Bunk40

In revolvers such as .38’s .45’s, etc., is there a lot greater risk of forcing cone and barrel leading if you shoot round nose lead bullet ammo rather than FMJ or TMJ ammo? If there is a lot more leading, why is this? I don’t see a problem with .22’s with plain lead bullets versus copper-washed bullets and the bullet velocities are similar (even somewhat lower) than, say, those of a .38.

pgeobc

There are so many reasons for revolvers to lead. I doubt that there is enough room here to do the topic justice. However, one of your basic questions can be answered by stating that large caliber revolvers lead because the pressures and velocitis can allow for it.

The two most common causes are that the lead bullets do not completely fill the cylinder throats (they are too small) and that the barrel has been screwed on too tightly and there is a restriction in the bore where it goes through the frame.

Iowegan

Bunk40, Check out this reference document in the forum library. It will likely answer your questions. See: http://rugerforum.net/library/19869-...revolvers.html

laidlerj

Short answer: Yep.

Longer answer: Jacketed ammunition won't lead the barrel (or, at least, not nearly as much) because the jacket material (a copper alloy) is in contact with the barrel. Being harder than even the hardest cast lead bullet, the jacket material doesn't rub off as much as lead would at the same velocity.

Also, since the jacket material isn't lead, the part that does rub off onto the barrel can't be described as "leading" - it's usually called "copper fouling".

Personally, I like dealing with copper fouling a lot more than I like having to deal with leading, since I can use an ammonia-containing solvent to chemically dissolve off the copper (technically, it's actually chelation, but why split hairs). Leading requires time and effort with a bore brush - like the half-hour I spent getting lead out of my .44 Magnum Blackhawk this afternoon.

Lucky you! I get about the same amount of leading in my .22 LR revolvers - sometimes even more. And the copper-washed bullets aren't as good at preventing leading as real jacketed bullets (which aren't loaded in any .22 LR I'm aware of). Since I don't see as much leading in my .22 LR semi-autos, I assume that it has something to do with the cylinder gap and/or the forcing cone. Read the selection recommended above by Iowegan to learn more.


Happy shooting!


Jim

Nick0410

What gun is it? My SP101 has a very rough forcing cone with ridges in it, it needs to go back. Its been fine with a few thousand FMJs and plated, but lead will be sure to lead...

KJS

I still have to do more work to remove the lead mine located toward the rear of the barrel on my GP100. I've already scrubbed it far more than ever before and the mess still isn't fully cleaned up. I fired 100 Prvi Partizen (sp?) .38 Special LRN rounds through it and it was a horrific mess.

Pressure & velocity don't seem to explain it in my case. Isn't .38 Spl about as low as velocities & pressures go? At 750 ft/sec .38 Spl makes almost anything else look fast by comparison, such as high velocity .22LR that will exit a handgun around 1,000 ft/sec.

I think that's likely the problem I had. Most of the rounds keyholed, which seems to be what would be expected from a bullet that's too small.

I should note that I bought that PPU .38 LRN from SGammo and Sam was really great about taking it back. Not only do they send their ammo really fast, Sam personally replies to e-mails with stunning speed. Seeing how well Sam treated me, I simply had to give him a plug. He really loves his job and makes sure customers are happy. Two thumbs up for SGammo.

KJS

My MKIII always has the most pristine barrel I've ever seen. A thousand rounds can go through it and it still shines like a mirror. If not for a few specs of powder one would be hard pressed to tell it had even been fired by looking at the bore.

My S&W 617 firing the same ammo make much more of a mess. It's not as bad since it came back from S&W where they cut the forcing cone, but it's still spitting some lead -- leaving a ridge of lead on the top strap and leaving lead in areas in front of the cylinder. Makes me doubt I'll ever buy another .22 revolver.

And I'll definitely be reading Iowegan's recommendation as I know it has to be good if he suggests it.