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This is a discussion on Dry Fire within the Range Reports forums, part of the Firearm Forum category; Originally Posted by Iowegan ... I know "real men" don't read operating manuals but if you get bored, sneak the Ruger manual off where no ...


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Old July 18th, 2013, 11:25 AM   #31
 
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Originally Posted by Iowegan View Post
... I know "real men" don't read operating manuals but if you get bored, sneak the Ruger manual off where no one can see you and read about dry firing. Every revolver or pistol that Ruger makes is safe to dry fire with no mention of Snap-Caps. ....
Totally agree with the firing pin / snap-cap explanation.


The SR1911 comes with a titanium firing pin if I'm not mistaken, which makes it more drop safe (lighter pin, heavier spring -> no need for firing pin block). Although in fora you often read that titanium is more brittle then e.g. steel and you should avoid such pins, even here the manual states explicitly that the gun can be dry-fired without damage to the firing pin or other components.

I trust their engineers on this one... I'm sure they have chosen a good titanium-alloy...




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Old July 18th, 2013, 11:45 AM   #32
 
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Originally Posted by trackstang35 View Post
i dont dry fire and i dont encourage people i shoot with to do it, it just goes against all firearm safety i was ever taught
I was thought:
- When you aren't going to shoot: always thoroughly check that a gun is unloaded (empty mag, empty chamber) when you take it into your hand.
(if you put it down and pick it up again, even for a sec -> do the check again so that it becomes a second nature).
- Never pull a trigger when not pointing in a safe direction, regardless if it's loaded or not (in fact they said never point it in an unsafe direction, but that isn't fully realistic).

I trust myself enough with these rules to consider dry-firing safe (I also make sure no ammo is laying around when dry-firing).
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Old July 18th, 2013, 01:59 PM   #33
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Biartr, Good catch! Yes, SR-1911s have a titanium firing pin but it is not pure titanium, rather an alloy that makes it about 10% heavier and way less brittle. When I first got my SR-1911, curiosity got the best of me so I weighed a standard steel 1911 firing pin and the titanium firing pin on my reloading scale. The titanium pin was exactly half the weight of the steel pin, yet they look and measure identically. Further, the firing pin spring is about twice the compression weight of a standard spring. These two differences allow the SR-1911 to pass the drop test yet still maintain Colt Series 70 compatibility, unlike Colt Series 80 and some other brands of 1911s that have very model unique firing pins and extractors.

I find it very interesting ... many people will carry an Old Model Ruger without the transfer bar conversion ... they will disable locks, magazine disconnects, loaded chamber indicators, etc but they won't dry fire their guns because they think it is unsafe. I will never fault someone for taking extra precautions but ... it should apply to all safety conditions. Of course some people take dry firing to extremes ... you can wear out a perfectly good revolver by clicking away countless times. The parts inside a gun don't know the difference between live fire and dry fire. I've seen many cylinders, cylinder latches, and frames ruined from excessive dry firing, however firing pins will survive.

Last edited by Iowegan; July 18th, 2013 at 02:02 PM.
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Old July 18th, 2013, 02:03 PM   #34
 
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Originally Posted by Iowegan View Post
Yes, SR-1911s have a titanium firing pin but it is not pure titanium, rather an alloy that makes it about 10% heavier and way less brittle. When I first got my SR-1911, curiosity got the best of me so I weighed a standard steel 1911 firing pin and the titanium firing pin on my reloading scale. The titanium pin was exactly half the weight of the steel pin, yet they look and measure identically. Further, the firing pin spring is about twice the compression weight of a standard spring. These two differences allow the SR-1911 to pass the drop test yet still maintain Colt Series 70 compatibility, unlike Colt Series 80 and some other brands of 1911s that have very model unique firing pins and extractors.
I bow to you Sir.
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Old July 18th, 2013, 02:51 PM   #35
 
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I started doing a lot of dry fire practice when I was shooting IHMSA matches back in the 70's, and still do quite a lot of it. Only thing I don't dry fire are my rimfires. Dry fire was also a big part of marksmanship training in my Army career. As others have mentioned, I usually start a range session with some dry fire, especially if firing a weapon I haven't fired recently. Great way to practice the basics. I've never owned a snap cap, BTW.
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Old July 18th, 2013, 03:21 PM   #36
 
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Hardly ever (not including when I lose count during live fire) - I shoot .22 exclusively and a good many of these rimfire firearms don't take too well to dry firing...
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Old July 18th, 2013, 09:45 PM   #37
 
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Just wanted to show some pics of the damage I had mentioned earlier from dry firing without snap caps. This is my S&W 686+(7 shot). You can see where the firing pin hit the edge of the chamber, which was actually part of the ejector star.

Again this didn't happen under normal dry firing circumstances. I was doing rapid fire and by accident my thumb got in the way and turned the cylinder while it was in the middle of a trigger pull. The notch had not yet caught, and the cylinder was turning in free motion. I remember hearing the firing pin hitting the steel because it was pretty loud. And yes these have the firing pin mounted to frame. It chipped it good but I am just glad there was no damage to the pin.



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Old July 19th, 2013, 01:02 AM   #38
 
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Originally Posted by RevolverGuy View Post
Just wanted to show some pics of the damage I had mentioned earlier from dry firing without snap caps. This is my S&W 686+(7 shot). You can see where the firing pin hit the edge of the chamber, which was actually part of the ejector star.

I was doing rapid fire and by accident my thumb got in the way and turned the cylinder while it was in the middle of a trigger pull. The notch had not yet caught, and the cylinder was turning in free motion. I remember hearing the firing pin hitting the steel because it was pretty loud. And yes these have the firing pin mounted to frame. It chipped it good but I am just glad there was no damage to the pin.
This doesn't really count for me as a story on why to use snap-caps.
The damage was caused by "improper use" as you accidentally turned the cylinder and caused the chamber to be in incorrect alignment (agreed that such things can happen to anyone).

Besides, with snap-caps or real bullets, maybe the pin would also have been able to strike the metal. It seems to me that the pin would have hit the very outer rim of the round and maybe have slipped in between the space between two bullets. The latter is an assumption on my behalf, it would be great to hear more experienced peoplecomment on that.

PS: How long where you pissed off at yourself after that happened?

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Old July 19th, 2013, 03:20 PM   #39
 
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you can wear out a perfectly good revolver by clicking away countless times.
And that is why I don't do it for 'practice'. I'd rather wear it out shooting than dry firing. Not a safety issue to me at all. Each to their own as we say .

Growing up with .22s, I was taught never to dry fire them... and so I didn't. Wasn't my guns ... they were my dads.
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Old July 19th, 2013, 03:34 PM   #40
 
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The light on my ceiling fan has been "shot" roughly 3,255 times.
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Old July 19th, 2013, 03:51 PM   #41
 
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The light on my ceiling fan has been "shot" roughly 3,255 times.
You mean shot 'at' . How many times did you really miss . Hah!
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