Removing Burn Marks on Cylinders?This is a discussion on Removing Burn Marks on Cylinders? within the Maintenance forums, part of the Firearm Forum category; Originally Posted by reevolvers
get a lead away cloth. It will wipe the cylinder clean as if is were only dust on it. No pressure ...
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August 9th, 2012, 05:28 AM
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#31 |
Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: INDIANA
Posts: 1,454
| Quote:
Originally Posted by reevolvers  get a lead away cloth. It will wipe the cylinder clean as if is were only dust on it. No pressure is really needed. Beware this cloth is for stainless guns only. Blueing will wipe off the weapon as easy as gunpowder burns. | +1...great cleaning tool!
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August 9th, 2012, 09:07 AM
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#32 |
Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Florida
Posts: 368
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Well I took everyone's advise and bought a "Kleen Bore Lead Away cloth" used it yesterday on my SP101 which was as clean as I could get it after my last range trip.
The Lead Away cloth got the remaining carbon off the front of the cylinder with just a couple swipes, 2 minutes, it looks like new again.
Don't know whats on that cloth but everyone that has a SS gun should have a Lead Away Cloth....
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August 10th, 2012, 02:48 AM
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#33 |
Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Florida
Posts: 2,626
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Did some shooting yesterday - 300 rounds through the SP101, 100 rounds through the GP100 and 200 rounds through the SR1911. When it came time to remove the marks on the sides of the cylinders of the SP101 and GP100 I used the Flitz (still all I have to work with right now) and it was pretty easy to get the job done. I don't bother with the cylinder faces except to clean off the surface with Hoppes 9/Rem wipes/rag. Used the Flitz to polish up the surafce in general on the SP101 (GP 100 has a matte Hawkeye finish) and it delivers a nice shine. Still planning to pick up the other stuff next time I'm in a place that carries it.
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August 10th, 2012, 05:04 AM
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#34 |
Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Northern Lower MI
Posts: 297
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Originally Posted by chanaski I haven't tried the lead away cloth, but Hoppes #9, letting it soak and some elbow grease with a brass brush works for me.
Sounds like I need to find some lead away cloths! | They will make your SS cylinders shine!
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August 21st, 2012, 11:21 AM
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#35 |
Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Tennessee
Posts: 13
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Could the Lead Away Cloth be used on a .38 LCR cylinder?
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August 21st, 2012, 11:31 AM
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#36 |
Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: The "Gunshine State".
Posts: 1,152
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On my nickel plated S&W I use jeweler's rouge on a new or super clean Dremel buff. Just a quick pass and it comes right off. There are so many warnings about nickel and Hoppes and other cleaners I'm nervous about using anything other than CLP on it. Again, Use caution and do it quick and lightly. It shines newer than new. ; )
Tony
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August 21st, 2012, 11:44 AM
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#37 |
Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Surprise, AZ
Posts: 172
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Cabalas and Gander Mountain carry them, Walmart might.
Paul
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August 21st, 2012, 03:52 PM
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#38 |
Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Florida
Posts: 2,626
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Gotta say the Flitz is working pretty well and I already have a big honkin' tube of the stuff. I put off getting up the other stuff yet since the Flitz is pretty easy to use. I will still keep my eyes open for it - no Cabela's or Gander Mtn. around here and our Wal-Marts have a pitiful selection of firearm stuff. No guns for sale either and the little bit of ammo they have is hidden away behind the counter. Pathetic.
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August 22nd, 2012, 04:23 AM
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#39 |
Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Florida
Posts: 368
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Originally Posted by MarineDad Could the Lead Away Cloth be used on a .38 LCR cylinder? | Only use the Lead Away cloth on Stainless Steel.
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August 22nd, 2012, 05:59 AM
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#40 |
Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Florida
Posts: 2,626
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Just to add on here - got my Lewis Lead Remover kit yesterday from Brownell's and tried it on my 6" GP-100 that has over 1,000 rounds through it. I used it to clean the forcing cone, the barrel and the cylinders. The forcing cone was pretty clean to start with - no visible lead deposits removed. The cylinders had a few stubborn deposits that cleaned out nicely. The barrel cleaning pulled out some small lead particles. Very happy. Product was easy to use and effective. Have some J-B bore cleaning compound to try next. For now staying with the Flitz for the powder burn marks on the outside of the cylinder. Been easy to use plus I give the whole gun a nice polish in the process (SS only.)
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August 22nd, 2012, 10:12 AM
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#41 |
Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Tennessee
Posts: 13
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Originally Posted by rdp357 Only use the Lead Away cloth on Stainless Steel. | I believe the .38 LCR cylinder is stainless but it looks like a slightly darker stainless. That was the reason for my question.
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August 22nd, 2012, 10:30 AM
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#42 |
Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: WA.
Posts: 2,292
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Originally Posted by MarineDad Could the Lead Away Cloth be used on a .38 LCR cylinder? | Yes
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August 22nd, 2012, 03:56 PM
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#43 |
Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: South
Posts: 1
| Lead cloths for SS cyliinders
Lead cloth really do a fine job on stainless cylinders with a small piece wrapped around a popsicle stick. This gives you a flat surface to wipe the flat hard and all the way to and including the corner.
35+ years.
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August 22nd, 2012, 04:08 PM
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#44 |
Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: IL
Posts: 19
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lead away cloth then polish it with mothers mag polish
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August 22nd, 2012, 05:03 PM
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#45 |
Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Milton, FL.
Posts: 6
|  Collinite's #850 Metal Polish
Have you tried any metal polishes? I used some Collinite 850 on the front of my stainless .44 Super Blackhawk and it easily removed all of the burn rings. Not that you need to, but since I had it, I followed it up with Excite polish and it looks better than new! I happen to own these polishes because I own a Harley.....go figure.
I have been careful bot to get any of these polishes on the side of the cylinder so I don't "polish up" any of the original finish.
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