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.44 carbine sling stud installation

This is a discussion on .44 carbine sling stud installation within the Gunsmithing forums, part of the Firearm Forum category; Hi, I have a Ruger .44 Magnum carbine from 1963 and I'd like to install studs on the stock for a sling. I already have ...


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Old January 18th, 2009, 01:26 PM   #1
 
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.44 carbine sling stud installation

Hi, I have a Ruger .44 Magnum carbine from 1963 and I'd like to install studs on the stock for a sling. I already have the proper studs, but I remember years ago reading somewhere about being sure to go about this a very specific way. I guess if you don't do this with exactly the right drillbits, the stock could easily crack. I tried a search on here, but couldn't find it. Anyone done this or know how to go about it?

Thanks,

Jim



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Old January 19th, 2009, 01:59 PM   #2
 
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VFRpilotJim, Brownell's has just the ticket for swivel stud installation. Uncle Mike's Swivel Drills # 593-255-202AB. They come as a set for front & back stud installation. I have used this set for well over 30 years and it does a very good job. Remove the barreled action from the stock and "locate" where you want the studs to be. Make sure they are not too close to the stock ends to prevent "splitting" of the stock if it is dropped/bumped after they are installed. I recommend 4" from the buttplate end and 2" to 3" in back of the front barrel band. Use a Caliper to locate the "exact" centers of the stock and use an automatic center punch to locate hole placement. Set the stock up on a drill press table if you have one to get your "holes" exactly "vertical" to the stock center line. This is essential for a nice clean professional look! The small part of the drill shaft is to drill the hole for the "threaded" shaft of the stud and the counter bore portion of the drill is to "countersink" the stock for the stud "shoulder" and/or white line spacer washer. You will want to "counterbore" the "inside" of the front stud hole deep enough for the nut to be below the surface of the stock wood so as not to interfere with the barrel. If the front screw does stick out too far, simply dress it down on a grinder/sander or cut off a portion of it. When you order the drill set, ask Brownell's for any written instructions they might supply with the drills. At one time, I believe they used to include these instructions. Hope this gets you started on this project......................Dick
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Old January 22nd, 2009, 01:03 PM   #3
 
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VFR, Let me add a few notes to my above post. Once you obtain the Uncle Mike's drills, you should have no problem installing your swivel studs. It's really pretty easy. Make sure when you set up the stock on the drill press, your drill "points" on the stock are exactly 90 degrees to the chucked drill in order to drill "straight" in the stock and "not" at an angle! If you drill at an angle, then the counterbore is also going to be at an angle and the stud will be "canted" in the stock! My second point is to apply a little "gun grease" to the "rear" (screw thread) stud when screwing it into the stock. That helps it on it's way and lessens the chance of splitting the wood if the stock wood happens to be a little harder than usual. This is one of the few areas I ever use grease when doing a gunsmithing task. Another good "idea" would be to practice with the drilling on a piece of scrap pine before tackling your gun. Let us know how it works out...................Dick
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Old January 22nd, 2009, 04:18 PM   #4
 
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Thanks a million, Dick. This is exactly the information I needed. I will be ordering the drill set shortly and I'll definitely practice this first. Fortunately I have a ton of time to deal with, as my only deadline is shortly before next deer season in November!

Thanks again!

Jim
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