NY Ruger

CONGRATES !!! nice to hear.
Darn, yea, you could have been chasing the fitting of the rings and alignment of the scope.

ZommyGun

Well I spoke too soon...forgot to check the windage when I got back...it's off center by a lot...didn't realize how much I adjusted it while I was out there...was so happy with the how good it felt and how little the elevation had to be adjusted I just didn't even think about it...it's currently at 24...off center by 16moa...I don't like that...gonna fix it...running out of room tho...currently only have .008" clearance to barrel to work with...might have to get another set of rings and start over and do a better job...not sure...we'll see...gonna have to shoot it again next week to make sure one way or the other...

Later,
ZG

ZommyGun

The cheek weld is a work in progress...the pics are of TEMPORARY set up until I am certain the eye-level of scope/sights has been determined which will take a while...having the profile all worked out to perfection in advance will make it infinitely easier to make it out of firm material and make it permanent...

The foam is closed cell pipe insulation put on with double stick masking tape...the back side is backed in plastic to keep it from pushing off to the "comb" side...stretch wrap is the cheapest, fastest, easiest, cleanest, most secure way to prototype a cheek weld for fitment...it will stay put a long time if you scotch tape the end of the wrap so it won't unfurl...it is also soft, pliable, conforming...comfort level is better than one would think by looking at it...

This is how it sits at the moment...



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ZommyGun

Same gun, scope rings in different stock from different angle...even with the small scope mounted as low as it could possibly be...the Ruger DSP stock still requires a 5/8" thick riser to get the cheek right using Ryan Cleckner's method...



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NY Ruger

That's low.
yea, even with a smaller diameter optics on the scope, the sight plane would still be above the iron sights, just no getting away from it unless one has nice chubby cheeks ! LOL ..

We've used cardboard and masking tape or of course Duct tape on the line to help those struggling with their scoped 10/22's straight from the big box sporting good stores with the real tall mounts that come with the 25-50bux scopes.

I always hated the AR's and the old scopes that mounted on top of the carry handle.. ugh.

303lithgow

Nice looking Zommy with the sporter stock. I've always liked low mounted scopes and you did a great job.

303lithgow

I have an old Colt AR with the Colt scope mounted on top and while its not very user friendly it does have its history.

You would hate my M14 with night scope even more. The scope is even set offside.

NY Ruger

Ohvay ! geeezzz.. something way out of proportion there...

I hear ya on the history part, but.....

303lithgow

Yes it is as difficult to shoot as it looks. Its just the opposite of how I like scopes mounted. I'm like ZommyGun and like them mounted as low as possible. Easier to get a good check weld and they look better.

NY Ruger

Me 3 .

ZommyGun

Thanks for the compliments...I am glad you guys are enjoying this little project too...

NYR you are right about the iron sights except that I failed to explain...show with pics...what I was actually attempting to do...my fault...

But I started this thread because I thought it was crazy funny/lucky that when the parts I ordered for the 40mm scope came it that it mounted with less than .010" clearance...that and people are ALWAYS wanting to know what rails/rings will clear with certain scopes etc...

It grew from their...

I'll post pics later to show why I wanted to mount the scope so low...it was not due to any theory or preference...other than wanting the scope to come down to the eye level that my cheek piece/iron sights were already at...

I figured people would just like to see the results regardless of where their preferences lie or why they prefer this or that...I figured a little wrong on that...lol...

Anyway... lowegan may have been right for the wrong reasons...in the course of doing/sharing and now sculpting a more permanent cheek rest/weld I realized that I had conflated two things that were not both true at the same time...

I had it my head I wanted to lower the scope so I could use the same cheek made permanent...but I was at the same time thinking I had set the height of my foam cheek rest at the center of the bore line which is the highest it can be for SBS...I was mistaken about that part...and it just hit me today...

Now combine that with the fact that since I got a scope that is both light and goes down to 2x...and with a really good cheek weld that is making shooting off hand with a scope a ton easier... I really don't need the iron sights anymore...

Therefore...I can raise the cheek weld considerably (I think it's 1/4-1/3" more I can go)...and therefore I can raise the scope back up where I get max benefit of existing heel drop (which already at max allowable for SBS)...

For the time being I am sticking with what I have...and making the cheek weld mo betta at the same level it has been at...

I lathered it all up with expanding foam...sculpted it...it's at the 98% fitment point...needs a second foaming to fill all the gaps and fine tuned...then covered...

Note that I filled the thumbhole...that I am sure is going to make lowegan's head explode...

Two reasons for doing that... left hand and right hand shooting...

