This is a discussion on Cylinder Face crud removal??? within the Maintenance forums, part of the Firearm Forum category; Does anyone one know if polishing the cylinder face with Flitz will make it easier to clean the burn marks off of the cylinder face? ...
Does anyone one know if polishing the cylinder face with Flitz will make it easier to clean the burn marks off of the cylinder face? Any other suggestions to "prevent" making it so hard to get the burn marks off?
I've polished several of my guns and I really can't say that the polished face of the cylinder cleans up any easier/faster than my blued guns. I have found that LEAD AWAY cloths make the job a lot quicker. Just be sure NOT to use Lead Away on blued guns. It will remove the bluing.
It won't make it any easier for cleaning "next time", but it will take off the burn marks from this time quite well. I use a dremel with a felt polishing wheel and a little Flitz, and those marks come right off.
My local shop recommended a product known as "bore paste" (apparently by USP). It comes in a tube, and I use an old toothbrush to apply it to the cylinder face and around the forcing cone. I keep up with it, so it seems like a reasonably easy process. I like to give the local guy the business, but it is probably available on the internet as well.
This is what I use on the outside of my SP-101 and on the cylinder face. It removes the crude quickly and leaves a great shine. I use it on chrome and aluminum on my motorcycle. A bottle will last a very long time. Best I've found for a shine.
Why worry about the burn marks? Just scrub the front of the cylinder with a solvent-soaked toothbrush to get the crud off and call it good. The next time you fire the gun, the burn marks will be back anyway, so why worry about it?
If you really want to, it's your gun, so go ahead. However, remember the old saying- more guns have been ruined by overcleaning than by overshooting. All the polishes are at least slightly abrasive and, over time, abrasives remove metal from the front of the cylinder. Besides, the burn marks on the front of the cylinder show that you actually SHOOT the gun!
Lead away clothes are actually remove a tiny bit of the actual steel though, every time you use them.
I just give the cylinder face a soak with hoppe's, then a few swipes with a nylon brush (bronze brush if there is stubborn fouling buildup), and don't actually worry or care about the burn marks themselves (just the carbon and crud).
use whatever works for YOU, saves time as well as effort ( or money??), no you will NOT prevent it ,but with proper loads, you can and will "reduce" fouling, or leading ( your term of "crud...") the burns, no...............