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Finish the Job, 870 Super Express Magnum Riot

This is a discussion on Finish the Job, 870 Super Express Magnum Riot within the Gunsmithing forums, part of the Firearm Forum category; Got this one with a rib and a barrel hacked unevenly to 18 5/8ish wobbly inches. Paint and a shortened stock. It was a quickie ...


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Old October 12th, 2016, 04:05 PM   #1
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Finish the Job, 870 Super Express Magnum Riot

Got this one with a rib and a barrel hacked unevenly to 18 5/8ish wobbly inches. Paint and a shortened stock. It was a quickie riot gun on a 3.5" pump gun. We'll make it pretty and functional.

Streamline first...get the rib off the barrel. Gentle heat, solder gives and the rib bones pop off easy. Knocking down the solder with a file will require reblued but this one will deserve it given the added components are what I consider top end and priced as if they in fact are top end. But, it needs to be reliable too, so.....top end.

Once the rib is off its a simple matter to fit up the Nordic +2 extension after drilling out the spring retainer buttons in the original mag tube. Once that's done, the Nordic extension is a simple bolt on.

Inside is a low drag red anodized Nordic follower for empty status checks and smooth friction free feeding of shells to the carrier.

For practical tactical purposes I added the Pic Rail mount on the optional barrel to extension clamp. Also added is a forward sling mount on the same barrel to extension clamp. I don't like the pop on/off swivels so will adapt an Uncle mikes to the forward sling mount for a no fail no fall off no wear out forward mounting point. Note, sling and pic rail can swap sides if ya like.

Front sight will be a green glow worm bead thingie threaded clean through the now crowned barrel (which incidentally, cleaned up with a hand piloted reamer at 18 9/16" breech to muzzle.

Probably add a spacer to the sawn off stock and since its all birch, likely clean off the camo and replace it with black paint finish.

In adding the +2 extension I put in the replacement full length spring, its long enough for the +5 or so long long extensions but it all fits and provides very solid and smooth feed. The mag capacity with the +2 extension is 6 each 2 3/4" shells + one in the chamber. I don't have 3" or 3.5" shells to check with but I expect it'll hold 6+1 on the 3"ers and at least 5+1 on the 3.5"ers.

Oh yeah....when I popped off the vent rib and crowned the crooked muzzle (it looked like a star washer out front) I also ran in the long forcing cone reamer and gave this one a nice smooth long forcing cone....might as well do it when ya have the tooling, time and the barrel is off..

Here we go...
















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Old October 12th, 2016, 05:03 PM   #2
 
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or get an 887 tactical.
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Old October 12th, 2016, 05:12 PM   #3
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I like what you're creating. I like that you knocked off the rail.
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Old October 12th, 2016, 05:29 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwinters View Post
or get an 887 tactical.
Ya go's with whatcha got
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Old October 12th, 2016, 05:31 PM   #5
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I like what you're creating. I like that you knocked off the rail.
Thanks. At next to nothing price wise and no significant wear other than some hacking, it'll come out fine, functional and half the new price. I think it'll be a good one. After all, its an 870!
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Old November 4th, 2016, 11:09 AM   #6
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All done but the cosmetics now.

Rear sling mount. It goes in the buttstock not less than 2" from the end of the stock (end of the wood, not end of the pad) to prevent cracking the stock should one ground the buttplate/recoil pad too hard. This one tore out anyway, so time to move it to the proper location.



Glow dot front sight, low profile, is mounted on the barrel. It'll have its shank shortened slightly later so it doesn't protrude into the bore and be installed with blue Loctite after bluing the barrel.



Most slings come with detachable sling loops. This mount is made for a quick release button. I don't like the button type sling swivel mounts. A push of the button and the sling falls off. Plus they are only attached by four small spring loaded balls. Not much. So, without modifying the sling mount tab (so a quick release swivel button can be used by someone later if they just gotta have it).....a steel sleeve is made up to go on the mount tab. Its drilled and an Uncle Mikes sling swivel is screwed in, soldered into the sleeve and cross pinned from the rear. The swivel, swivels. And it can't be removed unless the cross tab is cut away from the rear side. To remove the sling, unscrew the cap on the sling loop, press it in and sling is off. No buttons or balls to fail.

