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82 Degree Chamfering

This is a discussion on 82 Degree Chamfering within the Gunsmithing forums, part of the Firearm Forum category; Curious about the 82 degree chamfering I've read about on the cylinder charge holes. Anyone done this? I'm a bit of a chicken when it ...


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Old February 28th, 2011, 03:01 PM   #1
 
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82 Degree Chamfering

Curious about the 82 degree chamfering I've read about on the cylinder charge holes. Anyone done this? I'm a bit of a chicken when it comes to taking tools(other than Mother's or stones) to a pistol...especially one's that grind metal. It sounds like a good idea and would no doubt facilitate loading the cylinders with moon clips or speed loaders using lead bullets. does this tool have a T-handle and if so, how do you know when enough turns is enough?



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Old March 1st, 2011, 06:33 AM   #2
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ColColt, You can buy the 82 deg cutter by itself or you can buy a kit with the "T" handle. The procedure is very easy .... put spent cases in all chambers except the one you are chamfering. Insert the pilot on the T-handle shaft then insert the shaft into one of the chambers. Thread the cutter on the T-handle shaft. Hold the pilot in position to center the tool then pull lightly while rotating the T-handle clockwise. After a few twists, remove the cutter and inspect your work. You want the cutter angle to break the sharp chamber edge and leave a cut about 1/4" deep. This will make chambering ammo much easier ... both single loading and speed loaders. Chamfer all chambers an equal amount. When starting on a new hole, remove the spent case and insert it in the previous hole. I put a set of instructions (with pictures) in the library that shows how to chamfer a forcing cone. This procedure is identical except it is the cylinder and it uses an 82 deg cutter instead of a 11 deg cutter. See: http://rugerforum.net/library/18570-...hamfering.html
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Old March 1st, 2011, 04:34 PM   #3
 
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Looks like 1/4" would get you into the area where the case head is supported but, that's just a novice observation. so you continue to cut until the tool is all the way through from what I gleaned from the pdf file. A little scary if you've never done it before but one heck of a great idea. I'll read over the instructions again as I'm giving serious thought to this. Very well documented and informative. You're an amazing fellow.
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Old March 1st, 2011, 06:15 PM   #4
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ColColt, No, you don't cut all the way through. You must have read the instructions for reaming cylinder throats instead of instructions for chamfering a forcing cone. The concept is to make a funnel like start in each chamber so cartridges will feed easily without catching on the sharp chamber mouth.

When you do the 82 deg chamber chamfer, you end up cutting into the ejector petals but you do NOT want to go deep enough where the cutter touches the ratchet column. The spent cases hold the "star wheel" (ejector) in position so the cut in the petal will align with the cut in the cylinder. 1/4" deep is absolute max ... 1/8" is probably more realistic. The deeper you go, the larger the funnel will be and the easier it is to rapid load with speed loaders or moon clips but if you go too far, the cutter will damage the ratchet column.
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Old March 1st, 2011, 06:46 PM   #5
 
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I read the right one only wrong. The photos show the ratchet and extractor assembly removed with just the cylinder. Looks to me like the "star" would be left attached to the cylinder as it's part of the chamber that the cartridge slides into and it also chamfered. Perhaps only the cylinder is all that's needed but, it just looked that way to me until I tried loading a dummy round up and the only thing a lead bullet SWC gets snagged on is the cylinder mouth itself.
What are you calling the ejector petals? Is this what I call the star? With the ejector/extractor column removed there's nothing left but the cylinder as shown in the pics.
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Old March 1st, 2011, 08:43 PM   #6
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ColColt, Yes, the petals are the extensions from the ejector (think flowers). The photo in the instructions is a SA revolver and has no ejector on the cylinder. When you chamfer DA chambers, you must leave the ejector in place and chamfer the petals or you will get a goofy shaped hole that doesn't prevent the case mouth or bullet from snagging. When done properly, each chamber mouth looks like it has a small funnel.
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Old March 2nd, 2011, 02:26 PM   #7
 
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Which brand would you recommend with a T-handle? The ones I've seen don't have a handle. The one I saw at Brownell's don't show a photo.
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Old March 3rd, 2011, 11:24 AM   #8
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I bought the 11 deg forcing cone kit from Brownell's that also included the 82 deg reamer, shaft, bore guide, and "T" handle.
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Old March 3rd, 2011, 04:29 PM   #9
 
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I saw where the "18 degree"(misnomer?) cutter has been discontinued so the other kit may be the best bet.

BROWNELLS : .38-.45 BASIC CHAMFERING KIT - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS
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Old March 3rd, 2011, 06:29 PM   #10
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When I bought my kit, it came with the 82 deg cutter. Guess they have made some changes so now you have to buy the 82 deg cutter separate. See: BROWNELLS : 82 CHAMFER CUTTER - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS
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Old March 4th, 2011, 08:02 AM   #11
 
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Is the 18 degree chamfer cutter in the above link with the kit the same as an 82 degree chamfer tool? I can't image what an 18 degree tool is for. Perhaps a misprint?
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Old March 4th, 2011, 08:42 AM   #12
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No, the 18 deg forcing cone reamer (chamfer tool) is totally different. It looks and works just like the 11 deg forcing cone reamer but with a much wider angle. The 18 deg tool was popular a few years ago but gun owners found they were loosing quite a bit of velocity due to excessive leakage at the forcing cone.
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