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GP100 Hammer modification

This is a discussion on GP100 Hammer modification within the Gunsmithing forums, part of the Firearm Forum category; Originally Posted by thomashoward I got my extra GP100 hammer from Brownell's. My goal is to weld a flat on top to fashion a target ...


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Old February 24th, 2011, 07:24 PM   #61
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thomashoward View Post
I got my extra GP100 hammer from Brownell's. My goal is to weld a flat on top to fashion a target thumbpeice like the S&W .500 target hammer
You want to change the spur on Your Ruger hammer?? why not modifing it instead??

3 things that light up red light for a welding noob like me are:
- thumb stressing the weld joint (You have a lot of adrenaline and hormones when shooting giving you a little extra power etc)
- constant vibration from hitting the gun in the forward motion
- high heat on a relativley small surface

I aint no expert though,, maybe they can weld a post in the spurless hammer, than a hole in the new hammer and somehow weld it toegether so it lasts.



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Old February 24th, 2011, 07:34 PM   #62
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fritz View Post
Did try and show in Iowegans pic where I took material away. It is easy to get the 10% of mass reduction. Attachment 1863


My hammer still looks like the pics from previous page, temps are high so chances are I wont go Ice fishing and look into the hammer this weekend, I want to machine down a nice round area under the spur kida like on Fritz pic.
Im trying to give my hammer a decent look, right now it looks pretty molested.

Someone back in the day had an idea to use dremmel tool to cut the center out of the hammmer due to a few long straight lines - good luck !!! post some pic please!! ofcourse doing this "free hand" would be suicidal...(hammercidal...)
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Old February 26th, 2011, 04:31 PM   #63
 
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I just want a larger flat for my fat thumbs. That narrow thumbpeice on the standard GP100 could slice cheese.
I like the Smiff .500 target hammer
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Old March 27th, 2011, 07:54 PM   #64
 
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Just an update on my hammer, after some drinking and waking up at 4am feeling like someone use my mouth as an ashtray it came to me: since the hammer does not respond well to drilling, but responds well to grinding (as seen in my pics on prev page) I should use these little diamond coated bits for drilling in glass and marble as they do more grinding than drilling. No luck though - same result as with carbide bits, goes in realy easy and than stops going after about 2mm. SO DON'T DO MY MISTAKES!!!
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Old March 28th, 2011, 03:03 PM   #65
 
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Years ago I heard or read that the GP100 is made from 400 series steel. From reading similar posts I've wondered what the rockwell hardness would be.

Can anyone confirm any of this?

I have these emergency scissors that years ago were advertised on TV that can cut through a quarter and still stay sharp. They sure can and they are made from 400 series steel.

Although I'm sure there's more to it, I've imagined that's what the GP100 was made of.

If that's the case, drilling into that stuff is going to be tough. Did you use oil for cooling and lubricating? Did you wait until the metal cooled off to try again? After it got stuck did you try a new drill bit?
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Old March 29th, 2011, 06:17 PM   #66
 
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NormNip, if You read the whole thread its all in there, light oil for cooling (drill bits not the glass/stone bits, I use water for these) the hammer did not get overly hot as I was going slow on it, drill bits I tried were carbide and the titanium coated ones with same results... go in nice, than stop after about 2mm, same with the thingys for glass/stone, goes in realy easy than stops after about 2mm. The hammer does responds well to grinding as seen on my pic (previous page) The drill bits were very small 5/32 or something but that couldn't affect it?? right??
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Old March 29th, 2011, 07:56 PM   #67
 
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Yea, I should read it again; it's been awhile. It's just very hard steel, I guess.
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Old March 29th, 2011, 09:14 PM   #68
 
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Reducing hammer mass never even occurred to me. Now I am trying to think of where I can take my hammer to have this done (I live in an apartment so I don't have anything close to what would be needed.)

I think for every piece of helpful information I read on this forum I see two things I start to convince myself "need to be done"
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Old March 30th, 2011, 04:01 PM   #69
 
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RedDawn, this is to reduce lock time - the time it takes for the hammer to travel, very important for DA shooting, especially for a self defence gun. also important with light springs.

Fastest way of doing it, thats the most common way, is to cut off the hammer spur, its pretty easy to do, than You just polish the cut area, you can do it in an aparatement with a dremel tool. Two problems with that are:
1 you'r reducing the critical mass (considering a regular hardware store hammer its better to reduce the handle mass than the hammer part itself)
2 your gun will be DAO yet the trigger will still be exposed (important for self defence - You pull your gun out if someone grabs it by the hammer area you will not make a shot. IMO the only way a DAO is an advantage is when the hammer is "hidden"
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Old March 30th, 2011, 07:32 PM   #70
 
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Here’s a photo of an old GP100 hammer of mine marked up as to where I would skeletonize a hammer. Sorry for the lack of professionalism – obviously I’m no artist.

I don’t plan to skeletonize my good hammer because the steel is, I think, too hard for the do-it-yourselfer. There’s 3 gunsmiths I know of here; I might get around to asking them some day, some year, mebbe, about doing it for me and asking how much would it be.

Let me know what y’all think. Please don’t rely exclusively on my measurements. The blackened area on the hammer is done very roughly to scale.

The letter A points to a couple of intersecting dotted lines that outline the slot the hammer-dog rests in, and the drilled tube(?) the hammer-dog plunger and spring are located in. We’ve got to be sure not to drill too close to those somewhat hidden items, right? The hammer-dog plunger & spring tube is about 3/32” in diameter.

Although I’ve read somewhere that ¼” from the hammer pivot hole is good, to me 3/16” is enough to clear the hammer-dog tube and then some. Also I figure 3/32” from the hammer-dog slot should be safe enough.

