Ruger Forum

pell · August 24th, 2012, 01:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by opos

There's a thing called the "poor man's trigger job" or something like that where you remove one leg of the spring....I've heard that's a really bad idea in the long run....just passing that along if it comes up...supposed to be a 5 minute fix and it's probably worth about the 5 minutes in the long run...also that same "procedure" talkes about mating the trigger to the sear....I have a Vaquero that the prior owner "mated to the sear" and it was so well mated that the sear was damaged and had to be replaced....no shortcuts for the right deal.

The Poor Boy's trigger job is described here by Jeff Quinn.

Quinn is a knowledgable, experienced guy and he cautions:

Quote:

I do not suggest that you try this procedure on a lower quality revolver. If the gun has good, hard internal parts, this procedure will do no harm, and results in a surprisingly good trigger pull, for absolutely no money. On a cheap gun with soft parts, you will ruin the trigger ...

Note that in mating the sear/trigger, Quinn cautions

Quote:

Don't over-do it. You want to smooth it, not wear it out.

BRL · August 30th, 2012, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom in Arizona

I have done a few SBH's with both the Wolffe & Wilson springs. No failures with any primers using the lightest springs , 17 lb. hammer & 37 oz. trigger return. I believe Wolffe offers a combo pack with different hammer spring weigths.

So I installed the 17lb. hammer spring, the reduced power trigger spring, the extra power base pin latch spring, and I gave a little more clearence to my grip frame opening for the wider SBH trigger.

I've had more powerful hammer springs on cap guns, but the primers ignite well, and the trigger feel is improved, but it still has that creepy 2 stage feel to me.

Guess I'm not quite as foolish as I thought because Jerry K. and too many others say to leave the sear nose & hammer hooks alone.

Heck it's just for plinking anyway.

MSD Mike · September 14th, 2012, 02:41 PM

Rather than removing one leg of the trigger spring you can also bend both legs of the spring for a reduced trigger pull. This requires disassembly of the revolver but I prefer it to removing a leg of the spring.

Thanks

Mike

Hans13 · September 14th, 2012, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BRL

I will try the lighter Wolff trigger return spring first.

I really don't want to slow that big SBH hammer down even more, with a lighter spring.

Thank you all for your thoughts on the subject.

I'll start off slowly with attempting improvments.

Wow! Love that gun! Now I need a Frankenstein BH too!

BRL · September 14th, 2012, 07:38 PM

Thanks Hans13

Glad you like it.

I'm trying something new by actually hanging on to my Old Model Rugers, instead of wallowing in self pity for selling them all off.

So far, so good.

I put the stock hammer spring back in because I think Iowegan is right, I get a better feel for when the trigger is about to release the hammer, even with a little trigger creep.

And a little faster lock time can't hurt either.

Have yet to field test it that way though.