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Remington 1911r and perceived fragility

This is a discussion on Remington 1911r and perceived fragility within the Pistols & Revolvers forums, part of the Pistol & Revolver Forum category; Remington moved their 1911 R1 production to a new facility in Huntsville Alabama in 2015. I had bought an R1 three years ago that was ...


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Old April 30th, 2017, 06:22 PM   #16
 
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Remington moved their 1911 R1 production to a new facility in Huntsville Alabama in 2015. I had bought an R1 three years ago that was made in Ilion, New York - it was a very well made gun with nice fit & finish. It was a gift for a business acquaintance.

Haven't examined any of the Alabama made guns yet, but have read a handful of complaints about the finish. However, such complaints are to be found on any forum about any make of firearm, save for the high end 1911s.



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Old April 30th, 2017, 06:49 PM   #17
 
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I have an inexpensive Auto Ordnance Thompson 1911A1 Government clone and I've shot Winchester white box 230 gr FMJ @ 830 fps, Federal American Eagle 230 gr FMJ @ 890 fps and Federal 230 gr. HST hollow points thru it recently and have not had issues with them. I replaced the old original (early 1990s) recoil spring with a Wolff 16.5 lb variable spring, upgraded the slide stop with a Nighthawk part, and installed a new Ed Brown extractor that I tension adjusted. My gunsmith (who specializes in 1911s) did a trigger job on it and polished the feed ramp/barrel throat.

Testing has shown the Federal HST to expand reliably and to pass the FBI penetration tests. I would try them in your Remington and if it has issues, you can have a little work done on it that might improve its function with HPs. Testing will likely show some HP rounds working better than others. Mine did not like the Federal Hydra Shok ammo. Below is ballistic testing of the Federal HST round shot from a Series 80 Colt.


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Old April 30th, 2017, 08:21 PM   #18
 
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The Remington R1 in the Blued Model to me looks a lot like e Springfield Mil-Spec 1911. Someday I would love to have a Remington R1, very beautiful made 1911!!!
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Old May 1st, 2017, 06:51 AM   #19
 
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This is the R1 I gave to my business associate - I liked the very visible 3 dot sights that are similar to the SA Milspec.

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Old May 3rd, 2017, 03:32 PM   #20
 
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So my 18.5 pound wolff spring came in today and it also came with a firing pin spring. Do I really need to install the wolff firing pin spring?
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Old May 3rd, 2017, 04:42 PM   #21
 
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When I put in my Wolff 16.5 lb variable recoil spring I also put in the Wolff firing pin spring. It's easy to do and since you have the new spring anyway, there is no downside. My 1911A1 repro is about 25 years old, so replacing the fp spring I thought was a good idea. I shoot the Fed. 890 fps FMJ load with the 16.5 spring and have no issues. The ejected cases go about 5-6 feet away. Let us know how your pistol works with the 18.5 lb spring.
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Old May 3rd, 2017, 05:14 PM   #22
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill B View Post
When I put in my Wolff 16.5 lb variable recoil spring I also put in the Wolff firing pin spring. It's easy to do and since you have the new spring anyway, there is no downside. My 1911A1 repro is about 25 years old, so replacing the fp spring I thought was a good idea. I shoot the Fed. 890 fps FMJ load with the 16.5 spring and have no issues. The ejected cases go about 5-6 feet away. Let us know how your pistol works with the 18.5 lb spring.
Thanks for your reply. The reason I am going to try the 18.5 lbs spring is because the 230 grain bullet traveling 890 fps has 404 lbs of muzzle energy, around standard 40 cal cartridges and those use a 19 pound spring.

and I also don't know how to take the firing pin out. I'll have to look in the manual, hope I don't need tools.
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Old May 3rd, 2017, 05:26 PM   #23
 
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It is so easy to do. You just need a small punch. Just look on You Tube and you will see videos on how to do it. When you remove the firing pin stop plate holding in the firing pin just remember it is under spring pressure and can go flying. When you slide out the plate keep a finger/thumb over it to keep it from flying out.


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Old May 3rd, 2017, 07:55 PM   #24
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill B View Post
It is so easy to do. You just need a small punch. Just look on You Tube and you will see videos on how to do it. When you remove the firing pin stop plate holding in the firing pin just remember it is under spring pressure and can go flying. When you slide out the plate keep a finger/thumb over it to keep it from flying out.

Yeah I changed mine out actually. Thanks for the vid!
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Old May 4th, 2017, 07:28 AM   #25
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Cherno Alpha1, Don't get hungup on specifications for other guns. Your 1911 is NOT a 40 S&W. Further, 40 S&W cartridges do NOT use 230gr bullets. Use the guide I listed in post #2 .... it has worked for 100 years. Your new 18.5 lb spring should work great for 45 ACP +P loads but it may "short stroke" with normal 45 ACP loads, especially those rated on the lower end of the spectrum. So .... leave the factory 16lb spring in the gun unless you are shooting +P loads. The reason why the over powered 18.5 lb spring came with a stronger firing pin spring is .... the slide will slam home with quite a bit more authority than with a 16 lb spring. This means the inertia firing pin could also move forward hard enough to dent a primer ... possibly resulting in a slam fire. A stiffer firing pin spring will slow firing pin travel enough to prevent slam fires.

BTW, the formula for recoil springs includes the weight of the slide, the momentum developed by the cartridge, and the distance the slide has to move. Momentum is simply bullet weight times velocity divided by 7000 (number of grains in a pound). Momentum is totally different from kinetic energy. Bullet energy= velocity squared times bullet weight (in grains) divided by 450,240. Quite a radical difference!
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Old May 4th, 2017, 02:37 PM   #26
 
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Originally Posted by Iowegan View Post
Cherno Alpha1, Don't get hungup on specifications for other guns. Your 1911 is NOT a 40 S&W. Further, 40 S&W cartridges do NOT use 230gr bullets. Use the guide I listed in post #2 .... it has worked for 100 years. Your new 18.5 lb spring should work great for 45 ACP +P loads but it may "short stroke" with normal 45 ACP loads, especially those rated on the lower end of the spectrum. So .... leave the factory 16lb spring in the gun unless you are shooting +P loads. The reason why the over powered 18.5 lb spring came with a stronger firing pin spring is .... the slide will slam home with quite a bit more authority than with a 16 lb spring. This means the inertia firing pin could also move forward hard enough to dent a primer ... possibly resulting in a slam fire. A stiffer firing pin spring will slow firing pin travel enough to prevent slam fires.

BTW, the formula for recoil springs includes the weight of the slide, the momentum developed by the cartridge, and the distance the slide has to move. Momentum is simply bullet weight times velocity divided by 7000 (number of grains in a pound). Momentum is totally different from kinetic energy. Bullet energy= velocity squared times bullet weight (in grains) divided by 450,240. Quite a radical difference!

Thanks for the good info Iowegan. I did end up putting in the 18.5 pound spring and the firing pin spring it came. I ran the 230 grain FMJ's going 890 fps with that 18.5 pound spring and had no issues out of 50 rounds except one jam. Other then that I had no issues with it cycling the ammo between 50 rounds of the Federal 230 grain FMJ's going 890 FPS, the Winchester 230 grain hollow points going 880 fps and the barnes 185 grain +P. I'm pleased with it.
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