The blackened area is my recommended drillable area. I estimate 3 x ¼” holes or 4 x 3/16” will fit. The letter B in the photo points to 1/8” on the backside of the hammer’s ‘neck’. That’s the edge of the gun frame. If you’re like me and want to be sure that any holes are hidden for protection against catching dirt, twigs and other obstructions or just for looks, then you’ll need to make sure that the edge of any hole you drill stays inside the back edge of the blackened area.

I like the idea of leaving the hammer’s ‘head’ alone and so I stopped the blackened area at the bottom of the spur. Not much of a drillable area but there you have it.

Last edited by NormNip; March 30th, 2011 at 07:42 PM.
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Old April 2nd, 2011, 05:38 PM   #71
 
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NormNip, good plan but hard to execute, even gunsmiths don't like this hammer (at least in Northern IL) on a drill press I always have the same problem, drilling starts, than stops after about 2mm, tried carbite, titanium coated and diamond coated bits with poor results. So I would recommend You start any drilling in the area within the frame-not exposed. If You have a grinder or a dremel You can do what i did (refer to photos on previous posts) and narrow the handle down to give it an hour-glass shape when looking from the back. Or You can grind the front part of the hammer handle (left side on You picture, under the head-contact area) to give it a kind of shape like this - " ) "

Last edited by PaPaPork; April 2nd, 2011 at 05:44 PM.
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Old April 3rd, 2011, 07:03 AM   #72
 
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[IMG][/IMG]

PaPaPork,

I like your curved shape idea and the fact that it would be hidden. BUT there is less than a 1/4" to play with from the top of the hammer dog to the bottom of the hammer spur. It wouldn't be worth the trouble, and for a kitchen table gunsmith like me, not worth the risk. For that matter you could even take off some from the back until its flush or almost flush with the frame. Or make it concave like scooping out a watermelon – just a little harder.

It's very low on my priority list but when I've got nothing better to do I'll probably chat about it with some of the gunsmiths here in the Phoenix area. I've got an old hammer I could test them with.

The above image is a more measured effort of what I think could be done. The little black dots would be 1/8”. I think I would only drill 5 and not drill the 6th one nearest the hammer strut pivot because it’s too close for comfort.

How the hell Ruger is able to cut and drill this stuff to make an entire revolver – affordable - is amazing to me.
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Old April 3rd, 2011, 10:04 AM   #73
 
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NormNip, Ruger doesnt cut and drill, they cast and stamp parts and thats what makes them afordable, and thats also what makes the trigger look like the famous loch ness monster

If Your going just for drilling holes (without connecting them and machining a path) I would go for a lot bigger holes as the ones on the pics are very tiny. Also try to keep them more in line with the overall shape of the hammer so there is equal distance form edges of holes to edges of the hammer - especially in the exposed "handle" area. Im going to use Your picture - if there is a problem let me know and I will delete it:
the ")" I was talking about few posts ago is in yellow
If I had to do this again I WOULD NOT GO for an HOUR GLASS shape as its very dificult to keep both sides simetrical if You are using a grinder (as seen on my pics on prev pages) If I had do it again I would grind the part marked in red, no drilling, not anything else, just dremel/grind it out, than give it a brushed or polished finnish and your done. that should be at least 10%-15% improvement if not more.
And than there is the area on the bottom of the loch ness monster I indicated with arrows and I am wondering what kind of possibilities are hiding there
Attached Images
File Type: jpg GP100Hammer2.jpg (58.1 KB, 37 views)

Last edited by PaPaPork; April 3rd, 2011 at 03:49 PM.
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Old April 3rd, 2011, 11:59 AM   #74
 
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PaPaPork,

Outstanding. Wow. I hadn't given any thought at all to the area you point to in blue.

I'm asking for clarification for the following you said in this last post: " . . .If I had do it again I would grind the part marked in blue . . " Did you mean red? I say this because then you speak of your blue markings again as if you were going onto something else. POST CORRECTED.

I like your idea alot. It's work that a kitchen gunsmith can do slowly and carefully - all the while he can stop and put it back in his gun and still fire it. He can stop at any time and be done with it.

As for my drill holes appearing too small. I was careful in measuring my margins for error. Unless a person is comfortable and feels 1/32" is as wide as a 6 lane highway to do work in, I'd stick to my picture. Remember, I want to be sure I don't get too close to: 1) the hammer dog plunger & spring tube; 2) the hammer dog slot; 3) the edge of the frame; and 4) stop close to the spur. It really doesn't leave much room to do much. You can see that in my first photo.

In my previous post in this thread I suggest using a couple of sizes greater than 1/8" but after drawing it more carefully it came down to 1/8". I guess I'm erring on the side of caution. Think of them as giant pilot holes that can always be drilled out bigger later.

Anyway, I like your idea a whole lot better though. If you or someone could confirm that the area you point to in blue is fair game , man, we'd be down to using 3 lb hammer springs in no time!

Last edited by NormNip; April 3rd, 2011 at 04:24 PM.
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Old April 3rd, 2011, 03:52 PM   #75
 
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thanks NormNip - that was my mistake with the colors - I already corrected the initial post - If I was to do it again i would dremel out the back under the spur and partialy the round surface (red on photo).

Take a look at the 3 top dots You made on Your hammer, You want to keep them parallel to the edge of the hammer handle , and You have them curved, they will be exposed at all times- keep that in mind.

for The area pointed in blue we need some seriously experienced person to answer....

Last edited by PaPaPork; April 3rd, 2011 at 03:55 PM.
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