rust after blueingThis is a discussion on rust after blueing within the Maintenance forums, part of the Firearm Forum category; i just redone a nef r92, and the gun turned out good but the cylinder has small reddish brown area's here and there and in ...
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August 28th, 2012, 06:51 PM
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#1 |
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 112
| rust after blueing
i just redone a nef r92, and the gun turned out good but the cylinder has small reddish brown area's here and there and in the notches. also reddish brown places in the cylder holes, i oiled as soon as finished so i don't know what it is. it doesn't look like rust as its in small tiny streaks here and there. is this rust or what?, i can't post pics as my camera is tore up right now. i used birchwood casey perma blue. thanks
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August 28th, 2012, 07:01 PM
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#2 |
Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: WA.
Posts: 2,292
| Quote:
Originally Posted by old fart  i just redone a nef r92, and the gun turned out good but the cylinder has small reddish brown area's here and there and in the notches. also reddish brown places in the cylder holes, i oiled as soon as finished so i don't know what it is. it doesn't look like rust as its in small tiny streaks here and there. is this rust or what?, i can't post pics as my camera is tore up right now. i used birchwood casey perma blue. thanks | Sounds like some stuff I had can't remember the brand, was a clear blue color in the bottle, blued real nice than later I had rust, I oiled it after just like you did.
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August 28th, 2012, 08:47 PM
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#3 |
Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Oregon
Posts: 786
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Some (most?) bluing agents are pretty acidic and residual bluing salts can cause rusting - bluing is, after all, a form of rust. A gunsmith once told me that after re-bluing a gun to rinse the gun with a weak sodium bicarbonate (baking SODA, not baking powder) solution, followed by a thorough drying (I use a heat gun - a hair dryer would work as well) and oiling.
Jim
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August 29th, 2012, 08:00 AM
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#4 |
Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: SE Washington
Posts: 332
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"Blueing" is a form of forced Rusting. You need to make SURE that there is NO contaments or oil, ANYTHING before you start.
And yes, DRENCH it in oil immediately after you rinse it.
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August 29th, 2012, 08:20 AM
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#5 |
Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: USA
Posts: 586
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They actually still make that "home blueing" stuff?  | |
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August 29th, 2012, 08:58 AM
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#6 |
Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: North Carolina
Posts: 3,601
| Quote:
Originally Posted by shootist Sounds like some stuff I had can't remember the brand, was a clear blue color in the bottle, blued real nice than later I had rust, I oiled it after just like you did. | I'll bet it was 44-40. I've used it many times and it works good. I can't recall any rusting later. FORMULA 44/40® INSTANT GUN BLUE - Brownells | |
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August 29th, 2012, 08:15 PM
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#7 |
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 112
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i kept rinsing with water and bluing, and its better but i still have a problem. the cylinder notches have brown color to it and the chambers do too. the rest of the cylinder looks fine, don't have any idea what i did wrong.
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August 29th, 2012, 08:34 PM
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#8 |
Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Oregon
Posts: 786
| Quote:
Originally Posted by old fart i kept rinsing with water and bluing, and its better but i still have a problem. the cylinder notches have brown color to it and the chambers do too. the rest of the cylinder looks fine, don't have any idea what i did wrong. | If you don't/can't polish the area that's been blued - like in the cylinder notches and chambers - it will rust.
All bluing is a form of "rust" - technically, it's magnetite (Fe3O4), whereas "rust" is red iron oxide (Fe2O3) - that is a deep black color. Cold bluing solutions - most of them, anyway - contain selenium dioxide (smells sort of like rotten eggs with a hint of garlic), which doesn't work the same way as the hot bluing process. Cold bluing is actually a coating of copper selenide, which is black to dark grey, and is neither as tough or as protective as hot bluing.
If you used a hot bluing process, then carding (polishing) is critical to removing the red oxide (rust) surface coat and getting down to the magnetite (black oxide). In those areas where you can't do proper carding, the red oxide will persist and will gradually lead to conversion of the magnetite to red oxide (rusting).
Good luck! Bluing a gun takes a lot of hard, finicky work - 'way beyond my meager abilities - and my hat's off to you for doing it yourself.
Jim
Last edited by laidlerj; August 29th, 2012 at 08:42 PM.
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August 30th, 2012, 08:38 AM
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#9 |
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 112
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i am thinking of engine block paint, will i have to remove the bluing to put it on or can i just clean the gun good and spray it on? thanks
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September 2nd, 2012, 07:01 AM
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#10 |
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 112
| Update!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i went and got some dupli-color engine enamel with ceramic, i painted the whole gun. i have been trying to remove all the oil on it these last few days, seems it just keeps creeping out. it may not turn out as well as i hoped with the oil coming through the pins and around the hammer. hopefully most of it will stay on and i'll have a finish on my gun. thanks
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September 3rd, 2012, 05:20 PM
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#11 |
Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Middle TN
Posts: 251
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What are you using to remove the oil with on your gun? Simple soap and water of a gun scrubber won't do it.
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September 11th, 2012, 01:15 PM
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#12 |
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 112
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the gun barrel and frame did fine with the dupli-color paint but the cylinder the paint came off after fireing. i cleaned it real good and blued the cylinder again. then again and cleaned and blued again. i even heated the metal before i blued, after i finished i left a good amount of oil all over the cylinder. i did this yesterday and i went into the room just a few minutes ago and where i blued the cylinder its got a brownish color on it. it almost looks like dull brass color, there is some blue there but mostley a ole brown color. so i don't have much more money to put in this, so will this hurt anything if i keep it oiled? its going to be a woods gun but i don't want the rust to hurt the gun any. should i try something else?, as i'm out of blueing. or will it be ok and not get worse if i keep it oiled? thanks
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