Shortly after getting this Fajen stock I quickly learned that I pulled my shots off a lot less if I did NOT use the thumbhole...and wrapped my pinky around the bottom of the grip...hence the little rubber stopper thingy down there...

Also when trying to use it left handed not having firm support for left palm was NFG...

Additionally...the gap on the back side of the grip right handed put a kink in my wrist that was very NOT helpful...so that area is filled in now and everything on the right hand side is fully supported and custom fitted...the left side will have to wait...but is infinitely better already...

Once I have settled on the permanent scope/sight height...and have the sculpting completely done...it will get covered in leather...the good news is that I am better with leather than gun stocks...

For now stretch wrap continues to be the go to covering...can't beat it for temp work...the expanding foam is not rock solid but more than good enough when covered and extremely easy to sculpt...mistake just get sanded down and add more foam for a do over...

The profile below is ideal for me for right handed and gets my eye very close to bore line with minimal head tilt...which is what I need...and since my neck will lean over to left side much easier than to the right the off side is actually pretty usable right now...

Looks like crapola at the moment...work in progress...please excuse the mess temporarily...



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ZommyGun

These are the iron sights I was initially wanting to match the scope and cheek weld to with absolute precision if at all possible...when this pic was taken I was happy with the sights and just starting on the cheek...I had seen Cleckner's video and was sorta taking his advice but only half way...now I am all in with him to the max...



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I had made several prototype front posts to see what style/height etc I liked best...just showing them for reference...if I was going to use them again in the long term the front housing would not be pieced together but will/would be billet and much better fit/contour etc...the one in the pic was 100% functional tho and I really like it a lot...a whole lot...

NY Ruger

Nice stuff...

Dont get me wrong, the lower the better for a bunch of reasons besides cheek weld.
But it's just the most ignored reason.

I'm enjoying your's and others posting on this type of project.

tnx!

ZommyGun

I know where you are coming from...and only as of late fully appreciate your point about the cheek weld being the most ignored reason...all your points are well taken...you can see that the sights while not the highest ever are pretty high...note that peep sight is on a rail and can slide forward and back...how many 10/22's have you see with high mount peep sights and adjustable eye-relief... It actually makes a big difference in focus to me...and you can also see from the pics why I wanted to keep the front post from getting taller...a side note...the ball in the center of the globe in the center of the peep is an awesome sight picture...most globes are too small I.D. and block too much light...the walls are too thick...the result is an obscured and dark target...with this one even with a .050" diameter target peep...I can see light around the globe and half the world inside it...the ball is on the target with an even light ring around the globe the target is nailed down...and it happens easy, automatically, fast...another feature of the sliding peep was that I was not only able to focus it better...I was also able to get the light ring surrounding the globe to be dialed in where I liked it...

So with all that into the iron sights...and never in the past liking or much using scopes...not knowing much about them finer points etc...you can see why I was obsessed with not making a cheek rest that was too high for the sights or too low for the scope...

NOW...the plan is to make a peep sight that bolts to the bottom half of the rear scope ring that automatically locks in the eye-level at precisely the same point...scope/peep...zero difference in eye level...then match up the front post height in a better slip on front globe/post...

The point I was wanting to make is that when lowegan critiqued me over lowering the scope he was absolutely right when he pointed out that I would best off maximizing the distance from eye level to heel...he has no restrictions on cheek height...I do...and at that time I was thinking (incorreclty) that my cheek was already at max height...

So he was right about the eye to heel distance...he just didn't understand my reasons for lowering the scope...as for as theories about what height is best without regard for anything else...all I can say is results with regard to scope settings and all that which would be affected by scope height...I found to be the same...my assumption is that the longer the distance...the bigger of a deal it becomes...and since I am only going 100 meters max it wasn't noticeable one way or another...it's all moot to me...max comfort for prolonged off hand shooting isn't everything with this gun...it's the ONLY thing with this gun...

If it were not for the maximized heel drop of that Fajen stock the low mount would not be doable for me at all...as it stands...it is marginal...but good enough for now...

So wherever it winds up...that's where it will be...

NY Ruger

I always thought those rear peeps adjusted up the ramp for some elevation adjustment..


yea, the closer to the axis of the bore, the less the Parallax, which does help.

The M1D's have a huge problem with it, but as I've read, some of the guys just adjusted the zero of the scope to be as much off centered, instead of dead on at some Distance.
And it may only be off by 1moa or so.... and since the zero of the scope ran parrallel to the potential "zero" of the barrel (if you had a laser coming out of it), there were less problems compensating over distances.