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GP100 Hammer modification

This is a discussion on GP100 Hammer modification within the Gunsmithing forums, part of the Firearm Forum category; PaPaPork, I'm glad I caught the red mark thing. I think knocking off that corner some in the area you point in blue would do ...


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Old April 3rd, 2011, 04:22 PM   #76
 
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PaPaPork,

I'm glad I caught the red mark thing. I think knocking off that corner some in the area you point in blue would do the trick. I'll have to make a photo.

Half way through that thick black line I drew at the back of my hammer in the photo is where the frame ends. I did that with the hammer installed - that much is not a measurement and the dots are following that line(the frame) and why they're not parallel to the hammer. I then thickened it by about 3/32". So with the hammer closed all the dots will be hidden by about 3/32". I think the 2 or 3 holes at the top could be bigger than the other 2 or 3 but I'd still start out with 1/8" because, of course, you can go bigger later.

My mind's voting for your idea, though.



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Old April 3rd, 2011, 08:39 PM   #77
 
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now I understand the idea why did You line the dots in that shape. All I can say is start drilling in the bottom part where no one will see it and We will see how well we will do, if it doesnt work than You might go by my idea without worrying as the drilled hole will be hidden.

All I know is this :
bench top 1/3hp drill press will not work with carbide/diamond coarted/ titanium coated bits so You better figure something new out.
If Your a kitchen top gunsmith than all you need to go for the "red" line is a small inexpensive vise (the suction cup bottom one) and a dremmel tool.

Last edited by PaPaPork; April 3rd, 2011 at 08:42 PM.
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Old April 4th, 2011, 10:29 AM   #78
 
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PaPaPork,

You didn't mention using Cobalt drill bits. Did you try those?

Anyway, here's my 2 cents worth of what I hope could be dremeled off the bottom of the hammer. Anyone have a thought on this?

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old April 4th, 2011, 03:57 PM   #79
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NormNip View Post
PaPaPork,

You didn't mention using Cobalt drill bits. Did you try those?

Anyway, here's my 2 cents worth of what I hope could be dremeled off the bottom of the hammer. Anyone have a thought on this?

[IMG][/IMG]
I did not use cobalt bits - isint that a brand of bits?? I used Carbide (tungsten-carbide i think), titanium coated and diamond coated,

I wish there was an before and after photo, are You already done with the bottom?? whats the weight reduction??
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Old April 4th, 2011, 04:39 PM   #80
 
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PaPaPork,

Oops! You've got it covered on the drill bits. Tungsten is harder than cobalt I believe. I was thinking Tungsten.

As for my hammer: Hell no I haven't done anything yet!. It's going to stay just a photo until one or more people convince me to go ahead. It may be a long wait.
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Old April 9th, 2011, 06:59 PM   #81
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NormNip View Post
As for my hammer: Hell no I haven't done anything yet!. It's going to stay just a photo until one or more people convince me to go ahead. It may be a long wait.
I would convince to go for the area marked by me in red I thinl. You wont have to worry about measurments or about both sides of the hammer looking the same like I did. all You need is a dremel, the area is right where IG suggested to remove weight (hammer handle and not critical mass-hammer head) just start grinding, than switch to a polish wheel or give it a brush finish - all with just a dremel, you wont even need a vise. You can easyly remove 15% weight and someone who never seen a ruger would not even notice the mod assuming you give it the same finnish as the rest if the gun.

Thats what I'll do with my next ruger, the one I have is a dual purpose hunting/target 9.5in super redhawk (you've seen the hammer on prev photos, working on adjustable compensator now so I can have the same compensation when going from 180 gr target load to 300gr hunting load). My next project will be self defence ruger and I'll cut the red area and the tail for a DAO reducing the weight maybe by 30% I might be able to acheve faster lock time with 9lb spring than factory hammer with 14lb spring
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Old April 17th, 2011, 04:03 PM   #82
 
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[IMG][/IMG]

PaPaPork,

It just occurred to me that removing the part marked in red might have a detrimental effect on using the revolver in SA. You may end up being able to pull the hammer so far back that the trigger's SA sear may not readily set into the hammer's SA notch when you finally release the hammer.

In fact, come to think of it, wouldn't the trigger set itself under the hammer altogether? Then you'd have to pull the hammer back with one hand and pull the trigger with the other - after you unload the ammo - and watch the little Easter bunny you were targeting hop/get away.

Last edited by NormNip; April 18th, 2011 at 05:39 AM.
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Old April 27th, 2011, 06:13 PM   #83
 
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Originally Posted by NormNip View Post
[IMG][/IMG]

PaPaPork,

It just occurred to me that removing the part marked in red might have a detrimental effect on using the revolver in SA. You may end up being able to pull the hammer so far back that the trigger's SA sear may not readily set into the hammer's SA notch when you finally release the hammer.

