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GP100 Hammer modification

This is a discussion on GP100 Hammer modification within the Gunsmithing forums, part of the Firearm Forum category; Chevota, I did try the brushed look and I did not like it, I would have to change the whole hammer to that finnish. "sanding ...


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Old May 26th, 2009, 08:03 PM   #31
 
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Chevota, I did try the brushed look and I did not like it, I would have to change the whole hammer to that finnish.
"sanding .100 from the top..." do You mean the hammer step?? this is a part of the IBOK, but I don't think it will help to keep the locktime down

I did think about the honeycomb - but do You think You can get each hole in the excact location?

MagnumWill, You should open a buisness - "via mail hammer skeletonizning"

Cordite could You explain the "cut off wheel instead of holes" idea...



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Old May 27th, 2009, 07:28 AM   #32
 
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You can get various size cutoff wheels for a Dremel tool that will cut through hardened steel. Looking at Iowegan's pic of a hammer with the cutout area marked in black there are several long straight surfaces and with a little imagination you can extend straight cut lines throughout the rest of the cutout area. Using the Dremel slowly plunge cut along the straight cut lines. You will have to flip the hammer over to complete the cuts due to the round cutoff wheel. This will leave the rounded areas to be finished up with a die grinder. Using a table mount for the die grinder, like this one: http://finewoodworking.taunton.com/i...-grinder-table
will let you get that spiffy 90 degree grind although you can do it with a hand-held die grinder if you take your time.

Remember your goggles and breath mask as steel and grinder dust will be flying along with the sparks. Ear protection would be a good idea as well.
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Old May 27th, 2009, 07:40 AM   #33
 
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If all else fails, break out the gas axe! Seriously, though, you can use a small tip cutting torch for the initial cutout.

http://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Cutting-Torch

That will cut out the center section in any hammer. Die grind your way from there to finish the cutout. As long as you don't try to use the torch near the finished inside edges the hammer heat treat will be okay.
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Old May 30th, 2009, 05:54 AM   #34
 
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Cordite, post some pic's when You're done !! :P
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Old December 1st, 2010, 08:10 PM   #35
 
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In the meanwhile I did modify the hammer of three rifles. Main effect is reduced gun jump. Noticeably. Just by dryfiring and observing the reticles movement on a distant object you can tell the difference. To give an example, I did reduce the hammer of a Remington SPR 18 from about 360grs to 330grs by cutting the hammers spur. Unbelievable what a difference this makes.

Not as easy to make the effects visible for a revolver, but it certainly is there.

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Old December 3rd, 2010, 02:21 AM   #36
 
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More of the Physics Behind a Light Hammer

Just want to throw in the following url
Titanium hammers (John Bercovitz; Steven R Faber)

Supports my theory of the light hammer not changing anything in energy and that lighten the hammer on the outside is ok and by looking at the interaction between hammer and firing pin explains why Iowegans observations - more energy on the primer - is right.

To resume:
- Light hammer yields faster lock time
- Light hammer yields less gun jump
- Light hammer doesn't cause light primer strikes, quite to the contrary. Faster firing pin yields more free energy on the pin, hence better ignition.

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Old December 18th, 2010, 08:26 AM   #37
 
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Iowegan,

I noticed in your photo above showing the possible area where to remove material from the hammer that you have about 1/8"of material left around the pivot and the the cutout goes above the spur.

Here's a copy from a blog of what appears to be an excerpt of your IBOK (which I have ordered a copy of from you recently):

". . . The critical mass portion of the hammer is the spur and above. This mass functions much like a hammer used to drive nails. The “handle” of the hammer is the area below the spur and above the fulcrum (pivot pin). You don’t want to remove any metal within ” of the center of the pivot pin hole, or the hammer will develop too much side play . . "

Would you please clear this up?

Thanks and Happy Holidays.

Last edited by NormNip; December 18th, 2010 at 10:38 AM.
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Old December 18th, 2010, 11:13 AM   #38
 
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PaPaPork - just curious how the hammer has worked out over the long term? Been thinking of doing the same to mine. Narrowing the sides gives it a profile somewhat like a S&W hammer.

MagnumWill - did you ever get around to doing a CNC hammer?
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Old December 19th, 2010, 07:51 PM   #39
 
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Did do a hammer mod my way, i.e. took mass away where I think it matters: on the outer diameter.

