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Cleaning ROA

This is a discussion on Cleaning ROA within the Black Powder forums, part of the Firearm Forum category; I have a question on cleaning the ROA after firings it necessary to completely disassemble it in order to clean or just remove cylinder grips ...


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Old November 5th, 2016, 10:34 AM   #1
 
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Cleaning ROA

I have a question on cleaning the ROA after firings it necessary to completely disassemble it in order to clean or just remove cylinder grips and clean from there.



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Old November 5th, 2016, 12:18 PM   #2
 
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You can get by with just cleaning the cylinder and barrel. Remove the nipples for sure, and clean all the threads thoroughly. I cheat and use my heated ultrasonic cleaner after getting the heavy crud out with a soluble oil cleaning mix, sort of like "Moose Milk". I put the parts in the kitchen oven to dry at about 200 for a half hour or so.

Unless I've been really blasting away, I don't even bother with taking the grip frame off; just squirt some anti rust and blow it out. If I have shot an awful lot, I'll remove the grip frame, scrub out the hammer channel and frame interior, and blow out any crud with compressed air. Squirt in some rust preventive, blow out any excess and reassemble.

Use some anti-seize on the nipple threads and cylinder threads. It will make it much easier to remove them next time.
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Old November 5th, 2016, 12:37 PM   #3
 
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I have had success...with just removing the wood grips....cylinder out...and wearing gloves....blast the frame with extremely hot water....till it bleeds clear....a brush down the barrel and cylinder...followed by oiling...has kept ROA rust free since 1974.....for the blued ones.....my SS has made a trip through the dishwasher.....no soap...just hot....still looks like new

Last edited by roashooter; November 5th, 2016 at 12:39 PM.
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Old November 5th, 2016, 02:35 PM   #4
 
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Just got done shooting one of my ROAs today. Smokey fun. Now for the cleanup. I do break the gun all the way down (every part comes out). Really easy/simple to do. Clean it up with hot water first and then go at it with the Murphy Soap mix. Surprising how much gunk gets inside a ROA.
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Old November 5th, 2016, 06:25 PM   #5
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunsmither View Post
You can get by with just cleaning the cylinder and barrel. Remove the nipples for sure, and clean all the threads thoroughly. I cheat and use my heated ultrasonic cleaner after getting the heavy crud out with a soluble oil cleaning mix, sort of like "Moose Milk". I put the parts in the kitchen oven to dry at about 200 for a half hour or so.

Unless I've been really blasting away, I don't even bother with taking the grip frame off; just squirt some anti rust and blow it out. If I have shot an awful lot, I'll remove the grip frame, scrub out the hammer channel and frame interior, and blow out any crud with compressed air. Squirt in some rust preventive, blow out any excess and reassemble.

Use some anti-seize on the nipple threads and cylinder threads. It will make it much easier to remove them next time.
That's pretty much the way I perform my routine 'after shooting' cleaning: remove cylinder/nipples, hot water (w/ soap if needed) swabbing of cylinder/chambers and barrel, and wipe out all recessed areas of the frame. I shoot a lot of Hodgdon Triple Se7en powder, and it cleans up very easily. I've also found that greasing the pawl and cylinder bolt slots in the frame prevents a significant amount of the fouling from going in to the lockwork.

Every so often, removal of the grip frame, flushing/blowing out internal residue, and re-lubing the lockwork is done.
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Old November 6th, 2016, 04:22 AM   #6
 
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I still use hot water and dishwashing liquid to clean my black powder guns like I started in 1974. I use polmolive and I still use crico to eal the front of the cylinder to prevent chain fire.
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Old November 6th, 2016, 11:20 AM   #7
 
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...and I still use crico to eal the front of the cylinder to prevent chain fire.
Chainfires almost always result from loose fitting caps at the rear. When I seat the balls in my revolvers, they all shave a nice ring of lead, indicating a complete sealing of the chamber mouth. How is flame supposed to pass through that? Maybe if you load your chambers by just pushing the (undersize) ball in with your thumb, you'd have the possibility of a chainfire. I hardly ever use lube on the tops of the balls, and have never had a chainfire with my two C&B revolvers.
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Old November 6th, 2016, 04:57 PM   #8
 
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I hardly ever use lube on the tops of the balls
I never have used lube on the front of my ROA cylinders either. As long as the balls are big enough to shave the ring (in this case .457) when seated, you shouldn't have too. I 'think' the lube is more for keeping the bore fouling soft ... but could be wrong. I went through about 10 cylinders on Saturday, no problem, no reduction in accuracy. I just don't see the need to use the lube. I am using 777 as the powder which may make a difference. Also use cream of wheat as the filler/wad under the ball.
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