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How often do you tear down your 10-22 trigger group?

This is a discussion on How often do you tear down your 10-22 trigger group? within the Maintenance forums, part of the Firearm Forum category; Redleg (are/were you a "cannon-cocker"?), Another "feature" of my workbench is that there are areas with mysterious gravity-enhancement - places where things are much more ...


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Old July 15th, 2012, 08:57 PM   #31
 
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Redleg (are/were you a "cannon-cocker"?),

Another "feature" of my workbench is that there are areas with mysterious gravity-enhancement - places where things are much more likely to fall. Of course, the exact location of these areas varies from day to day, but they are ALWAYS located where any parts that fall will roll under the bench. My favorite tool - and one that seems to get used every time I work on tiny parts - is a magnetic "broom".

Also, no matter what sort of floor mats I put down, the small parts always take an odd bounce after they hit, so that there is no way to predict where the went. A couple months ago, I had the striker assembly of my Springfield XDm undergo "kinetic disassembly" (fly apart) as I was trying to put it back in the slide. The striker spring could not be found, so I ordered a replacement from Springfield.

Three days after I placed the order for the replacement spring, I happened to look at the pegboard behind my workbench and there, stuck in one of the pegboard holes, was the striker spring.

Jim



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Old July 16th, 2012, 05:10 PM   #32
 
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I had a spring "Transcend material boundries"? or whatever and stick in the hole on the metal shelves for the garage, It's like square, round, square, etc. and it was sticking out of one of the square holes in the back corner leg. I was going to NCIS that freaking room till I found it!! Over an hour. The pin size for the 10-22 is 1/8" for the two pins and the short trigger pin. I used a brass "cheater pin" that is flush with the outside and then you push the real pin in to get it right when the trigger is lined up. Well if you are just working on the group the brass pin would probably hold up fine? I also made a brass tool of 1/8" that is ground to a point. It's not sharp but it lets you push pins and bushings around to get a lineup with the back of it. They had the rod at the hardware store and it was pretty cheap.
I just relaized that the pictures I have posted are before I tweaked it. This weekend I'll break it back down and do a side by side pic..
Tony

Last edited by computerdynamics; July 16th, 2012 at 05:14 PM.
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Old July 16th, 2012, 05:52 PM   #33
 
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If it gives you trouble, clean it.

Don't take it apart. As long as it was running fine and dirt is the problem, find someone with an ultrasonic parts cleaner and clean it intact.
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Old July 17th, 2012, 07:47 AM   #34
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgeobc View Post
If it gives you trouble, clean it.

Don't take it apart. As long as it was running fine and dirt is the problem, find someone with an ultrasonic parts cleaner and clean it intact.
Little hard to upgrade the parts with an ultrasonic cleaner? ; )
Tony
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Old July 22nd, 2012, 04:24 PM   #35
 
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After watching a YouTube video on how to do it I think I will avoid that task for as long as possible.
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Old July 23rd, 2012, 11:52 AM   #36
 
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Honestly? When it starts to make a crunchy sound, or when the trigger pull feels exceptionally gritty . I don't use any cheater pins. Once you do it a couple of times it's pretty simple really. Only part that could be a little tricky is that blasted bolt release spring that needs to go under that pin that holds the ejector in place. A basic punch holds it down under tension while you drive that pin home I find. Generally speaking I don't when doing a basic cleaning after a range trip. And no, I don't lube anything but for the tiniest spec of oil on the hammer face applied with a q-tip.
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Old July 23rd, 2012, 01:06 PM   #37
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeyd555 View Post
Honestly? When it starts to make a crunchy sound, or when the trigger pull feels exceptionally gritty . I don't use any cheater pins. Once you do it a couple of times it's pretty simple really. Only part that could be a little tricky is that blasted bolt release spring that needs to go under that pin that holds the ejector in place. A basic punch holds it down under tension while you drive that pin home I find. Generally speaking I don't when doing a basic cleaning after a range trip. And no, I don't lube anything but for the tiniest spec of oil on the hammer face applied with a q-tip.
Cheater pin holds trigger, disconnector, spring, and sear together so you can slide it down into position in the trigger group without it going "Boing". ; )
Tony
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Old July 23rd, 2012, 01:32 PM   #38
 
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Originally Posted by ditto1958 View Post
After watching a YouTube video on how to do it I think I will avoid that task for as long as possible.
Start with a complete assembled one, disassemble, clean, reassemble...a whole 10maybe 15 minutes.
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Old July 23rd, 2012, 01:46 PM   #39
 
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Originally Posted by BlkHawk73 View Post
Start with a complete assembled one, disassemble, clean, reassemble...a whole 10maybe 15 minutes.
+1 except I take a three minute beer break in the middle..... ; )
Tony
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Old July 23rd, 2012, 08:43 PM   #40
 
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I've never found a need to take it down to clean it. Even after more than 100,000 rounds it doesn't need to be take down for cleaning. But I have taken a few apart for modifications.
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Old July 24th, 2012, 06:58 AM   #41
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by computerdynamics View Post
Cheater pin holds trigger, disconnector, spring, and sear together so you can slide it down into position in the trigger group without it going "Boing". ; )
Tony
Ha, yeah I've considered it but I've managed a technique that has yet to let me down so I'll stick with it until it gets too annoying. Pulling faces and swearing helps too. I find your tongue has to be sticking out at just the right angle.
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Old July 24th, 2012, 07:28 AM   #42
 
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Originally Posted by Mikeyd555 View Post
Ha, yeah I've considered it but I've managed a technique that has yet to let me down so I'll stick with it until it gets too annoying. Pulling faces and swearing helps too. I find your tongue has to be sticking out at just the right angle.
Yes using those adjectives helps.
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Old July 24th, 2012, 08:16 AM   #43
 
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Sorry I forgot the tongue and swearing part, very important without the "Cheater pin", which gives me time to drink beer during the install instead..... ; )
Tony
PS Really, the 1/8" piece of brass makes it super quick and easy. It's flush with the trigger and when you get the parts in place just push the actual pin right through. Cake! I can't imagine using bushings without it?? Lot's of tongue and swearing without it for installing bushings!!
PSS I have to admit that mine's working so smooth now that I don't want to take it back apart, but I will....... ; )

Last edited by computerdynamics; July 24th, 2012 at 08:22 AM.
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Old August 13th, 2012, 09:51 AM   #44
 
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Got my 10/22 in 1976 and still haven't torn the group down.
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Old August 13th, 2012, 10:59 AM   #45
 
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Got my 10/22 in 1976 and still haven't torn the group down.
Is that shame or pride? ; ) 36 years of accumulation and no upgrades.......
Tony
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