Reloading for a Ruger M-77 target rifle,.223, use Lee tools, Hornady 55gr,FMJ, H335 powder, I have to gently force the bolt closed and, after firing, the case will not extract. I stay about 15 thousands under the OAL. Where am I going wrong?
Have you trimmed the cases between loads? Are these being full length resized?
Had a similar problem with the 7X57 when using once fired cases from another rifle. Check the neck length?
In agreement with the above fellers. I might add; when ever a "fit" problem is encountered, measure! You need to find out where the cartridge is too big. Measure the finished cartridge's OD with micrometers; OD at the case head, midway down the body, at the shoulder, the neck OD. You'll need a good dial caliper to measure OAL. With properly adjusted full length sizing dies, the shoulder is prolly sized right, but it's something to remember after all the other dimensions/steps are checked. When you find out where, you'll prolly learn when it occurs. But, if not, do all the measurements after each step of yer reloading to make sure of when the problem occurs. Then you can remedy the situation...
BTW, does a once fired case fit the chamber? Will a newly sized case fit the chamber?
After you resize an empty case (that is resized only so primer, powder, projectile) can you drop the case into the chamber and have it drop all the way and then turn the rifle over and have it fall out easily or at least with very little effort.
Also set a bullet (no primer or powder) crimp and try chambering and extracting that test round and measure if the projectile has been set back and look for any marks on it.
Might also use a witness material such as soot or possibly sharpie to cover the case before chambeing and extracting to see if you can find unexpected or uneven contact between case and chamber.
Repeated full length resizing will keep lengthening the case until it must eventually be trimmed, possibly after only three or four rounds. The reasons for this are simple. The case body expands on firing; and its diameter is reduced in full length resizing. The brass displaced must go somewhere - and it does; it is pushed upward to lengthen the case.
When an overlength case is chambered, the mouth or edge of the neck will come up against the throat (left, top) before the bolt has fully closed or the case shoulder has contacted the chamber (left, upper middle). The camming action of the bolt is so powerful that it will actually crimp the case mouth fully into the bullet (left, lower middle) and wedge the case so solidly between the bullet and the throat that the neck cannot expand to release the bullet. Chamber pressures in this situation can and most certainly will go dangerously high (left, bottom). See, Hornady, Internal Ballistics
Sounds like, to me, your brass might be once fired or fired in semi auto rifles having generous chambers. I bet the extractor of your rifle tore the rim off the brass stuck case.
The remedy is to full length your brass using a "small base" die - this will restore the brass to factory dimensions. When using one of these dies be sure to lubricate the entire case except for the neck. Skip this step and you will get a stuck case - drill a 1/4 inch hole through the primer pocket, tap threads into the hole, insert a 1/4 inch machine bolt into the hole through a steel cup or stack of washers and turn the stuck case out - everybody sooner or later gets one stuck into a die. Good idea not to resize loaded or primed ammo.
When sizing these cases using a small base die you will notice that the area close to the rim will show signs of extensive compression.
It is only necessary to small base resize one time using a bolt action (bolt gun). As mentioned maintain correct brass length and try for minimum head space. Yes -brass cases stretch and need to be periodically rimmed. Also as mentioned repeated firing without full length sizing will result in no head space making it difficult to close the bolt - this makes your rifle into sort of a press with the chamber acting as a die - not a good idea.
It is a good idea to have minimum head space, easily closed bolts, and then put a tiny amount of say wheel bearing grease on the bearing surfaces of your bolt locking lugs - don't slather the grease on.
Yes, I have seen defective or pitted chambers that can make for difficult extraction but I doubt your rifle has a bad chamber.
A case gauge like those made by L.E. Wilson or Lyman will give you the information you need. These Go/No-Go gauges are an essential tool for any reloader. The one piece gage will check overall case length and headspaceing of your once fired case. L.E. Wilson Case Length Headspace Gage 223 Remington
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