups up to about an inch ... still respectable accuracy. A firm crimp opened the groups to about 2". With no crimp, the groups are one tattered hole @ 100 yds. I have also tested these loads in other rifles and found them to group very tight with no crimp. These loads are propelled by 26.5 gr of Varget powder and chronograph very close to factory SAAMI 55 gr velocities of 3260 fps from a 24" barrel.

So in my opinion, for optimum accuracy use non-cannelure bullets with no crimp in your bolt guns. As usual YMMV.

Nick0410

Ive been using the same 26.5gr of Varget with the 55gr Z-max bullets I bought which actually have a cannelure, before Rem and now AE brass. From my internet research, V and Z Max are supposed to be the same bullet, but the Z is offered in a 500 box which is far cheaper than buying 2 250 V boxes. Where I load them, the cannelure is sticking a little past the case mouth anyway. Loading has been fairly successful with no crimp. With my Dillion dies, I get a an OAL between 2.26-2.25, I have been messuring them and grouping them based on similar lenght so when I shot a mag of 5, theyre within 1 or 2/1000th of an inch. The dies do not expand the mouth but leave it at about .222 and squeezes the bullets into the case. I do not use lube on the case mouths and I tend to get a slight ring, were the bullet seems to be crushed by the die, and this might be the cause of my OAL variation also.

I have only shot at 50 yards besides some informal target at 100, but at 50 I have been keeping my shoot-n-c 2 inch stickers and I'm sure the Rem 700 26in Heavy Barrel is a MOA gun (many groups within .5in at 50y not counting my fliers here and there from inconsistent technique). I just shoot off of table at the range with a 6-9in Harris bipod, still cheapo Rem (made in china) glass that came with the gun. I have been using a homemade case lube of lanolin and alcohol, next time I load I plan on using a q tip and swaping the case mouths with the mix.

If you have anymore suggestions, I'd appreciate it. I tend to shoot 3 or 4 out of the 5 well and jerk 1 or 2, sometimes Ill have 2 small groups because of that but I'm working on my technique. This is the first rifle I have been serious about, never shot for groups with my 10/22 and its a nice change of pace compared to pistol or shotgun.

brimic

+1 No argument there.
My DCM AR-15 prefers the same treatment- SMKs/Berger VLDS/Hornady A-Maxs- with no crimp.

I've played around with a Lee Factory crimp die on a Swedish M41B rifle using SMKs and SGKs and got similar results. Further, I tried using a Lee collet die, and got good accuracy if I reannealed the necks every other reloading or else they lost their neck tension. If I mixed anneaned and unannealed brass, accuracy went right out the window. Now I just use a FL sizer every time and get the best consistancy- this rifle will consistantly shoot 1" groups at 200 yards. My next step will be with Redding neck sizer dies.
I asked a bunch of F-class shooters that I often shoot with about neck tension problems, and they were mum on their techniques. Some claimed they used Lee collet dies, but wouldn't say anything further about neck tension, some of them soft seated.

krwada

I have found that crimping does not affect the accuracy very much for a bottleneck round in a bolt gun. Neck turning your brass has a way better effect. At least this is what I have found.

Crimping will affect the pressure of the fired round. You should carefully work up your loads if you have not crimped your rounds before. It is better to be safe than sorry in this fine hobby

Idaho Spud

Ask any benchrest shooter if he crimps in bolt guns. Then do likewise. Those guys know accuracy.