In fact, come to think of it, wouldn't the trigger set itself under the hammer altogether? Then you'd have to pull the hammer back with one hand and pull the trigger with the other - after you unload the ammo - and watch the little Easter bunny you were targeting hop/get away.
are You suggesting that the area marked in red comes in contact with the Frame when You pull the trigger back (SAmode) my gun is in pieces so I cannot verify but I do not recall any drag marks in that area indicating contact. plus wouldnt the hammer spur came in contact with the frame too? than if You veirfy it is indeed a problem you can always make the "C" cut on the other side of the "hammer handle" ?

I got issues at work due to the Japan dissaster so my projects are on hold.... sorry for the late answer....
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Old April 27th, 2011, 07:42 PM   #84
 
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PaPaPork,

I actually have mine apart also at the moment but I'm pretty sure that the the back of the frame acts as a stop for SA.

BTW, re: drilling. I have just learnt about EDM(Electrical Discharge Machining) which burns through the metal regardless of the hardness. I'm too lazy at the moment to include a photo but a shop here drilled a hole for me in my old hammer as an example (for free!). It was pretty good. I had to dress up the hole a little but I'm happy with what EDM can do. The challenge is finding a shop that will do the job you want affordably.
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Old May 1st, 2011, 06:03 PM   #85
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NormNip View Post
[IMG][/IMG]

PaPaPork,

It just occurred to me that removing the part marked in red might have a detrimental effect on using the revolver in SA. You may end up being able to pull the hammer so far back that the trigger's SA sear may not readily set into the hammer's SA notch when you finally release the hammer.

In fact, come to think of it, wouldn't the trigger set itself under the hammer altogether? Then you'd have to pull the hammer back with one hand and pull the trigger with the other - after you unload the ammo - and watch the little Easter bunny you were targeting hop/get away.
I'm working on a hammer modification like this now. Cutting away the material in the red has no negative effect on SA use. Although I don't think the frame acts as a stop for SA, the spur will contact frame if you pull it really far back.

I'll post some pics when I'm done. Looks like I'm dropping roughly 10-12% of hammer weight. Not huge, but fun to play with.
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Old May 2nd, 2011, 06:18 AM   #86
 
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Westphilthy,

That's great! Please keep us posted.

My picture below shows the hole created by EDM after I cleaned it up. Before cleanup, I estimate that the hole was about 8,000ths" smaller than 1/8" at the exit end of the hole and about 20,000ths" to 25,000ths" more than 1/8th" at the entrance end of the hole.

Tob at Micropulse West, here in Tempe, Arizona, did this on the spur of the moment while I was there, using, if I remember correctly,the EDM by wire process. There's 2 or more kinds of EDM. My guess is that there might be a more exact EDM process. I'll have to check that out. It's probably more expensive.

I'm also toying with the idea of cutting a slot instead of a series of holes - I'd get more weight reduction. I wonder if it's as affordable . Might even be easier . . . I'll have to check into that too.

Anyway, here's the photo:

[IMG][/IMG]

Last edited by NormNip; May 2nd, 2011 at 06:25 AM.
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Old May 3rd, 2011, 06:16 PM   #87
 
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Not the best photographer, but here a couple picks of what I did. Smoothed it out and just a rough polish. I'll clean up the polish at some point.





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Old May 3rd, 2011, 06:49 PM   #88
 
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Westphilthy,

Damn, that does look good.
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Old May 3rd, 2011, 08:40 PM   #89
 
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Good job Westphithy, it took me a moment to realize what was different, there don't appear to be any signs of machining.

Let us know what if any differences you notice.
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Old June 2nd, 2011, 06:03 PM   #90
 
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Westphithy, what technique did you use?? do You have some "in progress" photos? this looks phenomenal!!! better than stock, and as I said before that part does not act as a trigger stop in SA. fantastic job, if You could post in steps what did You do from start to finnish that would be helpfull... not for me since I went the "hour glass" option that looks like ****. but there has been tons of confuson regarding this mode since the IBOK came out.

I was even thinking about creating a new thread with successfull hammer jobs like yours and instructions to help other guys struggling like myself

PS. You might consider rounding out the edges above the hammer ear to the same extend as You did bellow it, that would give you another 2% reduction...
are you using ligher springs?? according to my calculations You should be able to drop from 14lbs to 12 lbs without any change in lock time!

Last edited by PaPaPork; June 2nd, 2011 at 06:10 PM.
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