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How to remove a squib?

This is a discussion on How to remove a squib? within the Reloading forums, part of the Firearm Forum category; My SP-101 is at the Ruger factory and I imagine that it will be awhile before it is back. I was wondering (can't shoot so ...


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Old March 17th, 2010, 04:25 PM   #1
 
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How to remove a squib?

My SP-101 is at the Ruger factory and I imagine that it will be awhile before it is back. I was wondering (can't shoot so I may as well wonder) , if I have a squib happen. What would you use to get it out? Does it go all the way in the barrell or between the cylinder and the barrell? Hate to think of that happening but I may as well know what to do if it does.



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Old March 17th, 2010, 04:52 PM   #2
 
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I've only had it happen in an autoloader in which case you remove the barrel and drive the squib out with a brass rod of appropriate diameter. Some folks will tell you to use a wooden dowel, but theres a risk of shattering the dowel and creating a bigger problem.

In a revolver, you can't exactly remove the barrel. If it stops in the forcing cone and ties up the revolver you'd likely ahve to drive it back into the cylinder to get the cylinder open and then work it out of the cylinder from there. I'd expect that in most cases it'll clear the forcing cone, but again never had it happen in a wheelgun.
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Old March 17th, 2010, 05:10 PM   #3
 
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It will most likely clear the B/C gap and enter the barrel, so it won't tie up the cylinder. As a reloader, I carry a brass rod and small mallet in the range bag. I had it happen once in an auto, but never in a revolver.
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Old March 17th, 2010, 10:23 PM   #4
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Well I have done it both ways, wood & brass, the brass being the better way or more postive way to go. You just need to work slow and take your time.
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Old March 18th, 2010, 08:17 AM   #5
 
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I had it happen with a handload in a S&W 629. It barely cleared the forcing cone so at least I was able to open it up. 2 solid taps with a wooden dowel drove it back out without any problems.
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Old March 18th, 2010, 02:58 PM   #6
 
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Thanks for the info guys. If it was partially in the forcing cone and cylinder I wonder if a guy could tap it back into the brass? I think you would mess up the crane or something.
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Old March 18th, 2010, 03:57 PM   #7
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie Two Tracks
Thanks for the info guys. If it was partially in the forcing cone and cylinder I wonder if a guy could tap it back into the brass? I think you would mess up the crane or something.
I doubt very seriously that you would ever have that situation. One of the instructors at the loacal club decided to create a squib as part of a class demonstration. He put a primer only in a piece of brass (no powder at all) and seated the bullet. For the demo, he told us this was a squib so we could hear what one sounded like. The bullet ended up about half way down the four inch barrel (S&W revolver, for what little that is worth). Very impressive demonstration and he easily convinced everyone to clear the barrel before even thinking of shooting it again.

I talked with him about a month later and he said he would NEVER do that demo again. It took him quite a bit of time (I don't remember exactly how long) to get the bullet out of the barrel.

Based on that, I believe the likely hood of having one partially in the forcing cone and part in the cylinder is minimal.
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Old March 18th, 2010, 04:30 PM   #8
 
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I had a bullet stuck in a BFR 45-70, I gently tapped it out with a smaller diameter steel rod.
my mistake for buying reloaded ammo at a gun show.
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Old April 17th, 2010, 04:24 PM   #9
 
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I had it happen in my "New Model Blackhawk" .45 LC single action with reloads from a friend never do that again "roll my own" now tapped it from the barrel with a wooden dowel unusual sound made me stop and look---- good thing!
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Old April 17th, 2010, 04:44 PM   #10
 
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Since lead has a lower melting point than steel, just carefully lay the gun in a camp fire and let the bullet melt out of the barrel...
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Old April 17th, 2010, 04:49 PM   #11
 
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I use either a brass rod or a wood dowel, neither will mar the barrel.
The bullet can be any where, from the throat to the muzzle, it depends on just how much powder was in the squib. A primer only will often move the bullet less than an inch, just enough to stick it in the rifling.
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Old April 18th, 2010, 08:08 PM   #12
 
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I have had a squib happen in a revolver. Matter of fact it happened this morning. The bullet jammed between the cylinder and the barrel causing the cylinder to jam up. I just took a brass rod and kind of tapped it back into the brass so I could open the cylinder. It was no big deal to do and wasn't hard. It did worry me some. I will be paying better attention when I hand load from now on.
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Old April 25th, 2010, 09:37 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by Travis View Post
I have had a squib happen in a revolver. Matter of fact it happened this morning. The bullet jammed between the cylinder and the barrel causing the cylinder to jam up.

I've had that happen too. Luckily, it was my DW 15-2 so I just changed barrels and drove the bullet out when I got home.
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Old April 25th, 2010, 09:42 PM   #14
 
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If you handload long enough you will have it happen. I know.
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Old April 26th, 2010, 06:46 AM   #15
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie Two Tracks View Post
My SP-101 is at the Ruger factory and I imagine that it will be awhile before it is back. I was wondering (can't shoot so I may as well wonder) , if I have a squib happen. What would you use to get it out? Does it go all the way in the barrell or between the cylinder and the barrell? Hate to think of that happening but I may as well know what to do if it does.
Charlie:___________
I agree with the other posters who recommend brass rods and a mallet. We did a bit of cowboy action shooting and had several squibs in both rifle and revolver. We used a good brass rod of appropriate length and just tapped the offending bullet out of the barrel. We always keep two rods; one about 10 to 12 inches long for the revolvers and one about 26 inches long for the lever gun. I think our rods are 1/4 or 3/8 diameter brass.

Hope this helps.
Kind regards,
Leroy
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