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Wad Over Ball

This is a discussion on Wad Over Ball within the Black Powder forums, part of the Firearm Forum category; Hi, I was planning on using a waxed patch or wad over the ball instead of using Crisco or grease. Lots of wads for under ...


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Old March 25th, 2016, 10:11 AM   #1
 
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Wad Over Ball

Hi,
I was planning on using a waxed patch or wad over the ball instead of using Crisco or grease. Lots of wads for under the ball but I don't see any for over the ball. Anyone know would sell these? Thanks. Tom



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Old March 25th, 2016, 11:13 AM   #2
 
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I used to use a product called "wonder wad" a waxy plug that was flexible to smash over the ball. Not messy at all.
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Old March 25th, 2016, 12:03 PM   #3
 
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Can you tell me who sells this? Thanks
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Old March 25th, 2016, 12:09 PM   #4
 
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Why over the ball?..if your using a wad under the ball...it would be redundant..
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Old March 25th, 2016, 12:31 PM   #5
 
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Try Amazon for Wonder Wads.

Over the (black) powder wads are generally a stiff, thin card circle used most often for shotgun loads to keep the powder in place. Generally a lubed and thicker soft wad is placed over the card followed by the load of shot and topped with a thin over the shot wad to keep the pellets in place. This method is also good for loading a lubed, patched round ball into a smooth bore musket or shotgun, minus any over the shot wad, to help center the ball in the barrel and improve accuracy.
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Old March 25th, 2016, 02:26 PM   #6
 
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I use silicone grease from a squeeze tube. Been doing this for over 42 years of cap n' ball revolver shooting and I've never had a chain fire! I have some wonder wads in 36 caliber I used once under the ball but old habits die hard!
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Old March 25th, 2016, 02:30 PM   #7
 
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I make my own wads with felt a mixture of oil and beeswax. I put them under the ball.
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Old March 25th, 2016, 03:06 PM   #8
 
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This is an interesting thread, and subject. Using a Uberti .44 cal SAA, the only time I got yelled at by a rangemaster 40 years ago was when my gun chain fired 3 rounds using grease over the ball. No idea how the fire leaked through the grease to the other cylinders. I walked away glad, and wondering why, the bottom cylinder did not fire and blow up the gun and my hand. I stopped using the cap and ball after that, and bought another Uberti repro chambered for .357 Mag. Still have the cap and ball, just don't use it.

Obviously my methods were somehow in error in the chain fire incident, but 40 years later I don't care. Lots of other guns to use without the danger of blowing your hand off. The other obvious signal: if you fire and no bang happens, don't cock and fire again without further investigation!.

Last edited by Boulder Creek Shooter; March 25th, 2016 at 03:28 PM.
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Old March 25th, 2016, 05:12 PM   #9
 
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Nice to see people shooting black powderwonder wads arre great.
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Old March 25th, 2016, 05:18 PM   #10
 
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Cream of Wheat works wonders 'under' the ball for me. Nothing over the ball.
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Old March 26th, 2016, 06:22 AM   #11
 
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? Will a wad even stay on when seated in front of ball ????

Been shootin" BP revolvers for quite a few years, never have had a chainfire, and I always use grease to lube and seal the cylinder front. Trouble is, it all mostly blows away after the first shot or two. I use the yellow "goob in a tube" for lube. Perhaps some other lube hangs in there better that I am unaware of?

So I have to wonder if the Wonder Wads would stay put in front of the ball?

I've tried the WW's under the ball, and they worked fine, but the price of them now days is kind of off putting.

With a tight fitting, shaved ball, I can't see how a chain fire could be caused by flames, or sparks entering from the front. Me thinks the cause has to be at the back end somehow. Perhaps oversized, slightly loose caps allowing sparks, or flames getting in from the cap that fired?

Capping loaded cylinders is always a bit scary to me. Pushing down on those little pieces of lightning is a bit hairy. I use a capper, then a popsicle stick to make sure they are down all the way, always keeping the gun pointed downrange, just in case.
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Old April 6th, 2016, 03:30 PM   #12
 
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[QUOTE=Boulder Creek Shooter;1923344]This is an interesting thread, and subject. Using a Uberti .44 cal SAA, the only time I got yelled at by a rangemaster 40 years ago was when my gun chain fired 3 rounds using grease over the ball. No idea how the fire leaked through the grease to the other cylinders. QUOTE]

You can't get a chainfire through the front of the chambers unless you are using under-sized balls or have a bad defect in one of the chambers.