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Old November 30th, 2016, 02:43 PM   #7
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Ugly green camo paint off. This'll give me a chance to sand the wood and recoil pad and make the pad sides look decent. Primer then black truck liner for this plain wood.

20 minutes with water based citrus paint remover and it basically blotted off with a dull knife blade and steel wool. Water clean up. For not, JB weld in the torn out swivel screw hole and under all the paint.....That slot up front, jb weld filler there too to cover up where the prior owner started in with a hacksaw to make a pistol grip and then wisely.....stopped the butcher!





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Old December 2nd, 2016, 12:18 PM   #8
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Put three coats of rustoleum truck bed liner spray. Looks decent. It'll be a good knock around finish on the birch wood, somewhat grippie, easy touch up and if it holds up like it did on the wood bed of Ol John Lee, pretty darn good.

Get some pics later. Its dryin now.....stinks too!
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Old December 3rd, 2016, 03:30 AM   #9
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Forend completed and reassembled after a light scrub with 0000 steel wool to remove the green overspray paint from the prior camo job.....Folks, really should take things apart before painting! I won't reblued the slide parts. They are in good shape and won't need it.



Recoil pad had been assembled several times using an ungreased screwdriver....the holes were torn up. Cleaned them out with a sharpened .270 case to freshen up the edges. Though this pad can use a Phillips driver or square driver to install the screws, its factory screw heads are set up for square drive first and Phillips if ya just have to....the remaining Phillips slots around the square drive hole are tiny and Phillips is an emergency choice for pad removal.



Edges of the pad were cleaned up from their heavy scaring (acquired during the original finish strip to add camo paint) by installing the pad and running it and the stock with 120g on a jitterbug. Here buffed with 0000 steel wool and completed.



Rear swivel reinstalled in its more forward location from the too far back torn out original spot.....



The texture feels/looks good and should not irritate anything more sensitive than a bare baby bottom....and it still shows the negative factory checkering on grip and forend.



Buttcuff installed....personal choice, I don't like ammo on the sling where it interferes with the support arm nor do I like it on the action where it interferes with the slide release and/or safety....so....buttcuff.



Warm a sharpened .270 case to ouch temp, meltcut the buttcuff so it slides over the sling swivel mount.



Stocks are now packaged and padded and set aside. Next job is to decide how much of this old shotty to reblued, get some sauce gathered up and get the right parts rusting away in the damp box.
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Old December 3rd, 2016, 04:08 AM   #10
 
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Good job. I would suggest a single point sling instead of (or in addition to) the current sling mounts. The single point sling uses a plate sandwiched between the butt stock and the receiver.
Depending on the style of sling mount used, sometimes you have the relive the stock just a bit to maintain the same length of pull. It's an easy operation where you scribe a line and then cut away just enough material from the stock to compensate for the thickness of the sling plate.
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Old December 4th, 2016, 04:00 AM   #11
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Thanks. I don't reckon its needed....prolly ain't gonna be cutting the pie around doorways on tactical entries with this one much! But they are neat/sturdy mounts with a good sling.
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Old December 4th, 2016, 06:59 AM   #12
 
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I agree that it's not needed but just throwing it out there.

I've used both the traditional 2 point slings and the 1 point sling. Both types have their pros & cons but I'll never go back to a 2 point sling. Just personal preference.

Another point on the 870 is the extended fore end. Remington has used different styles of fore ends over the years, including the extended one on your shotgun. That fore end will partially cover the receiver when it's fully to the rear. Some people like the extended fore end because it allows a grip closer to the receiver but others don't like it because it makes clearing a jam more difficult (like if you inadvertently get a shell in the magazine tube backwards under stress). Again, personal preference.

Nice job on saving that 870 from Bubba.
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Old December 4th, 2016, 09:27 AM   #13
 
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Hey there Sharps40 so far everything looks great.
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Old December 4th, 2016, 10:06 AM   #14
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Thanks. I think its lookin pretty good too.

Also....

Yep, the short forends are pretty handy and do help if there is a jam.
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Old December 4th, 2016, 05:01 PM   #15
 
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Nice work. i own an 887 tactical that is similar.
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