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Stainless Super Blackhawk corrosion fix

This is a discussion on Stainless Super Blackhawk corrosion fix within the Maintenance forums, part of the Firearm Forum category; My heart sank when I took my early Super Blackhawk Hunter out of it's case and found corrosion on the ejector rod housing. I had ...


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Old November 25th, 2016, 11:57 AM   #1
 
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Stainless Super Blackhawk corrosion fix

My heart sank when I took my early Super Blackhawk Hunter out of it's case and found corrosion on the ejector rod housing. I had put the shooting glove in the case and it must have been sweaty. So I got the corrosion knocked down with some fine steel wool and oil but now I have about twenty 1/8" diameter freckles that I would like to remove. They are not deep and I'm looking for guidance as to what grit stone or paper to start with and more importantly finish with. I want to match the original finish as closely as possible. I'd consider sending it out to be done if it would be a reasonable cost.
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Old November 25th, 2016, 12:53 PM   #2
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Go to your local hardware or paint store an buy a 3M abrasive pad. These come in different colors for different abrasive levels .... much like sand paper. The green 3M pad works great and matches the factory finish well. I fold the sheet in half, trim off a little to make it square, then put it in place of a grinding wheel in my bench grinder. The pad will buff out scratches and rust just perfect without damaging the "words" roll marked on the barrel or frame. If you don't have a bench grinder, just buffing by hand will work fine ... just a little slower.
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Old November 25th, 2016, 05:28 PM   #3
 
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Thanks for the suggestion. I've got new green and white pads and was going to start there but thought I should check first. Will give it a go by hand tomorrow and I can rig some up on the lathe, mill, or buffer to speed things up if needed.
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Old November 26th, 2016, 01:56 AM   #4
 
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Very sorry to see this. May I ask how long it was left before you noticed the corrosion? I am surprised stainless steel (I assume that's what it is) rusted like that. Be super careful when removing the corrosion to not scratch up the finish and make it worse! I'd recommend using the 3M pad or the finest 0000 steel wool you can find (and Kroil or some other deep penetrating lubricant) if you attempt fixing it yourself. A Cerakote refinish is always a great option too for enhanced protection/superior corrosion resistance,

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Old December 1st, 2016, 10:16 PM   #5
 
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It was probably in the case for a couple months, it's been several years so I can't remember exactly. I run a patch through the bore at the range and usually pull all the guns out and clean/oil everything every six months. In this case I must not have had much oil on the range wipe down rag or missed it. It is sad, but it should clean up. Been too busy to with honey-do's to get to it but should in the next couple weeks and I'll report back. I'm not that surprised myself. It is stain"less" not stainfree. I've quite a bit of experience with stainless and the 4xx series can rust if not careful, 3xx less so. No idea what alloy the rod housing is but seems different than the barrel which wasn't affected.

I did shoot a doe with it this year. First blood since I've owned it ~(25 years). Silly thing will put five 240 XTP's under 2" at 100yds. The stains didn't affect the accuracy.
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Old December 2nd, 2016, 09:10 AM   #6
 
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Gzig5, why not just remove the ejector housing prior to polishing it. It should come off real easy, and go back on with ease, after polishing the housing. Obviously this would be the best and easiest method of doing it without damaging the barrel. I'm surprised that Lowegan didn't mention it.
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Old December 4th, 2016, 06:06 PM   #7
 
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Oh yes, I plan on removing it before going at it with any abrasive. It's been nuts around here and just haven't got to it. Does anyone know if Ruger used any kind of sealant or passivization on these stainless guns? I know that the SS motors my company makes go through a passivization process otherwise the hot wash-down process used on the packaging lines will cause them to leach rust.
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Old December 6th, 2016, 07:59 AM   #8
 
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No, just take off the housing, put one end in a well padded bench vise (use a piece of old leather belt to pad the jaws, so as to not "mar" the housing and with a 1 inch wide strip of fine emery paper, "shoe shine" over the housing, reverse and do the opposite end.......simple ,quick and could have done it in the time it took to type out this reply..........YES, stainless steel used in the making of most firearms, will stain, tarnish, rust, if left unoiled or wipe off the surface,they do NOT use an alloy of surgical stainless to make guns, so we use 'RIG 'on most all of our guns, have done this since the 60's and NEVER had any gun "rust" on us.
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Old December 14th, 2016, 09:01 PM   #9
 
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Update. Here's where it is at currently. The pits were a little deeper than I thought so I ended up going at it with 100 grit crocus then 180 and finally 240 which seems to match the finish Ok on the reciever. Was careful not to round over areas that shouldn't be. Not quite done yet but it looks a lot better. There are still a few small pits but I'm not sure I want to go all the way. We'll see how much it bugs me. Got about 95% of it out. This pic isn't the greatest but you have to pay attention to notice the blemishes.
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Old December 15th, 2016, 05:59 AM   #10
 
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gzig5, that looks awesome to me! Great job.
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Old December 15th, 2016, 07:19 AM   #11
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You mentioned you store in a case. I suspect that is part if not most of the issue. I am a believer in storing in the safe without holster or case. Just IMHO.
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Old December 15th, 2016, 02:50 PM   #12
 
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It's usually on the shelf in the safe but in this case I got distracted, left it in the hard travel case with the sweaty glove. Won't happen to me again and part of the reason I mentioned it. Hopefully someone else will catch themselves and save some grief.
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Old December 20th, 2016, 04:42 PM   #13
 
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...looking better, as for that small cluster of pits, that usually has to be addressed with a "fine" file, and either "draw" file ,front to back ,going over the area witha slight "overlap", and blend in with paper ( this will give you the front to back, and sees to be the case in your picture, the polish marks go front to back, parrallel to the barrel/bore....as I noted above we like to polish perpendicular to the bore, curved over and around, getting finer with the grits,,,,same holds true when properly "draw" filing , go on a curved over and around the pitted area, small, short strokes, over lap and blend in, finally doing the same with the strips of emery paper, you can "narrow" the strips for a lesser area to get the pits pout, then widen out to blend in the final polish.........easier for me to actually do than try and type out a description...those pits would be a piece of cake to remove, and blend in for us,but then again we've been doing thsi since the mid 1960s..I do most ALL my prep work on firearms by hand, files, and blocks of wood with emery paper ( or garnet paper or aluminum oxide paper) wrapped around them, keeps things all "flat" ,flush, and NO "washing out holes or rounding edges..........practice, practice, practice

keep it up, you're getting it there...................

Merry Christmas

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Old December 21st, 2016, 10:47 PM   #14
 
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Dan,
I did do a bit of draw filing, but it was difficult to get to some of them due to the vise jaws and not create flats so I went back to paper backed by a piece of rubber. This one actually had some grinding marks going around the curve from the factory that didn't get taken out by the subsequent linear polishing. Not much, but you could still see where they created the curve with the grinder before going to a linear direction. I've got a couple more projects to get finished and then I'll get back to this and finish it off. I have a good selection of files, stones, and crocus cloth to get it right. Just need to do it in short spurts so I don't get in a hurry and do something stupid. Thanks for the suggestions.
Greg
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Old December 23rd, 2016, 05:13 PM   #15
 
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After days of salt water fishing in a tropical location - heat and salt - I was amazed to see similar corrosion on my mid priced spinning and fly rods. My companion told me, "not to sweat it, fishing poles are intended to get wet". The reels still show signs of that trip and the corrosion marks indicate I use these things.

Stainless will rust.

A rusty gun indicates neglect but "fishing poles are intended to get wet".
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