If you are shaving a ring of lead off the ball due to it being a little larger than the chamber when you force it in, there is no space for a spark to get past the lead you've now swaged against the chamber walls.

What's more common is a chainfire from the back of the chamber, due to the caps being too large for the nipples. A spark can get to the adjoining cap and set it off.

If you need #10 caps, you can make #11 caps stay on the nipples just fine by squeezing them out of round with your fingers before putting them on.

THAT is a good way to have a chainfire, because the cap is not only already a little too large all the way around, but in squeezing it you have made two even larger gaps for a spark to penetrate.

The need to put grease or wads over the ball to prevent chainfire actually happens so seldom as to almost be urban legend. It comes into play only if you have a defective chamber or defective shooter, who doesn't recognize a ball that loads in too easily..

Conversely, a whole handful of any kind of grease over the ball will do nothing to prevent a chainfire if it's being caused by a spark getting to a cap. If you're putting Crisco, etc. over the balls, you might want to stop and look at the mouth of the chamber right next to one you've just fired. It will make you wonder how much that Crisco is really sealing off anything. It will still be helping with fouling, because very little is actually required for that.

Put a cap on an unloaded chamber and fire it in the dark, or near darkness sometime and see what kind of little fireworks show each one puts on around the back of the cylinder.

BTW, I have two Piettas, an 1860 Avenging Angel and an 1858 Remington, and #11 CCI caps fit so loosely that they fall right off the nipples if I turn the muzzle up and make the smallest movement. When they say #10 caps, they are serious about it.

I corrected that by investing in SlixShot nipples, which SAY they require #10 Remington caps, but #11 CCI seems to fit just fine.

That's another thing you'll find... not everyone's definition of "#10" is the same.

Remington #10 caps are not the same size as CCI, nor RWS, and probably anyone else who makes caps. It can be frustrating.

Slixshot nipples can be found at cowboybullets.com, and I seem to recall that they cost $36 in 2016, though I can't remember whether that included shipping or not.

Most good stainless replacement nipples are about that same price, and if you are having a hard time getting #10 caps, shopping around for nipples that take #11 is not a bad thought.

Just be sure to get nipples for your particular brand of gun. Pietta, Uberti, Ruger, etc. could not, of course, use the same thread pitch/size as any other brand... THAT would be too convenient for purchasers! <Dripping Sarcasm>

Last edited by Jugband; April 6th, 2016 at 03:39 PM.
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Old April 6th, 2016, 03:48 PM   #13
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunsmither View Post

Capping loaded cylinders is always a bit scary to me. Pushing down on those little pieces of lightning is a bit hairy. I use a capper, then a popsicle stick to make sure they are down all the way, always keeping the gun pointed downrange, just in case.
Yeah and much is made about the ease of reloading 1858 Remingtons by carrying spare loaded cylinders, since the switch out so quick and easy.

But each cylinder comes with a caution to be sure it's not capped before inserting in the gun, and also not to even carry spare cylinders around with caps already on.

I'm sure a lot of that is legal CYA, but at the same time I can easily see problems with banging caps against the frame, etc. while putting the cylinder back in the gun.

You can sure cut way down on reloading time with spare cylinders, but it still takes time to insert it, and time to cap the nipples afterwards, and I don't think you'd ever see ME trying to put one in with capped nipples.

Not every warning that covers manufacturers legally about things that have remote possibility of happening is going to be about a possibility which is all that remote.
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Old April 7th, 2016, 02:58 PM   #14
 
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I've been shooting a Stainless Old Army since I bought it in '76 and only to soften fouling do I put a dab of grease up front because the balls have to be swaged into the cylinder and leave a ring of lead to show it. Most accurate SA I've ever owned.

Last edited by roadtoad; April 7th, 2016 at 02:59 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old December 7th, 2016, 07:00 AM   #15
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The stuff Dixie Gun Works sells is called Wonder Seals to go over a loaded chamber. It is expensive, $12.95 per 100, last time I checked. I like the bees wax idea to make your own better if you want to use these. They are less messy than grease over the chamber.
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