Marta2000

I picked up some .38 special lead round nose today. After reviewing my records I realized I have never shot lead round nose and now I have a few easy questions:

1. How much dirtier is a non jacketed round?
2. Are there any considerations I should know when shooting this thru either of my GP100's?

Thanks!

bearcatter

I don't know of any special considerations. Your bore will pick up more lead than with jacketed ammo, new bores especially. Just means a couple more minutes work when you clean the gun.

A few jacketed rounds at the end of the session will help remove some of the lead for you.

Jack Straw

Properly cast lead bullets will work great in your GP100. The important thing is to load them to moderate velocities. If your LRN's are the normal 158 gr variety keep your muzzle velocity around 800-850 f.p.s. and they should be just fine with no undue leading.

Powder charges for cast lead bullets generally are a smidge (that's a highly technical term) lighter than for the same weight bullet in a jacketed variety.

If most of your shooting is at such moderate velocity as above lead bullets probably make more sense than jacketed when you consider the cost difference.

bhefley59

Check your barrel for leading , the hotter the round the more lead will likely be in the rifling's. I shoot some lead , and after 100 rounds I can see a little build up . But from experience I shoot a few jacketed rounds after I'm done with the lead and it helps clean out the lead and easier to clean .

blackvoid

Exactly what both of those guys just said.
Lead bullets cost at least 50% less than jacketed bullets. They will cause just a little more fouling, which is easier to remove than copper jacket fouling. Keep your velocity low, and tend toward a larger diameter if you get a choice (helps prevent lead fouling, and improves accuracy). I just shot 100 lead bullets (handloads) today and didn't need any special solvent to clean the barrel in my GP100.

Marta2000

Thanks for the information!

Surf

I reload using the Speer #13 manual, just about every load listed using a cast lead bullet is well below the 1200 FPS ballistics. I believe you'll find most leading ammo manufacturers that market LRN ammo also load them to moderate velocities to avoid lead fouling problems.

I reload and shoot lead in all my guns, never had a problem with any of them, semi-auto or revolver......

alive

Dirty bore.. more money...dirty bore.. more money.

I go with dirty bore all the time.

Also, if you handload you can always get MBC bullets that offer different hardness... I loaded semi hot .357's and they shot great in my vaquero with no noticable leading.

firescout

I think the OP was referring to factory (swaged bullet?) .38 Spl LRN loads.

Marta2000

Yes I was, that being said the answers related to reloading were informative. One question for Firescout. I am not familiar with term "swaged bullet", is it a slang form of factory bullet?

bwinters

I use lead round nose at no more than 950 fps

Redleg

Good tip. Thanks.

Iowegan

Marta2000, Cast lead bullets are made by melting lead (alloy) then pouring it into molds. Swaged lead bullets use a totally different process. The lead is formed into a "wire" about the same diameter as the finished bullet. The machine cuts the wire to a precise length slug (exact bullet weight) then the slug is put into a punch press where it is pressure formed into the finished product. This method is more expensive but produces very uniform weight and diameter bullets. Cast bullets often have air bubbles or voids inside but swaged bullets never do because they are not melted. Swaged bullets are typically softer than cast ... about BHN 10 on the Brinell Hardness scale (BHN 5 is pure lead). Most name brand cast bullets are BHN 20~24 ... way too hard for light target loads whereas swaged lead bullets are just about the perfect hardness for target loads.