krwada

Here is the practice rifle I just purchased and modified.



It is based on a Ruger 1022 action and has the following specs.
1. Ruger 1022 carbine action

2. Boyds rimfire thumbhole stock, (glassed, floated barrel and fitted really tight)

3. ER Shaw fluted 0.920 bull barrel

4. Competition hammer, (Pull measured at just under 3.00 lb with Lyman Digital Trigger Gauge)

5. Titanium firing pin

6. After market bolt lock plate

7. 6-24 x 40 BSA mil-dot scope with illuminated reticle

8. 15 MOA Picatinny rail

I plan on doing the following modifications to this rifle in the near future. Actually, I have already done most of these already

1. Add a KIDD bolt buffer, (keep the bolt from slamming the metal pin)

2. Add the KIDD receiver pin retainer with the countersink screws, (requires some receiver modification)

3. Add the KIDD charging handle with softer bolt spring, (better grip)

4. Replace the trigger springs to reduce lock time and trigger pull, (reduced trigger pull by 4 oz)

5. Pillar bed the stock and replace the takedown screw with a stainless hex head screw

6. Replace the factory V-block with a Raven Eye custom V-block with a barrel tension adjustment screw

Cheetos

Nice 10/22! That scope is sick.

303lithgow

What scope is on it?

krwada

It is a BSA 6-24 x 40 Mildot with illuminated reticule.

303lithgow

Thanks, I see that you already said that in the first post. Missed reading it somehow.

BlkHawk73

I plan on doing the following modifications to this rifle in the near future. Actually, I have already done most of these already

1. Add a KIDD bolt buffer, (keep the bolt from slamming the metal pin)

More of a "feel good" thing than anything. If it were such an important issue, Ruger wouldn't still be using it after 40+ years and millions of 10/22's.

2. Add the KIDD receiver pin retainer with the countersink screws, (requires some receiver modification)

If the trigger is such a concern, I'd be looking more at making the internals better before concerning myself with this kit to remove that small amount of looseness. With the rest being Kidd, why not go more than just a "competition hammer"?

3. Add the KIDD charging handle with softer bolt spring, (better grip)

Concerned about the bolt "slamming" the cross bolt yet you want to use a weaker spring so it allows a harsher recoil force of the bolt? Not a bad, choice by any means but sometimes the reasoning doesn't correlate. Just sayin'.

4. Replace the trigger springs to reduce lock time and trigger pull, (reduced trigger pull by 4 oz)

This is one of the biggest problem creators. The weaker springs very often cause functioning issues. The weaker hammer springs are prone to causing failure to fire and the reduced trigger return springs very often don't give enough force to properly re-set the trigger. Doesn't provide enough pressure to push the trigger forward. I always leave mine as-is. Better ways to improve triggers and while lighter is nice, it's not the only aspect to pay attention to.

5. Pillar bed the stock and replace the takedown screw with a stainless hex head screw

Depending on what route you go with this it'll do some good or little at all. Better to bed the action. The different screw is all cosmetic. No change in function but if the $ is a feel-good, go for it. Thought...stainless is more prone to being a harder material than carbon steel thus increasing the possibility of it cutting the threads of that aluminum receiver.

6. Replace the factory V-block with a Raven Eye custom V-block with a barrel tension adjustment screw

Fell into that trap huh? More of a marketing thing than an actual answer to a problem. have a proper fit of the barrel and bedding done correctly and this is all a waste. Seem favor Kidd...look at his v-block and what he says about the screw adjustment.

BlkHawk73

Not wanting to criticize but with all the rest that's going into this, I'm curious why you settled on a BSA? They're not exactly highly regarded as a quality optic and often seen as more show than "go". All that magnification is fine but without GOOD optical quality it's easily lost. Just IMO, seems odd to put the thought, effort and $ into the rest of the gun and yet make such a compromise on such an important aspect.

computerdynamics

Nothing to critcisize on your gun that I can see? It looks great and hope you get a lot of pleasure out of it. So much fun to modify and work on!

Seems that some people can only find the negative in things? Does it make them feel better about themselves? Im' not a psychiatrist? Maybe everything is negative to a negative personality?

Enjoy your new toy!
Tony

BlkHawk73

Just assuming this was directed at my post. Notice the "not wanting to criticize" part? Rather than be the psychiatrist (I took psychology in college, you?) perhaps reading what was written would be best. Not too difficult to comprehend that the OP is wanting to get the best he can from his build. I was simply pointing out aspects that perhaps are lacking and could assist in him getting all he can from his firearm. See it as you wish. With these 10/22's, I can at least say I've been there and done that and covered most all the bases in doing so. YOU? In doing so, I can kinda point out better choices or alternatives from actual experience. Can you? People often get cauht up in the big picture and don't focus on the smaller parts. If it's all gotta work as a whole, all those small pats are equally important so if one's a bit lackluster... If suggesting a better route or suggesting a re-think of a choice already made is "negative", well guess I'm negative. What next, gotta be politically correct, nicey-nicey to everyone, and give hugs?

jjwesley

That, my friend, is one beautiful rifle.
What have you done to the stock to gain that dark wood color quality? Did it begin with their nutmeg laminate ? I am min the market for a new stock and have been looking at Boyd's, but the Nutmeg is so light. Any tip you can offer is appreciated.

BlkHawk73

Appears to be the black laminate. You could get the nutmeg unfinished and simply dye it a bit to darken it. I like the stock just as it is, especially with the rest of the gun black as well. Boyd's makes a very nice product. Another to look at is the Revolution. Veeerrry similar with just the lower grip area being a little different. I like the Revolution finish better but the Boyd's color pallet is broader, especially when they do their small special runs with different laminates.

