NCLEO89

So you see, I've got a NIB, never-been-fired, stainless P-90. It's been resting in it's original plastic case since I last inspected it, only a couple of weeks ago. During that time, RUST has developed on the forward flats of the slide! At this stage, it's only tiny dots of oxidization, but no amount of scrubbing with oil and a soft cloth has helped. For now, I've got it back in it's case with a good coating of Break Free CLP oil on the slide. But can someone please give me a proven method of removing this rust without damaging my gun's finish? Thanks, all.

boxwrench

Stainless does not "rust" as you think of regular steel rusting with a red oxide on the surface that flakes off. If you see red rust it is probably due to some iron particles that have contaminated the surface of the stainless steel and it is these iron particles that are rusting. Look at the source of the rusting and see if you can remove it from the surface. If the iron is embedded in the surface, you can try a solution of 10% nitric and 2% hydrofluoric acid at room temperature or slightly heated. Wash area well with lots and lots of water after use. Commercially available "pickling paste" can also be used.

CitriSurf 77 Plus, works great! Might take a few cleanings, but it will get rid of the stains.

Only9mm

buff it out with some 000 or even 00 grade steel wool.

Marine Division Two

Lewis Lead remover (yellow rag) is good at removing light surface rust as you described,good luck

BronxBoy

I am not meaning to deliberately contradict anyone but there are two issues I don’t want to be confused or misstated. Condensation does not form when items go from cold to hot but rather the other way around from hot to cold. Air conditioning not only cools an area but it also removes humidity from the air. So, the lack of air conditioning probably allowed the humidity levels to rise and the memories I have of the times I have been spent in NC during the summer months brings back thoughts of fairly high humidity this time of year. The AC will cool the room faster than dehumidify it so the condensation, if that is what caused the corrosion, was formed when the power was restored and the room cooled.

The second point is that stainless steel can and does corrode (rust) and its resistance is strictly based on which grade of stainless it is. Stainless steel is iron and carbon with doping alloys like chromium and cobalt and other metals. The more rust resistant alloys are more brittle and not suited for firearm fabrication (too hard and difficult to machine) gun grade stainless steels are normally softer for machining and less corrosion “rust” resistant.

The bottom line here, for new firearms it takes several applications of CLP products to form the protection and, if the plan is to store the firearm for long periods, you may be better off using a good grade gun oil. If you place the firearm in a plastic bag, you can also retard corrosion by placing a desiccant pack inside the bag. Remember, plastic doesn’t “breath” so any moisture that gets in will not get out so easily. Moisture will always find a way into any container that is not specifically moisture sealed. It make take longer but it will also take longer to get it out. Heavier coats of oil (not ridiculous) and desiccating materials are best for long term storage, especially in humid weather.

Now, the given suggestions for rust removal are fine and I have one more to offer. I have had great success with mag polish on stianless steel and plated surfaces. Seek a polishing compound that uses the finest (smallest) abrasives. These types of compounds take off the least material so they take longer to remove the rust but leave no blemishes if done slowly and carefully. Sorry to hear about the rust and good luck on removing it.

Allfat

I had a bit of rust on my sr9c stainless slide after leaving it in the holster for a long time. I used 0000 steel wool to take the rust off and it did not change the surface finish of the gun at all. I would recommend that method, it was quick and easy.

BronxBoy

Hey everyone,

I believe I owe apologies to NCLEO89 and boxwrench!

After reading my response to the issue I can see it lacked any tact and I didn’t mean to publicly embarrass or come off as a know-it-all which I know I can sometimes do. I spend a lot time doing failure analysis and tend to react straight to the point if I see there may be bad information being used to fix a problem. I didn’t mean to imply anyone was wrong but rather that there are sometimes misconceptions that are used to attack problems and I didn’t want the wrong fixes applied to a fine firearm. Yet, I can fully see the way it was stated could have been more tactful. See what my wife has to put up with???

In any case, I humbly apologize to both of you!

Best regards - BronxBoy

Ruger Redhawk

I'd take a Bronze gun cleaning brush and use that. I don't mean a bore brush. Hoppes has a bronze brush with a large end and small end for getting in hard to get places. One surefire rust preventer is RIG. I've been using RIG for decades and never have rust form on any gun blued or stainless gun.

Hoppe's Phosphor Bronze*Utility Brush | MidsouthShootersSupply.com

RMHoward

Wow, i think this is the first time i have heard of rust on a stainless P series gun. Sorry to hear this.

HappilyAddicted

Once the rust is removed, please do yourself a favor and order some Eezox. It is hands down the best preventative coating I have ever found. I had rust on my GP100 and my Remington 870. Cleaned them up, coated them with Eezox and never had an issue. All my guns now get cleaned and coated with Eezox. I am such a huge believer in the product that if it doesn't work for you, I will buy it from you.

NCLEO89

Guys: All replies are much appreciated; I'll give the 0000 steel wool a shot and will post the results here. BronxBoy: Apology very much appreciated, but really not necessary...I honestly took no offense, and all is cool.

Tater

Properly applied Eezox will stop the rust from forming.

GunLover

I'm also a big fan of EEZOX. This stuff is also great on outdoor locks and fishing equipment.

larry8

I've used Flitz to remove rust on both blue and SS guns. Just gently rub by hand and it takes off all the rust and dirt. Then buff with an old T shirt and a wash with gun solvent. To keep it from rusting again I give it a coat of Renaissance wax. Although I do keep all my guns in silicone impregnated gun socks and the gun cabinet has a rechargable dessicant in it. Once this is done I have not seen any further rusting.
If the rust is really bad I remove it as above and then go over the area with 800 grit emery paper or crocus cloth then reblue the area. This works for me pretty well.

NCLEO89

Larry8: I love Flitz; I've used it to turn several of my matte stainless firearms into high-gloss stainless firearms! It also works great for removing firing residue from stainless revolver cylinder faces.