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SP101 Sticky extraction

This is a discussion on SP101 Sticky extraction within the Reloading forums, part of the Firearm Forum category; I just purchased a 2.25" sp101 in 357 magnum and having problems extracting brass. The first rounds I put thru it were reloads for my ...


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Old May 24th, 2016, 09:50 AM   #1
 
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SP101 Sticky extraction

I just purchased a 2.25" sp101 in 357 magnum and having problems extracting brass. The first rounds I put thru it were reloads for my NMB, which extract fine in that revolver. I bought some factory ammo yesterday and they extracted easily. All my reloads are built by the book. Any opinions welcome.



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Old May 24th, 2016, 10:06 AM   #2
 
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Do you clean your brass before reloading?
I have no problems with either .357 or .38 reloads in my SP101.
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Old May 24th, 2016, 10:13 AM   #3
 
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Every time
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Old May 24th, 2016, 10:26 AM   #4
 
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any strange marks on your brass indicating rough chambers?
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Old May 24th, 2016, 10:40 AM   #5
 
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Not that i've noticed after extraction, when i insert the spent brass back into the cylinder it looks to be shaving the brass.
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Old May 24th, 2016, 12:56 PM   #6
 
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You might need the cylinders bored out. Before you do that, try cleaning out each cylinder using a brass 38 caliber bore brush and some bore cleaner. When your finished cleaning out each chamber, with the cylinder open and the barrel pointing straight up, take a spent case and insert into each chamber and shine a small flashlight into the cylinder while inserting the spent case into the chamber. Make note of where in each chamber the case starts to drag on the cylinder wall. If the revolver had a lot of 38 sol ammo fired through it, there might be some build up on the cylinder walls just in front of the 38 sol case mouth. 38 sol cases are .25 inches shorter than 357 cases. If you feel the drag of the spent 357 case the entire distance within each chamber you will most likely need the chambers bored out to spec. If the drag is only about a quarter of an inch before the spent case is fully seated, you still have some build up that needs to be removed. If normal gun cleaner doesn't remove it, try oven cleaner and put the revolver on a flat tray after removing the grips and place it in the oven that is set to 375 degrees and let the cleaner remove the built up crud.
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Old May 24th, 2016, 01:53 PM   #7
 
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GONRA has "cured this problem" by reloading with Factory New .357 Mag brass.
If possible, try the same reload recipe with Factory New .357 Mag brass and report back.

Last edited by GONRA; June 3rd, 2016 at 01:37 PM.
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Old May 24th, 2016, 02:02 PM   #8
 
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I've only shot a handful of 38's and that was after 357 mag rounds. I clean my guns after every outing so there is no crud ring. I did notice this afternoon 2 cylinders may be a little tight just by dropping in some reloaded 357 mag. All my 357 brass has been reloaded several times.
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Old May 28th, 2016, 04:59 PM   #9
 
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I posted under Range Reports a thread on BE-86 and various powders in my SP101 with 4" barrel.
I made a note that I had sticky ejections from a maximum load of Unique. I had to bump the ejector rod to get them out. The same loads DO NOT stick any in my GP100 with 6" barrel, in fact the same batch of loads.
I stated that I read over 30 years ago one thing that makes cases, or hulls, stick in magnum loads is that the cylinder expands, or stretches, slightly when the round is fired. The cylinder shrinks back down but the brass cases do not and therefore stick extraction is experienced. I wondered if the thinner cylinder on my SP expands slightly and the thicker GP cylinder does not. I just read that in a gun magazine and do not know if it is true or not true.
Just throwing that out there. I do not really know why. I do know the same rounds stick in the SP and not in the GP.
I may fire them in my Dan Wesson and see if they stick in it.
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Old June 2nd, 2016, 12:17 PM   #10
 
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I had a similar issue with 4.9gr Unique in 38spl with MBC 158gr SWC bullets. Everything pointed to maybe a too high a charge, even though it was below MAX published load data.

I then did some additional testing with the same load and different headstamp cases. This test seemed to confirm that the charge was not too high, but the sticking cases only happened with one headstamp. Following were the results from my test:

CBC new load: sticking
CBC old load: sticking
Federal: did not stick
Starline: did not stick
Speer - Nickel: did not stick
Winchester: did not stick
AP - Nickel: did not stick
PMC: did not stick
RP: did not stick
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Old June 2nd, 2016, 03:12 PM   #11
 
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CBC???
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Old June 2nd, 2016, 04:23 PM   #12
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gqucool View Post
CBC???
I did not buy it but Google search listed Magtech.
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Old June 2nd, 2016, 04:37 PM   #13
 
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Before you start doing anything drastic, I would clean the chambers well and closely examine them. If your loads are reasonable and the brass is clean, I'd look for rough chambers.
Upon firing the brass expands against the chamber walls. The brass will conform to any machining marks on those walls and that can cause difficult extraction.

If the chambers are rough you can CAREULLY polish them with some 600 grit paper and a split dowel chucked in a drill. DON'T GO CRAZY! You are not trying to remove metal, just smooth up what you have. A cotter key chucked in a dremel tool will also work but use the slowest speed and be conservative. When you get done clean everything up and dry the chambers. That should do the trick.
Remember, you're just trying to smooth out the machining marks and nothing more.
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Old June 2nd, 2016, 05:39 PM   #14
 
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Thanks for every ones input, I'll try polishing the chambers.Vaalpens, the only brass I have in 357 mag.is starline and my load was near max.
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Old June 2nd, 2016, 07:21 PM   #15
 
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This is a dumb question but I am sure you full length resize your brass.
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