Base Pin problem, OM BH .357This is a discussion on Base Pin problem, OM BH .357 within the Gunsmithing forums, part of the Firearm Forum category; I took my OM BH .357 to the range today and put 36 full power mag loads through it. Some cast, some jacketed.
Now the ...  |
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April 18th, 2007, 01:04 PM
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#1 |
Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 346
| Base Pin problem, OM BH .357
I took my OM BH .357 to the range today and put 36 full power mag loads through it. Some cast, some jacketed.
Now the base pin will not come out. The pin rotates with the cylinder, and I've removed the latch assembly.
The base pin is getting stuck IN the cylinder. This happened the last time I shot this Ruger too so I switched base pins. Same problem.
After the last time I cleaned it really good and lightly lubed it. But the problem still exists.
Any ideas of what I need to do to fix this annoying problem?
I just remembered, this is the third time I've had it to the range. The first time it still had the conversion action base pin in it. That base pin did not stick, or cause any trouble. I don't want to put that pin back in. I'd rather fix the problem and use the original one.
Joe
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April 19th, 2007, 04:45 AM
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#2 |
Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Chardon, Ohio, USA.
Posts: 409
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Sounds like you are getting "blow by" (fouling) down into and around the gas ring/seal at the front of the cylinder. Maybe a dab of gun grease at the front , leading edge will trap any from getting in, but will also 'collect" some there???
Maybe your forcing cone needs to be "opened" a bit, to reduce this "blow by".............
The other thing is make sure there are NO burrs or raised edges inside the cylinder center bore.
At least the center pin ain't falling or shooting "out"...........
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April 19th, 2007, 06:18 AM
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#3 |
Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 346
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Dan,
I was thinking the same thing about the blow by. What I'm wondering is why it would happen with both of the original base pins, but not the conversion base pin. Unless maybe the conversion base pin is larger in diameter than the original ones. I'll check them and see.
As for the forcing cone, it looks pretty good, but I'm not an expert on them. I'll look it over better after cleaning it.
What is the tolerances for end shake on Rugers like this? I haven't measured this one yet.
One other thing. I noticed that my new steel Ruger brand ejector rod housing is a bit loose at the cylinder frame end. When I installed it I cleaned the hole in the barrel and the screw and blue Locktited it in. After two trips to the range it appears to have loosened up a bit. Any thoughts on how to tighten up the rear of the housing?
Joe |
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April 19th, 2007, 05:12 PM
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#4 |
Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 346
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OK, I got the Ruger apart and this is what I found.
There was a tremendous amount of powder / lube fouling inside the first inch of cylinder base pin bore. It had glued the base pin in.
I miked the original base pin: .248"
I miked the other original base pin: .248"
Then I miked the conversion action base pin: .249"
Then I checked the forcing cone. It has a ridge in it just as the rifling starts. It looks as if the cutting tool had a step in it.
I can't tell the angle, but it looks shallow.
So now what?
Joe |
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April 20th, 2007, 07:16 AM
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#5 |
Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Chardon, Ohio, USA.
Posts: 409
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Joe, you know by now I am a FIRM believer of the "KISS" principle........keeping things simple, easy, cheap??
I'd open up (clean really) the forcing cone and use gun grease on the pin...............
If you were over here now, we could have been "done" already..........
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April 20th, 2007, 10:27 AM
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#6 |
Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 346
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Dan,
If I was within driving distance I'd be there muy pronto.
I put the conversion base pin in it, and went to the range again today. Shot some more, actually much more than Wednesday. And although it's stiff to pull out, the base pin is not "stuck" in the cylinder. Strange how a thousandths of an inch can make a difference.
So I'll have to either drive to your house or order a forcing cone chamfering tool from Brownells. They'd both probably cost the same, but a road trip would be much funner.
Joe
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