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GP100 Disassembly

This is a discussion on GP100 Disassembly within the Maintenance forums, part of the Firearm Forum category; Hi, Is it really hard to take out the trigger housing group? When I tried to push the pin as per the manual says, it ...


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Old August 20th, 2010, 12:52 AM   #1
 
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GP100 Disassembly

Hi,

Is it really hard to take out the trigger housing group? When I tried to push the pin as per the manual says, it wouldn't budge. I'm pretty sure it was so tight and am afraid to push it harder I might damage the gun.

Or maybe I'm doing it wrong? Please help me. I need to disassemble the gun, the cylinder is dirty after shooting maybe a thousand plus of reloaded ammo.

I tried to contact Iowegan, but got no reply.

Thanks

Kynth



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Old August 20th, 2010, 03:17 AM   #2
 
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Mine was difficult the first time out too, and the gun was filthy. I believe I held a flat nose punch against the pin and swung it lightly down on a towel on the kitchen sink (punch first). It was easier after that and I've since put in a lighter trigger spring which makes it easier still. I understand your apprehension but its more than likely just stuck.
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Old August 20th, 2010, 08:39 AM   #3
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The first time I removed the trigger assembly I had to coax it gently myself. The advice from rwnielsen is good and accurate. I used an appropriate sized flat nose punch and a jewelers hammer to tap the latch into submission and it gave with minimal force. After I disassembled it that first time and cleaned the trigger assembly, a small drop of lubrication on the latching interface makes it easy enough to be done without the hammer.

Don’t use a hammer on a hard surface just as a cautionary protection for the part of your GP100 that would contact that surface. I sometimes do things in weird ways so don’t laugh when I tell you that I placed a towel on my lap and cradled my GP100 into my body to support it. I hate taking a hammer to any precision mechanical device!

Good luck!
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Old August 20th, 2010, 10:29 AM   #4
 
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The Ruger Popper works very well for this job. It supplies some leverage, as well as, depressing the trigger return spring. You can order one from GP100man on this board.
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Old August 20th, 2010, 01:03 PM   #5
 
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The "Popper" is an excellent tool , definetly contact GP100MAN. Also I have an older GP100 and for years it was very very difficult to remove the trigger group. What you need to do is after you get it out [and before cleaning] remove the pin that holds the trigger return spring [carefully or you'll be looking in the dark corners of the room] and file off slightly where it makes contact into the frame. File a LITTLE at a time and try. If there is much resistance take it out and file a LITTLE more. Do this until the trigger snaps into the frame with a little resistance. Then take it out and clean and oil it and you should be good to go. I just got done doing mine after 20 years of fighting with it. Take your time and you will successful.
Tom
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Old August 20th, 2010, 02:37 PM   #6
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom357mag View Post
The "Popper" is an excellent tool , definetly contact GP100MAN. Also I have an older GP100 and for years it was very very difficult to remove the trigger group. What you need to do is after you get it out [and before cleaning] remove the pin that holds the trigger return spring [carefully or you'll be looking in the dark corners of the room] and file off slightly where it makes contact into the frame. File a LITTLE at a time and try. If there is much resistance take it out and file a LITTLE more. Do this until the trigger snaps into the frame with a little resistance. Then take it out and clean and oil it and you should be good to go. I just got done doing mine after 20 years of fighting with it. Take your time and you will successful.
Tom

Yep, that's what I had to do. I had a lot of Burrs/casting lines in that area too..........................

Mine was a real Biotch the first time I disassembled mine LoL, but at the time I was....................................
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Old August 22nd, 2010, 01:34 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taminsong View Post
Hi,

Is it really hard to take out the trigger housing group? When I tried to push the pin as per the manual says, it wouldn't budge. I'm pretty sure it was so tight and am afraid to push it harder I might damage the gun.

Or maybe I'm doing it wrong? Please help me. I need to disassemble the gun, the cylinder is dirty after shooting maybe a thousand plus of reloaded ammo.

I tried to contact Iowegan, but got no reply.

Thanks

Kynth
This link video is from the Ruger Factory and he does it with ease don't be afariad to press the pause button.




Last edited by Wake County Glockman; August 22nd, 2010 at 01:37 AM.
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Old August 22nd, 2010, 04:29 AM   #8
 
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I tapped on it with a punch and a brass hammer. After I got it out the first time, it was so much easier the next!
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Old August 22nd, 2010, 02:25 PM   #9
 
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Pay close attention to 2 minutes 3 seconds into the first video:

"Caution-- do not pull the trigger or move trigger components while the trigger assembly is out of the frame. This may cause parts to eject."

Ask me how I know!
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Old August 22nd, 2010, 03:44 PM   #10
 
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One word: Ruger Popper.

I tried desperately to get that plunger in for weeks. I thought it was jammed or rusted together. One time, I felt the plunger go in, but couldn't pull down on the trigger guard at the same time. Once I tried the Ruger Popper, it came out easily and went back together the same way. It is a leverage thing.

Best $10 I ever spent.
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Old August 22nd, 2010, 04:25 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark123 View Post
Pay close attention to 2 minutes 3 seconds into the first video:

"Caution-- do not pull the trigger or move trigger components while the trigger assembly is out of the frame. This may cause parts to eject."

Ask me how I know!
Whats so amazing is that in the video he does every thing so perfect the first time and doesn't waste any time doing it.
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Old August 23rd, 2010, 01:29 AM   #12
 
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THANKS A LOT, THIS REALLY HELPS!

I already post a message to GP100MAN, but don't know if he got it. I'm really interested to buy his tool. Kindly really this message to him when he's online.

Thanks.
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Old September 24th, 2010, 10:45 AM   #13
 
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Having now got the trigger group out I now want to replace the trigger return spring. I see the pin I have to punch out and will take the necessary precautions to prevent parts from going off into never never land.

My question is is there a trick to re-installing the spring/plunger and pin?

I have fears that once out I'll never be able to get the plunger back in along with the pin.

Take care

Bob
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Old September 24th, 2010, 12:00 PM   #14
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertbank View Post
Having now got the trigger group out I now want to replace the trigger return spring. I see the pin I have to punch out and will take the necessary precautions to prevent parts from going off into never never land.

My question is is there a trick to re-installing the spring/plunger and pin?

I have fears that once out I'll never be able to get the plunger back in along with the pin.

Take care

Bob
Bob

just push the plunger in a tad then the cross pin will push rite out , then make sure the spring well is smooth ( I disassemble the trigger group & hone it smooth with 13/64 bit & lapping compound ) make sure the trigger link plunger is in then the spring , then the latch plunger , It`ll be a bit easier with the new trigger spring .I use a smidge of tetra grease here.

When installing the group back into the frame get it all lined up & "SNAP" it into place !!

Some GPs under heavy recoil the trigger group will loosen if the plunger is lubed !!

Popper is on the way !!! & ya got a pm.

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Old September 27th, 2010, 04:29 PM   #15
 
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I can't wait until I get my "Popper". I removed the pin holding the plunger in and....nothing! GP100man gave me some good advice via PM and I will gently apply vice grips to the plunger and give it a tug and a wiggle. I suspect there is a burr at the base of the plunger holding it in. God only knows how they installed the darn thing.

Take Care

Bob
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