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Rust on barrel ? fixes?

This is a discussion on Rust on barrel ? fixes? within the Maintenance forums, part of the Firearm Forum category; Hi; Stored my Ruger Mark II 10" bull barrel (not stainless, )in a friends supposedly dry attic for a short period. Came back with the ...


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Old June 20th, 2013, 07:42 AM   #1
 
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Rust on barrel ? fixes?

Hi;
Stored my Ruger Mark II 10" bull barrel (not stainless, )in a friends supposedly dry attic for a short period. Came back with the barrel covered in rust spots. The frame I can see is blued, but what is the black finish on the barrel? What would be the best repair for this?
Thanks, Ron



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Old June 20th, 2013, 02:05 PM   #2
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RonaldP,

The barrel is blued steel. It's hard to gauge the extent of the rust based on the explanation given. Are we talking large areas? Can you estimate the depth of the rust? A picture would help but, in any case, the rust will have to be removed and some sort of protection applied in the areas the rust was found. Is there rust inside the barrel or is it all on external surfaces.

There are rust removers and rust reformers but I don’t personally use a rust remover so I can’t advise on its use. I would recommend against a rust reformer based on experiences. I have dealt with rust on blued steel, including gun barrels, but the rust areas were small and did not penetrate the surface deeply. A mild abrasive soaked in a quality non-detergent oil, preferably a gun oil, is the safest route to remove small rust deposits. A mild abrasive would be a fine Scotch-Brite pad, fine emery cloth or one of the various machinist wools. I personally use fine bronze or brass wool. The brass wool can be purchased in most hardware stores, maybe the bronze as well, and the bronze wool can be gotten on-line.

The process requires patience, a light touch and time. Too much pressure will remove the original finish in the areas you treat. You can purchase a cold bluing solution from most gun shops and this will protect the areas where the hot bluing was removed by the rust but the protection will not be as good and it will not look the same as the original finish in those areas. Remember to keep the barrel and surfaces lightly oiled/coated at all times after you repair your MKII and do not store your guns in uncontrolled environments such as attics and unheated basements unless packaged for long term storage.

I am sure others will chime in with their experiences. I had one barrel on an old rifle that I removed and had re-blued by a professional finishing shop. That was years ago and the results were super! Good luck.

BB
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Old June 20th, 2013, 02:47 PM   #3
 
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I agree with BronxBoy. ...and yes, a pic or two would help.
I'm a fan of CorrosionX and would recommend a good soaking in it first.
BTW, I never saw an attic I liked for gun storage.
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Old June 20th, 2013, 02:50 PM   #4
 
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Rust on barrel ? fixes?

So even though the barrel and receiver are a flat black, that finish is still considered "bluing"???

Thanks, Ron
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Old June 20th, 2013, 02:51 PM   #5
 
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Rust on barrel ? fixes?

I'll try and post a photo.

Ron
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Old June 20th, 2013, 03:27 PM   #6
 
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Rust on barrel ? fixes?

Appears I don't have access to the "Manage Attachments" button?
Am I missing something?
Thanks, Ron
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Old June 20th, 2013, 03:58 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonaldP View Post
Appears I don't have access to the "Manage Attachments" button?
Am I missing something?
Thanks, Ron
I think you're missing the post count limit. I had some very very mild rust on my Charger and was able to lightly scotchbrite it off. Then a generous coat of clp was applied. Welcome to the board!
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Old June 21st, 2013, 02:28 PM   #8
 
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After removing the rust you'll most likely have to cold blue the area.
Here's a good one that's widely available.
Perma Blue
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Old June 26th, 2013, 06:04 PM   #9
 
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I had a Browning rifle that had some rust from the previous owner storing it in a sheepskin bag. I used very fine emery paper then polishing compound to remove all the rust. Then Van's cold blue after heating the parts with a hair dryer. Came out a near perfect match to the remaining blue.
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Old June 26th, 2013, 07:20 PM   #10
 
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Before you get too aggressive try some gentle application of 4/0 steel wool with your favorite gun oil. If you do need to touch up the bluing Oxpho Blue neutralizes and remaining rust, is easy to apply and control for color. Application of heat helps the process.

Good luck,
Phil
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Old June 26th, 2013, 10:46 PM   #11
 
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Phibert gave you some very good information. Use #0000 steel wool with a gun oil and it should remove surface rust and not damage the surrounding blue finish if you use light pressure.

As for using a cold blue for touch up, I also reccommend using Oxpho Blue in the creme formula. You can get it from Brownells web site. I used to hot blue firearms and have used about most cold blues for minor touch up and none of the other cold blues match Oxpho Blue for being easy to use and giving a finish that will match the blueing on your gun. Just follow the instructions on the bottle.

I have seen complete firearms that have been blued using Oxpho Blue and you would swear it was a top line hot blue finish if the person prepared the metal polishing right and cleaned all oil off the metal prior to bluing.
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Old June 28th, 2013, 07:28 AM   #12
 
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Rust on barrel ? fixes?

Thanks for all your inputs. I couldn't post a picture so how about a quick description? The bluing on the frame is ok except for one spot about 3/16 x 3/8 inch. I think I could fix that with a cold bluing repair. The barrel has extensive rust like small snow flakes all over, with none on the receiver. Per suggestions if I were to "scuff" the rust off I would be pretty much be doing the whole surface of the barrel. To replicate the flat black finish of the barrel I can dismantle the pistol and send the barrel out for a "hot bluing" refinish for somewhere in the $60.00 to $80.00 range which seems reasonable???
Thoughts?

Ron
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Old June 28th, 2013, 09:17 AM   #13
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Try some Navel Jelly, wipe it on and leave it for a few minutes (4-5) wipe off and take a look, it will take the rust and blueing both off without using any harsh scrubbers, wash off with water, dry and use 000 steel wool lightly and then cold blue
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Old June 28th, 2013, 11:30 AM   #14
 
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I recently took care of some mild rust on the barrels of a 1970's Remington 700 and a 1942 03A3 using a combination of hoppies 9 bore cleaner and wd-40 combo with 0000 steel wool. Most of the small rust spots came off with no problem. Some areas required a heavier hand with the wool. I touched them up with Perma Blue.
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Old July 2nd, 2013, 07:36 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonaldP View Post
So even though the barrel and receiver are a flat black, that finish is still considered "bluing"???

Thanks, Ron
Sorry for the late response, I have been on travel mostly these days. Hot bluing is created by a chemical reaction between steel and caustic salts. The appearance of the final product can range in color from brown tones to almost jet black with dark blue tones in the middle. The color is dependent mostly on the mixture of salts, the bath temperature, immersion times and the steel alloy and the luster is more dependent on the steels surface texture prior to treatment than most other attributes. The earlier processes used produced mostly a cobalt blue finish on steel hence the name. Us older folks can still remember the double-edge, one time use, razor blades that had that blue tone and finish. Today, the processes are more controlled, the chemical mixes are more varied and there are a lot more steel alloys.

Last edited by BronxBoy; July 2nd, 2013 at 07:38 AM. Reason: Spelling!
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