harrydog

Do you just pull the trigger guard/assembly off when you apply the Eezox or do you completely disassemble the trigger group? I'd like to do this on my SP101 but I really don't want to take the trigger group down to its individual parts each time.

Karl der Grosse

This is an old thread, but I have to add that this is great stuff. SS, blued, nickel plate, polymer - it works on all of these and more. I especially appreciate it for the nickel plate since Hoppes or anything else that dissolves copper will begin to take the nickel off.

Note: The address given is actually the guy's residence, but if you call he has been friendly about picking up product there. Otherwise, Slugmasters in Leavitsburg, near Warren, carries it.

Tater

Eezox smells like old fashioned Playdoh to me.

rman

I started using it about a year ago because Calvin liked it so well. I have some AR 15s with .22 LR uppers installed. The .22s are notorious for gumming up the internals on the black rifles. Also they function better if run with very little oil. The Eezox makes cleanup a lot easier, lets me shoot more rounds between cleaning and seems to to a good job of lubricating. It is all I ever use on them.

daniel gree

does it work like the ultimate40 from Stainless Steel Cleaners - cleaning stainless steel appliances

daniel gree

I have used quickleen-s in the past to remove rust from stainless steel

Stainless Steel Cleaner - For cleaning stainless steel appliance cleaner

Arkansas45

Another Eezox user. Its the best thing since ice cream.

Tater

I'm not sure I like Eezox.

I just stripped my Mark III in accordance with the User Manual. Cleaned it up, and applied eezox. Tried to make sure to not overdo it.

However, now that my gun is back together, I notice there is still a wet sheen of this stuff on my recoil spring assembly, which I remember clearly wiping down with a rag before reassembling. I'm guessing this goo is everywhere i can't see!

So, I'm pretty displeased with this product at this time.

At best, it is completely mislabeled and should read "...this product should only be used by competent gunsmiths with the skill to completely disassemble a firearm into its individual parts down to the tiniest plunger, spring, pin, screw, spacer, etc., every time you want to use Eezox ..."

I'd say if you feel comfortable taking your firearm down to individual pieces (I DON'T!) every time you clean your firearm it might be okay. Otherwise, in my humble opinion, you will end up like me with this sticky crap all over everything, just waiting to attract every bit of residue, dirt and grime you can imagine, wearing your gun out in a week instead of a lifetime.

Probably making a fool of myself pointing out my inability to take a gun down to zero, but then again, the User Manual says "further disassembly should be undertaken only at the factory".

:::sigh:::

texagun

Tater: I've been using EEZOX for about 2 years now. The stuff I've been using is NOT sticky at all. It's not even oily. It has the consistency of water but it does adhere to the finish where it is applied. It will NOT attract dust and debris like oil does and will not wear your guns out.

Tater

Then, what is this wet, non-drying residue?

happy1

I've been using eezox for about four months now and I really like it I clean and lube every gun I own and all of my reloading equipment, press and dies. I use Rigg Universal preservative on all my weapons exteriors. but that may end soon as it's getting hard to find it lately.

Paul

stantheman86

Eezox - I call it Stainless Steel in a Can!

The trick is not to glob it on, it's not an "oil" or a "CLP" in that sense, it does great at cleaning carbon, but does nothing for lead and copper. It is an OUTSTANDING rust preventative. I have a blue S&W .22 revolver that I have left in a leather holster for the past 4 years, hanging in my garage. Once this summer I wiped it down with Eezox. It's been humid as all hell here this summer and the only rust I have seen on this gun was a tiny spot where I missed with the Eezox soaked cloth. Wiped it off, so far, no more rust.

Tater

I've pulled the bolt back on it, and I'm still seeing a nice, shiny sheen of wetness on a part that i am sure i wiped down excess. It's been over a day now.

Anyway... perhaps i have done something wrong. Suggestions welcome.

Raminator

You're putting too much on and not wiping it off.

The first application is the only time you really need to get it field stripped to basic components and completely coated. You need to let it sit overnight for the Eezox to work its way into the metal, then wipe off the excess. All treatments with Eezox thereafter are done as you normally would with any gun oil - just wipe off the excess when finished. By the way, this goes for ANY gun oil you would use, not just Eezox.

When dry, Eezox does not attract dust, lint, grease, or anything you metnioned above. My guns run on the stuff and they clean up well. I don't strip mine to the screws and pins for cleaning either.

Basically, if you have residue, you have too much on there. Wipe it off!

Tater

Thanks for the encouragement, Raminator.

I feel like an idiot. I pretty much did what you suggest, and in particular remember wiping off all excess from the recoil spring assembly. After I reassembled it, however, I saw (and wiped off with a Q-tip) wet residue from the Eezox.

The pistol, in general, is dry and i am sure nice and coated with eezox. My problem is i am terrified that there is residual gunk inside the components of the bolt for example, as i did my best to make sure all parts were coated. My fear is that there is residual gunk inside the bolt where residue will build up and become a nightmare. I also do not feel competent to strip it to individual parts, so i'm at a loss and hence my threads here.

Thanks again.