Ruger Forum

BRL · July 24th, 2012, 08:02 AM

I would like to reduce the trigger pull weight slightly, as well as eliminate, (or greatly reduce) the mushy "let-off" that I have now.

I've heard that "A person who does his/her own trigger job, has a fool for a gunsmith", but I just happen to be just such a fool, and was wondering if there is any procedure on line that could save me the expense of purchasing a book...unless Iowegan still has them for sale someplace.

I'm not worrying about the gun going FULL AUTO or something.

NAASilent · July 24th, 2012, 08:08 AM

Iwogen's book is the best I've seen, and well worth the pittance he is asking for them.

hal · July 24th, 2012, 09:17 AM

What ever you do stay away from the trigger and hammer, try changing the springs, several after market springs work very well,,Try Wolf spring site for some examples.

RAYMOND · July 24th, 2012, 09:42 AM

Change the springs.

bwinters · July 24th, 2012, 09:59 AM

Before i pay for a trigger job I would dry fire the gun 5-600 times that will likely smooth things out for free.

red feather · July 24th, 2012, 04:59 PM

Get a spring kit from wolfe springs.I tried one but removed it as I thought the trigger to light for a hunting wepon..

BRL · July 25th, 2012, 12:19 PM

I will try the lighter Wolff trigger return spring first.

I really don't want to slow that big SBH hammer down even more, with a lighter spring.

Thank you all for your thoughts on the subject.

I'll start off slowly with attempting improvments.

CtYankee · July 30th, 2012, 01:54 PM

Well maybe I am a fool, I took a fine little file and a stone to my sear & hammer mating surfaces. My father was a tool & die maker, so I had fine little files and a collection of stones. I haven't lightened any of the springs - yet. My trigger pull is a little under 3lbs, but the best improvement is that it is smooth.

Old Shooter · August 20th, 2012, 04:02 PM

Do an internet search ,there are several articles about improving trigger pull by bending the trigger spring it works great ,can be done by most anyone and costs 0$.

JaxCatm · August 20th, 2012, 04:06 PM

I can give you a thumbs up on the Power Custom kit. Yes it's a good bit of money but you get what you pay for. Maybe I'm just a chicken when it comes to altering critical contact points on something that can bite me. But hey then again every good gunsmith doing trigger jobs had to learn somewhere.

hal · August 20th, 2012, 04:12 PM

I hope that you know that the hammer and sear are probably just case hardened, if not re hardned after filing, they will break, it may take some time but they will break

Tom in Arizona · August 20th, 2012, 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BRL

I will try the lighter Wolff trigger return spring first.

I really don't want to slow that big SBH hammer down even more, with a lighter spring.

Thank you all for your thoughts on the subject.

I'll start off slowly with attempting improvments.

I have done a few SBH's with both the Wolffe & Wilson springs. No failures with any primers using the lightest springs , 17 lb. hammer & 37 oz. trigger return. I believe Wolffe offers a combo pack with different hammer spring weigths.

opos · August 20th, 2012, 05:07 PM

There's a thing called the "poor man's trigger job" or something like that where you remove one leg of the spring....I've heard that's a really bad idea in the long run....just passing that along if it comes up...supposed to be a 5 minute fix and it's probably worth about the 5 minutes in the long run...also that same "procedure" talkes about mating the trigger to the sear....I have a Vaquero that the prior owner "mated to the sear" and it was so well mated that the sear was damaged and had to be replaced....no shortcuts for the right deal.

BRL · August 23rd, 2012, 10:23 PM

So I get Jerry Kuhnhausen's book on Ruger SA revolvers, thinking that it would guide me through the stoning process, and it ends up telling me to leave the original OM stuff alone, and just get some reduced power springs...