As written above did it that way on rifles. There I can easily evaluate it - works as expected, little mass taken away gets you a great enhancement. See my figures above, how little makes a net discernable difference!!!

On my GP100 I did it as well. You might be able to get an visual impression of it here:
180gr SJHP before LilGun 357 in Ruger GP160

If you do the mod on the outside (the spur and around) you can simply grind the material off. Quite to the contrary of what is true for drilling you can grind it away like butter.

On the GP100 - as opposed to what is true with the rifles - I am unable to see the effect except that the gun gets easier to to draw on concealed carry.
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Old December 20th, 2010, 10:01 AM   #40
 
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Thanks, Fritz for your post linking the picture. I would think that to discern much of a difference one would need to remove a significant % of the mass. There should be a mathematical formula somewhere for this.
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Old December 20th, 2010, 04:36 PM   #41
 
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How much to remove

As stated earlier have done the mod on three rifles and on my GP100 - the one on the picture.

Only numbers still available are those of the Baikal. Less than 10% taken on the spur, i.e. as far from the hammers center as the firing pin is hit.

You think you have taken away nothing. But the difference is evident. Do a lot of dry firing and take notes. Before the mod there was a gunjump of about 1/2 MOA every second "shot". After the mod the gun rests silent. 100% silent. If I haven't seen it, I would not believe it.

Same astonishing effect on the other rifles. On the GP100 it should not be so different. But me, I simply can't discerne any gun jump on a revolver with iron sights, sorry.

From eyballing what is taken away according to Iowegans mod or if you have a look at Moulds Speed Lock hammer for the No 1, this is really not much you have to take away if you go to the outside of the hammer.

This mod is supported by theory and evidence ;-)
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Old December 20th, 2010, 04:54 PM   #42
 
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Did try and show in Iowegans pic where I took material away. It is easy to get the 10% of mass reduction. HammerMod.jpg
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Old December 21st, 2010, 08:14 AM   #43
 
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Thanks, Fritz. I was curious due to another thought. Randy Lee of Apex Tactical is known for his ultralight double action S&W's (website: Welcome to Apex Tactical Specialties, Inc. ). I was thinking I wonder how much one could reduce mainspring tension without going too radical on the hammer mass reduction. Apex Tactical has an array of hammers. Some of his S&W's have a double action of about 4 lbs. I think he created a carry gun, S&W 66 K frame once for someone that had a 6 lb double action and was reliable. I would think one could do a carry gun in GP-100 in the mid 6 lbs for double action easily.
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Old January 30th, 2011, 02:40 PM   #44
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rover View Post
PaPaPork - just curious how the hammer has worked out over the long term? Been thinking of doing the same to mine. Narrowing the sides gives it a profile somewhat like a S&W hammer.

MagnumWill - did you ever get around to doing a CNC hammer?
I had to take a break from this (in the mean time I got married, and had a child)

anyhow, If You just want to narrow the sides than go for it, the right way of doing this would be to have them machined down, Knowing how tough it is I would suggest using comercial grade mill (not a craftsman drill press with a milling base or similar garrage stuff)other option is to grind it down like I did, that way it will not get Hot, but it will be hard to get a proffesional looking hammer.

BTW You need to decide if You want to narrow down the part that sits within the frame. I just narrowed down the "hammer handle" but the round area beneath that has tons of room for weight loss... the problem is that the hammer might look "out of place" or "borrowed" from a different gun with the extra room between frame and hammer.

If I can help in any way let me know

PS. does anyone have any experience with the following shims??
Ruger Hammer & Trigger Shims Ruger Sa Trigger Shims - Power Custom
would these fit into ruger DA revolver??

Last edited by PaPaPork; January 30th, 2011 at 06:56 PM.
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Old January 31st, 2011, 09:12 AM   #45
 
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PaPaPork - Thanks for replying. Think you might be right to have someone with a machine shop to mill that portion of the hammer down. I have thought about the portion of the hammer that sits in the frame. Actually, with all the machine work I have thought about a mod someone a long time ago offered for S&W's, install a bearing in the hammer pivot hole. If the bearing protruded somewhat from the hammer one could fit it to the frame to act as a hammer boss. Too bad one couldn't get someone like Randy Lee to knock out some lightweight GP or SP hammers on his CNC machines. It would be interesting to see a "full race" GP-100.
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