This is a discussion on Correct Stones for gunsmith work? within the Gunsmithing forums, part of the Firearm Forum category; Hi All;
I am contemplating doing a little "tuning" on my SP101 (as well as my CZ-75 B), nothing major, just a little "smoothing" of ...
I am contemplating doing a little "tuning" on my SP101 (as well as my CZ-75 B), nothing major, just a little "smoothing" of critical parts, here and there) and was wondering if anyone can clue me in to which "stones" that Brownells sells would be best for a beginner-tinkerer (and man, those items are expensive), so I'd like to keep the "assortment" to the bare minimum necessary. Thanks in advance for any replies that this generates!
I bought a set from Trapper Gun Works many years ago. I don't think Trapper exists anymore. They were a sample set of four stones for polishing and different degrees of metal removal, nothing compared to a file. I am not at home now so I can't tell you what kind of stones they are but check Brownells for some type of starter kit that contains a few different kinds.
Try wrapping different grit paper around files or for some work, dowels. Stones are expensive but with gas at $4.00 gal. if I stay home for a week they will be a bargin. The paper and files work for me. Eric
Trailsman 22, Having gunsmithed for 42+ years I can advise you not to "fudge" on a good set of stones. "If" you take care of them, they will last you a lifetime! I would recommend a set of Norton India Stones. The "Hard" Arkansas stones are great for the finishing touch but may be out of your price range. You can do any gun work there is with the "India" set. As a side note to "stones", I have broken only "one" stone in 42 years and still use the two half's of that stone! Take care of "whatever" you decide to get. I have never had a need to procure or use Ceramic stones. India's and Arkansas's have met all of my needs...........................Dick
Last edited by bowhunter; April 25th, 2008 at 01:36 PM.
I just got done with my SP101 tuning and spring swap (all posted here) and now get reliable functioning with the 10lb hammer spring and 8lb return spring and the pull is smoooooth. I am not a machinist, gunsmith, metal worker, or even that good with tools, I just followed Iowegan's IBOK. The only things I used were a piece of 600 grit sandpaper, a piece of 2200 grit wet/dry sandpaper, and a dremel with a polishing wheel and jewler's rouge (I got the $8 dremel polishing kit at Walmart). I spent probably 3 hours total polishing while watching tv. The 600 grit I only used in a couple of steps where the corners needed to be smoothed out on the stamped parts. Other than that everything was done with the 2200 and the pieces looked like a mirror even before the final polish with the dremel. The nice think about the 2200 grit is you would have to sit and sand for long, long time before you could remove enough metal to effect functioning. Unless you are going to be changing the angles on things I would just pay a visit to autozone and get some 600, 2200 and maybe some 4000 if you don't have a Dremel. It will cost under $10 and you'll have enough to do 10 guns. The files seem like a way to get in trouble quick. If you are going that route I'd hit a local machine shop and buy some scrap pieces of stainless to practice on before touching the gun with them.
Edit: I did use my old schrade sharpening stone to take the little bit off the front of the hammer. It's like this one that runs $2.99 at Smokey Mountain Knifeworks