ZommyGun

From my recent experience with the 10/22 trigger I agree completely with BlackHawk on the springs and his reference to other things being as or more important than light pull...

Initially I bought the VQ Target Hammer which came with replacement springs and a shim set from TriggerShims.com

The product is advertised as reducing trigger pull by approximately 50% and it was as advertised...a huge improvement over factory original...I have no regrets over that but at this time if doing it again I would take a different route...I would get the PC adjustable-sear/target-hammer combo...not saying its the best...just what I would do... $70 from Midwayusa...

When I installed it I went ahead and replaced the springs even though I had seen a few people around suggesting not to...at first it was perfectly fine but later would not reset...so I put the factory springs back in and it seems to fine again...while I can't say for certain that the springs were the problem I tend to believe it...swapping them out is easy...they come with the hammer...as for the shims...while I like it better shimmed...it is not a huge deal...the parts are cheap...

The target hammer did nothing for pre-travel slack which was excessive nor the post-travel which was significant and I am personally convinced that the post travel increases your chances of pulling the shot off target before the bullet leaves the barrel...now I could easily be wrong about that...but at this time it is what I think based on before/after...

The target hammer also did not remove trigger creep...

So I bought the PC adjustable sear...and drilled/tapped my trigger for an over travel stop...the combination of those two imo has more benefit than the lighter pull...if I had to take parts out and put back to stock I would take the hammer out not the adjustable sear...

With the sear adjusted to the absolute limit the creep is still not removed but reset problems occur (with factory springs) before creep is removed...

So when people say their trigger is "crisp" I have to wonder if their definition of crisp is the same as mine...mine is not crisp...

Additionally...creep is not consistent...now the pull is very reasonable and most slop "free-play" and "post-travel" is now completely gone... except for creep.... the amount of creep is much more noticeable... and would not be as bad if it were more predictable...

Going slow from here forward on the trigger since I am very happy overall with the massive improvements do date...but would like to reduce or eliminate the creep...and without throwing money at it...not sure it's possible...but willing to experiment with tuning parts I have later after some other things have been done...

Oh...one more thing...get sharp-claw extractor...best $12 you will ever spend on that gun...

That is nice looking stock too...

krwada

Hey BlkHwk73;
Your comments are spot on. The bolt buffer is a feel good. I purchased two types. I bought the plastic, and the KIDD. I like the KIDD buna-N rubber with steel insert. I have found that it allows me to re-acquire the sight picture much much faster.

I held off on pillar bedding. My rifle already has the action bedded, and it is a super tight fit. I do not think that I can squeeze any more out of it than it already has.

I wanted a hex-head take down screw. The reason for this is because my really fancy German (Wiha GmBh) torque screw driver seems to work best with the hex-head. I have already found that making a consistent torque actually has a small but significant effect on my groups.

I actually replaced the charging handle spring with the lightest one available from KIDD. Actually, I have not had a single mis-feed since.

The extra heavy hammer spring was recommended to me by one of my friends who is the local top-rated silhouette shooter. I am not too certain about this one. However, one of the things I noticed is that even the cheap Walmart ammo have never failed with this extra power spring.

I do not like the cheap Walmart ammo however.

Yep, you are quite right. I think the 'fever' got to me, and I fell hook-line and sinker for that custom V-block nonsense. My custom V-block now sits in one of my firearms parts junk drawers ... Oh well!

I purchased the KIDD trigger housing retaining pin assembly. Again, for me this is a feel-good purchase. I did this because I simply got tired of the pins falling out at the most in-opportune time. Actually, believe it or not, I ran a bunch of tests using the KIDD housing retaining pins vs the original retaining pins, and I got a difference of about 0.100" in my groups! I am not entirely sure how to explain this one however. I am thinking that maybe the original Ruger assembly has a bunch of slop in it, even with the improved parts, and it may be better to just replace the whole thing.

I may or may not get a full custom trigger group assembly. It is pretty darned pricey ... especially the KIDD, which I really like. I like the KIDD because it is a 2-stage. I really like 2-stage military triggers. You will not get any more or less performance. I think it is a personal preference thing. You will shoot better if you feel better pulling the trigger. The only thing I do not like is creep. I can handle just about anything else.

I am thinking that my most likely next purchase may be an entire bolt assembly. I can get a complete bolt assembly from KIDD for about $150. I think that there may be more benefit from this than replacing the trigger.

krwada

Hello BlkHwk73;

The answer to your question is very simple.

I ran out of money in my budget.

I will get a much better scope later however. So far; the BSA seems to be working for me. I have used cheap scopes in the past. Yes, they have their deficiencies. I can pretty much overcome most, if not all of them for the type of shooting I do. Yes, you can get the cheap BSA to actually perform pretty darned well out at the range. I would never take a BSA out on a hunting trip however.

The groups I get with this thing is actually pretty good. I average somewhere around 0.200" to 0.700" groups at 50 yards pretty consistently ... depending on the ammo. One definitely needs to take into account the ammo for the .22LR shooting, as the price on this stuff is definitely all over the map.

I budgeted a few hundred bucks for ammunition testing.

I have already blown through that budget already. I did go out and purchase some of that Eley Tenex. It should be coming in this week, (1st week of Sept 2012).

BlkHawk73

Understood krwada. Keep a few Simmons just for function testing and informal shooting until the desired optics arrives. The hobby certainly takes a backseat to other things.
Good to see you're taking the time and expense to try a variety of ammo. Be very interesting to hear about your experiences with each if you still have the results. Never tried the Tenex. My better ones really like Wolf Target and the Federal Gold Ultra Match. That high priced stuff certainly isn't always better either, at least in some of mine.